Toilet overflow tube too tall

[duclad]

A plummer who was replacing the wax ring on one of my toilets (I'm old and can no longer safely lift a toilet by myself) told me the overflow tube (replaced apparently by previous owner) is too tall. I do see that the top of the overflow tube is much higher than in my other toilet and is above the level of the handle, raising the possibility that if the fill valve failed to shut off when it should the water could rise to the point where it would leak out the handle before it could go down the overflow tube. I asked him if I could just cut the overflow tube to shorten it. He said I could try but he didn't think I could get at it and also said that doing that could ruin the seal at the flush valve. Did I mention he was trying to sell the old man a new flush valve and fill valve assembly even though both the fill and flush valves are currently working fine?
Anyway, what do you guys who know much more about this than me think - is it okay to shorten the overflow tube without removing it? If so, I'm thinking a dremel with a cutting wheel would be small enough to get in there, but are there better methods? Also, if I'm holding the overflow tube at the base to support it while cutting, is it still risky that the vibration or whatever will ruin the seal? Obviously, I'm no expert on this so I would really appreciate your advice and things to watch out for if I try this myself. Many thanks. Jim

 

[Reach4]

I am not a plumber.

I think a bare hacksaw blade, or a small hacksaw, or a coping saw with the blade rotated would be plenty quick and easy on a plastic overflow tube.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

I don't see an issue with cutting the overflow tube to the correct height after it has been installed.
There are several types a saw blades that work for that. I'm not that picky.

 

[duclad]

I don't see an issue with cutting the overflow tube to the correct height after it has been installed.
There are several types a saw blades that work for that. I'm not that picky.

That's great, thanks. I think the issue then will be being able to get at it in tight quarters. The bare hacksaw blade sounds promising given how narrow it is. Probably easier to control the cutting rate than a dremel cutting wheel. I figure I'll lightly sand afterwards and maybe put a towel or something on the floor of the tank to catch particles. Many thanks.

 

[Jadnashua]

Many hacksaw handles allow the blade to be turned 90-degrees, that can make it easier to cut in some circumstances. Same is true with a coping saw blade/handle. Regardless, you'll want a fine-toothed blade.

 

[WJcandee]

I would just Dremel the thing if you have a Dremel.

The guy was upselling you. No question about it in my mind.

 

[duclad]

Yeah, it felt like an upsell to me too. (He "offered" to replace the fill valve, flapper, and flush valve for $340. I said hard no, and then 20 minutes later he said he could do it for $250 since he was "already there" - I've done fill valves and flappers myself and there is no way I'm paying that!). Anyway, I do have a Dremel which may actually be the easiest to fit vertically. That was my first thought but he just threw some doubt in my mind when he talked about the flush seal being "delicate" or some such (no experience with flush valves). Still, I'm always up for a new tool so I'll use this as an excuse to swing by the hardware store just to check out the 90-degree suggestions, which I don't have Many thanks.

 

[Jadnashua]

You might be able to use a soldering iron and melt through. A Dremel tool with a cutter blade would likely make quick work of it. The thin plastic can sometimes be a little fragile, depends on how old it is and your water chemistry. You really only need a hole it it at the proper level...it doesn't need to be totally cut off to work. The idea is to prevent the water rising too high...a hole big enough to allow the water to flow out faster than it's coming in works.

Keep in mind that the hose at the top is what is filling the bowl.

 

[duclad]

You might be able to use a soldering iron and melt through. A Dremel tool with a cutter blade would likely make quick work of it. The thin plastic can sometimes be a little fragile, depends on how old it is and your water chemistry. You really only need a hole it it at the proper level...it doesn't need to be totally cut off to work. The idea is to prevent the water rising too high...a hole big enough to allow the water to flow out faster than it's coming in works.

Keep in mind that the hose at the top is what is filling the bowl.

Well, that is an interesting point that I hadn't considered. My soldering gun is way too large to fit I think (the toilet in question is not where I live so will have to check) but I know there are smaller, narrower soldering irons. Re your point about the fill hose...are you mentioning that to make sure if I end up cutting the overflow tube down, I make sure the fill hose is long enough to still reach it? Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Suppose you remove the tip of your soldering gun, and replace it with a piece of copper wire. Loop around the tube. Pull the trigger. The wire gets hot, and melts thru the tube as you pull sideways.

 

[duclad]

Suppose you remove the tip of your soldering gun, and replace it with a piece of copper wire. Loop around the tube. Pull the trigger. The wire gets hot, and melts thru the tube as you pull sideways.

Wow, another creative solution - you guys are amazing! I don't suppose anyone has invented an L-shaped drill bit? hah. Probably not enough of a market for that! Thanks again.

 

[Jadnashua]

There are right-angle drill motors that can get into narrower spaces.

The hose needs to be directed down the overflow tube so that it can properly refill the bowl, or the toilet won't flush right. It needs to have the bowl full at the beginning of the flush for best effect or part of the flush water just goes to refilling it rather than flushing. Whatever you do, the hose should also be held above the flood rim or it can act as a siphon for the tank. If you poke a hole in the tube rather than cutting it off entirely, you could poke it down from the top as long as it didn't go below the maximum water level. Otherwise, the hose must be held above the rim of the overflow tube. Most come with a clip to perform that task.

As long as you support the tube a bit while cutting, and use a fine-toothed blade so it doesn't catch, you should be fine. The whole flush valve assembly does come out, but that's much more work than necessary to gain easy access.

 

[duclad]

There are right-angle drill motors that can get into narrower spaces.

The hose needs to be directed down the overflow tube so that it can properly refill the bowl, or the toilet won't flush right. It needs to have the bowl full at the beginning of the flush for best effect or part of the flush water just goes to refilling it rather than flushing. Whatever you do, the hose should also be held above the flood rim or it can act as a siphon for the tank. If you poke a hole in the tube rather than cutting it off entirely, you could poke it down from the top as long as it didn't go below the maximum water level. Otherwise, the hose must be held above the rim of the overflow tube. Most come with a clip to perform that task.

As long as you support the tube a bit while cutting, and use a fine-toothed blade so it doesn't catch, you should be fine. The whole flush valve assembly does come out, but that's much more work than necessary to gain easy access.

Thank you, this is really helpful. I think I'll wind up cutting it with a fine blade of some kind while trying to stabilize it with the other hand. Just need to see what is available. Worst case I could just cut a fine tooth hacksaw blade I have to shorten it to get at it. Many thanks.

 

[Jadnashua]

Something like this comes in handy and may work out well for you.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-in-Jab-Saw-with-Plastic-Handle-48-22-0305/202525764?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202525764-_-N

 

[duclad]

Something like this comes in handy and may work out well for you.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-in-Jab-Saw-with-Plastic-Handle-48-22-0305/202525764?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202525764-_-NView attachment 55475

Yeah, this looks just like what I was envisioning, especially because it has different blade options - should have a fine-tooth option I imagine. Plus I can justify to the wife getting this as a great addition to our emergency "go" bag that I hope never to have to use (the bag, not the tool)! Home Depot, here I come (tomorrow). Thanks very, very much.

 

[duclad]

Quick update....couldn't get a dremel to quite fit at a right angle to the overflow tube so I used the suggested jag saw (a new edition to my emergency go kit!). The saw was about an inch longer than ideal for the space available but by angling it this way and that I was able to cut off a section of the overflow tube. So mission accomplished and a big thanks to all of you who made suggestions! Great board!