Rear outlet toilet flange. any ideas?

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JHorack

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so looks like the "stub out" is actually an elbow end and not a pipe. I need to get to flange in.. as closet to the wall as possible to avoid having to bring out the back area of the toilet wall (in image). is there a Male flange or some something would go into the elbow instead of having to attach over a pipe? (sorry the pictures rotated for some reason )

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JohnjH2o1

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You need a street closet flange. Try home depot be sure you fasten the flange to the wall.

toilet-flanges-blue-ring.jpg


This flange will be too deep for a wall mount.
Terry Love
 
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JHorack

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I think those are often called spigot closet flanges.


I believe that is meant to go into a schedule 40 pipe rather than into a hub.
yup . it was labeled spigot end. picked one up. worked like a charm. thank you so much. saved me a ton of aggravation.
 

Kathleen O'Brien

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Could you use a thing called a "p-trap connector" instead? If so, would there still be a flange? I'm doing new construction and am having trouble finding a clear picture of how to do this install, beginning with the rough plumbing.
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Tuttles Revenge

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Could you use a thing called a "p-trap connector" instead? If so, would there still be a flange? I'm doing new construction and am having trouble finding a clear picture of how to do this install, beginning with the rough plumbing.
View attachment 74485

Are you planning to install a Floor mounted Rear discharge toilet? There is a bit of planning that needs to be done prior so that you end up with the drain at the right height above the finished floor and the correct depth in the wall.
 

Kathleen O'Brien

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Yes. It's a Gerber UF21374, floor-mounted. I have the finished floor in place now and can get the drain to the correct height; however, I've never roughed-in a toilet--let alone a rear-outlet one--and I'm having trouble finding information about depth, as well as which pieces (flange, neoprene ring...) make the connection. I imagine I'm not hitting on the exact question the internet needs. The toilet is built such that the outlet will be right up against the wall.
 

Terry

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It's a pretty basic installation. You will need a closet flange at the wall. The one I pictured above, but the PVC version.
You will need closet bolts, and a neoprene washer.
They also make a reinforced wax ring for wall installation, but it has to say that on the box. And most will have no idea what you're asking about. That's why the Gerber instructions don't even mention that option.

gerber-rear-outlet-install-01.jpg


Pick up the TKO flange and see how it fits at the back of the bowl. There will be a recess at the back that it fits into.

How about a picture of the back of the bowl that you have?

proflo-back-outlet-wax-terrylove-01.jpg


yorkville-3-1.jpg


yorkville-5-1.jpg


zurn-neo-seal.jpg


The Gerber wall hung that uses the carrier.
 
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Kathleen O'Brien

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Now I think I have all the pieces/parts on hand. (I live in the middle of nowhere and then some, so everything takes a while.)
Just to confirm: I set the flange up so that the BACK of the flange sits on top of the drywall, correct? I ask because, with the way the toilet is built, it leaves about 5/16" of space (the depth of the flange) between the toilet and the wall--and that's withOUT the neoprene ring. Assuming the gasket won't cinch down to nothing, I guesstimate I'll have 1/2" or so between the drywall and the toilet; that doesn't feel normal; is it?
 

Tuttles Revenge

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I would mock it up first if there is a question about the depth that the flange needs to project from the wall. Install bolts on the flange with nuts and washers then place the foam gasket on the toilet, it will hold itself there. Then place the flange with the bolts through the holes until it makes contact. That is the absolute minimum that the flange can project from the wall. Use a straight edge across the back of the toilet to measure that distance from the plane of the back of the toilet to the plane of the face of the flange. Then I would suggest that the flange can be at least 1/4 inch further into the room to give the gasket some squish.
 
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