Closet Flange Extension Kit Question

[Leaky1]

Over a decade ago I installed a BruCo Closet flange extension kit to raise the flange due to a tile installation. The bathroom has been used very little and we are putting it back in regular service with a new Toto Drake II toilet.


The original kit was installed with the first flange sealed to the subfloor and the subsequent flange installed without sealant per the instructions. Since the first flange is in excellent condition I decided to buy another kit to replace the second flange which was coated in wax.


I checked with the manufacturer and was told that plumbers have been sealing the second or third flanges with sealant even though it is not required. The manufacture also recommended that I use three flanges, which will bring the stacked flanges about a quarter inch above the floor.


Should I stack the flanges so they are one quarter inch above the floor or keep the stacked flanges flush with the floor? The flanges have lips and are supposed to be self-sealing. I could use the supplied sealant for good measure. The attached photo shows two flanges installed that are flush with the tile surface.


Thank you.

 

[Leaky1]

I decided to give a pull and the remaining two flange spacers came out. Looks like it takes three to get flush with the floor and four to be approximately one quarter inch proud.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

I've used something like this before. I'm not a fan of the spacers.

 

[Reach4]

If the hole is 4 inch, the Genova Products 75158S Universal Closet Flange with Stainless Steel Ring, 4"
like the Pushtite but has big gasket with stainless ring.

 

[dsc3507]

When stacking the spacers I would put a liberal coating of silicone sealant (clear, white) between each layer. It is desirable for the new flange to set on the floor making its top edge about 1/4" above floor level. If you put washers and nuts on the top of the flange bolts that come out of the old flange it will secure them so they won't spin and also give better support. Then put a washer and nut on the top of the new flange or extensions. This makes a solid connection. Maybe not exactly what you are doing but here is what did in a similar situation where the old flange was 1 1/4" low -

http://crompton.com/Installing an Oatey PVC flange extender.pdf

 

[Leaky1]

Thank you everyone for responding. The pipe is 4 inches in dia.


The closet flange extensions are self sealing. There is a lip on the bottom of each flange. If these were just flat spacers I would be concerned too. I am thinking of attaching four of them to a scrap piece of plywood with screws and GE Silicone 2+ between each flange and let it cure overnight. Then I will test fit. I don’t know if the holes in the flanges line up with the flange in the floor for securement with screws. Is it ok for me to drill holes in the plastic floor flange so they mate up with the flanges stacked above?


What is the best way to remove wax from the flange against the floor? Is there a solvent that removes wax, but is not detrimental to the plastic flange in the floor?

 

[Leaky1]

When stacking the spacers I would put a liberal coating of silicone sealant (clear, white) between each layer. It is desirable for the new flange to set on the floor making its top edge about 1/4" above floor level. If you put washers and nuts on the top of the flange bolts that come out of the old flange it will secure them so they won't spin and also give better support. Then put a washer and nut on the top of the new flange or extensions. This makes a solid connection. Maybe not exactly what you are doing but here is what did in a similar situation where the old flange was 1 1/4" low -

http://crompton.com/Installing an Oatey PVC flange extender.pdf

Nice write up. Thank you.

 

[Reach4]

What is the best way to remove wax from the flange against the floor? Is there a solvent that removes wax, but is not detrimental to the plastic flange in the floor?

No solvent that I know of can do it. Putty knife is good.

 

[Leaky1]

No solvent that I know of can do it. Putty knife is good.

We found that mineral spirits will remove the wax completely.

 

[Leaky1]

I pulled all the spacers and I found this plastic flange that appears to be glued on and secured with 8 hex head screws to the subfloor. It is black on top and the short lip that extends down in to the 4 inch pipe is an off white color. I tried scraping the top and it appears to be black plastic.

 

[Terry]

What you have is the remnants of the white plastic test cap that has been knocked out. If I'm inserting a flange with extension, I often take a knife blade and trim that out.
If I'm stacking two wax rings I leave it.

 

[Leaky1]

Terry,


Thank you. It sounds like the existing flange is serviceable. I was considering opening the ceiling below and replacing everything.


I visited several plumbing supply stores and hardware stores and could not find what you recommended. Looks like I will go with the BruCo flange spacers.


I put three of the Bruco spacers together with silicon sealant and let it set up over night. The next day I removed the screws securing them to a piece of plywood and the force of the self-sealing horns separated them in about a half hour. The silicon sealant peeled right off. I will call the manufacturer to see if it is acceptable to stack 4 spacers since I need to be one quarter inch off the tile surface.


Can you recommend a good sealant for this sealing the flange spacers?

 

[Treeman]

BruCo has those spacers in 1/2" thickness also, which would allow you to use only two spacers. https://www.brucoproduct.com/product-catalog/Closet-Flange-Extensions-c22500028

With the overlapping inside lip, that looks like the best design I have ever seen. The only way it could really leak is if the sewer line backed up full of water all the way to the toilet.

I would contact the company and ask what type of plastic it is and what is the best caulk. Some plastics are difficult, some have an oily surface residue... ask, and they should give you a good answer. Maybe just use toilet wax between the pieces?

 

[Terry]

I would place one regular wax ring down and the drop a wax ring with horn down over that.
I have never been able to get spacers to work the way you are trying to do it. I have used them under the flange to left the flange up, but I don't place them on top.

 

[Leaky1]

BruCo has those spacers in 1/2" thickness also, which would allow you to use only two spacers. https://www.brucoproduct.com/product-catalog/Closet-Flange-Extensions-c22500028

With the overlapping inside lip, that looks like the best design I have ever seen. The only way it could really leak is if the sewer line backed up full of water all the way to the toilet.

I would contact the company and ask what type of plastic it is and what is the best caulk. Some plastics are difficult, some have an oily surface residue... ask, and they should give you a good answer. Maybe just use toilet wax between the pieces?

I talked with the owner of Bruco and he recommended I use the 1/4" spacers with the self-sealing lips. He confirmed it is acceptable to stack 4 of their 1/4" flange spacers. He cautioned me about using the 1/2" flange spacers since they do not incorporate the self-sealing feature.

 

[Leaky1]

I would place one regular wax ring down and the drop a wax ring with horn down over that.
I have never been able to get spacers to work the way you are trying to do it. I have used them under the flange to left the flange up, but I don't place them on top.

It sounds like you are recommending I drop down to a 3" twist on flange and stack spacers under it. Currently I have a 4" pipe and 4" flange.

 

[Terry]

They also make those in 4". I carry both the 3" and the 4" on the trucks.

 

[Milesmoony]

When stacking the spacers I would put a liberal coating of silicone sealant (clear, white) between each layer. It is desirable for the new flange to set on the floor making its top edge about 1/4" above floor level. If you put washers and nuts on the top of the flange bolts that come out of the old flange it will secure them so they won't spin and also give better support. Then put a washer and nut on the top of the new flange or extensions. This makes a solid connection. Maybe not exactly what you are doing but here is what did in a similar situation where the old flange was 1 1/4" low -

http://crompton.com/Installing an Oatey PVC flange extender.pdf

So I have basically the exact same situation you described in your write up. My question is how did you hook the flange bolts into the cast iron if the new floor was already down?