Fixing a slow leak in copper.

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ctetrick

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I'm trying to work out if I can fix something myself, or need to hire someone.

Our home uses 1/2 in copper. I fixed a pinhole leak, but found a very slow leak that I tried to fix with epoxy, but probably made it harder to fix.

here's a link to images - https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjJXWugzjBixy3B19

On the left of the first pic is a cold water line that has another line attached to it (on the right).
It is the right line that leaks (very slowly). I think that the attached line goes over to the hookup to the toilet to the right in the pic.

Because the leak was too low to solder, I tried the epoxy, but it didn't work. I am thinking I could cut the attached line, add an 90 deg elbow, and run a line over to the toilet hook up with another 90.

I don't think the line in the slab goes to anything else. There is a tub/show to the far right. The water lines come from the other end of the house in the direction you're looking, so I think this is the last stop.

Does that seem like a reasonable fix?
 

Reach4

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Because the leak was too low to solder, I tried the epoxy, but it didn't work.
Is the blue stuff epoxy?

Where was the leak, middle of the epoxy on the right pipe of the pair?
 

Terry

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I've never tried to fix a leak with epoxy. Normally I either heat and remove the fitting or cut out pipe and solder it back up with couplings and fittings.
It's not going to be a real easy job, but it does look doable. The trick will be to get a round section of pipe that solders well with the new fittings.
Does that line run to the toilet? Maybe. You can try blowing through it, or maybe use a vacuum to check it. Most slabs like that keep all of the fittings above grade.
 

ctetrick

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There is NO SUCH THING as a line "too low to solder". That is the ONLY way to repair it properly AND permanently.
Yes, I know soldering is the only right way. The problem is that there is a lot of wood very close. Not easy to get a torch in that space.
 

ctetrick

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I've never tried to fix a leak with epoxy. Normally I either heat and remove the fitting or cut out pipe and solder it back up with couplings and fittings.
It's not going to be a real easy job, but it does look doable. The trick will be to get a round section of pipe that solders well with the new fittings.
Does that line run to the toilet? Maybe. You can try blowing through it, or maybe use a vacuum to check it. Most slabs like that keep all of the fittings above grade.
Thanks Terry. I think 1/2 copper will work fine. I'd have to drill through the 2x4s to run it through. The biggest trick it to make sure I'm right that the line only goes to one place.
 

K-Man

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Do you have any movement in the vertical? Or cut it out and use slip (repair) couplings?
Can you sweat in a new tee and run the new toilet supply horizontal w/a new sweat tee 0r sharkbite. At least reuse the old tee and run it horiz. It Looks close to the face of the stud that you notch it and have a better chance of lining up?
 

K-Man

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MP - LOL!!! I hope he still isn't working on it.
I don't know why I clicked on that thread -- I didn't notice the date, and I thought it was current the way it was showed up. I have to get more careful and used to this new forum for me.
So I wonder what the fix was? Would be nice to know.
 
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