New toilet install old plumbing

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dsc3507

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I am replacing an old toilet in a 1950's home. Cast iron flange in good shape but slightly off level and about 1 1/4 inches below floor level. I have been told many things to do including just double or triple up wax. I got the Oatey set-right extender kit and it looked like a good method and had good reviews. It says it is good for just about any type of flange including cast iron BUT how do I screw this to cast iron? I called Oatey Tech support and they said they were self tapping screws! Good luck going through cast iron. Should I drill the cast iron?

So I am open for suggestions. I suspect I will get many different ones. Hopefully I can make this work. I like to do things right, not half ass so whatever it takes minus replacing the original flange

Photos - http://www.crompton.com/download/DSC03824.JPG
http://www.crompton.com/download/DSC03825.JPG
http://www.crompton.com/download/DSC03826.JPG
 

Reach4

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Take a look at https://www.danco.com/product/hydroseat-flange-repair/

Danco HydroSeat
next-by-danco-toilet-flanges-10672x-64_145.jpg

Two or so wax rings below. One above.
 
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dsc3507

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I was thinking about this one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Oatey-PVC-Twist-n-Set-Open-Flange-436512/100062268

It would allow me to adjust height. The only concern I have is screwing it down. I don't think I have any substantial floor to screw to so it would have to screw to the existing cast iron flange. This is my problem with any of the extenders. What and how to screw it down. One idea I have is to use the existing cast iron flange (1 1/4" below floor and not level) and long 3 1/2" bolts screwed tight to the cast iron flange with washers and stainless nuts. Then position this flange above with nut and washers both below and above securing it that way. Then I can foam underneath. I would then have the new flange resting on the floor and us a simple wax seal. Comments?

Video on this method although I would probably not do it exactly this way.


Also comments on this video which uses a similar method. The was-less seal used had some good and bad reviews. Apparently it can absorb water?

 

Reach4

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You pictures all hide the area where you propose to insert a flange. That PVC compression flange wants pretty much a 4.0 inch pipe to insert into. Maybe it could work well. I would not count on it. How about Genova 75150?

For each of those you would have to drill through ceramic or porcelain AND maybe cast iron. The Danco Hydroseat would still need drilling the tile. Porcelain is very hard to drill.
 

dsc3507

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The plug shown inserted in the old flange in the photos - first message - is 4 " The Oatey twist flange allows raising and leveling the old flange.
 

Jadnashua

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I'd consider removing the old flange, use a banded coupler and a stub of 4" pvc (assuming pvc is allowed where you live), and then gluing a new pvc flange with a SS ring on it at the proper height. Assuming it is a wooden subfloor, I'd also want to install a patch in there to have enough material to then screw the flange down. If it's a slab, it gets a little tougher, but still possible. Hard to tell what's possible without being there to examine things better.
 

Reach4

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The plug shown inserted in the old flange in the photos - first message - is 4 "

Yes. 100 mm is 3.937 inches. So I guess we can presume there is hole almost 4 inches hidden by the red plug.
 

dsc3507

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Yes. The plug is slightly smaller than 4" - you turn the screw to tighten. This is meant for pressure testing but I prefer it for long term closure of a flange over rags! The Oatey twist and seal flange extension I mentioned works similarly sealing against the inside of the 4 inch pipe.
 
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