Sulfur Smell - City Water

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talsma

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Hey guys,

I am on a municipal water supply in Pasco county Florida. We live in a home that was built less than a year ago and we've been having some issues with stinky water (smells like rotten eggs). We called in a warranty request with the builder and they sent out a plumber who recommended sanitizing the system by adding chlorine (I guess they would cut in somewhere and dump some bleach in). The builder didn't agree with the plumber and pointed the finger at the county.... So I decided to take a sample up to the county for a Bac-T test (still waiting on the results).

There may be an issue from the supply... Maybe contaminated lines since this is a brand new neighborhood and they are constantly cutting in to add new homes? I think that would require a flush and maybe a shock treatment to the mains... But I do find it odd that it really only smells bad for maybe the first 10 seconds I run a faucet or shower head that hasn't been used in a day or so... Makes me feel like the the issues is with my plumbing...

Any thoughts?

Also, I will soon be adding a new water softener to the equation since we have some pretty hard water out here. Since I will be messing with the plumbing anyway, I was thinking about adding a few unions to the 1" CPVC water line coming into the house. My thought is I could disconnect the union and pour bleach down the pipe anytime I needed to disinfect the system (of course bypassing the softener before I do this). The go inside and run each tap (hot and cold) to draw the chlorinated water through the system.

What do you think?
 

Reach4

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I would measure the residual chlorine or chloromine in the water vs required standards.

Even if that level is acceptable, sanitizing the plumbing, including the WH makes sense. That can be done with bleach. I think that could be a one-time thing.

As to how to introduce the chlorine, you could put it into a filter housing. You could insert it into a threaded spigot. I have never done it. But thinking it thru, recirculating with a pump would make sense to me -- much as de-liming a tankless WH.

I am not a pro. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my write-up for sanitizing bottom-feeding water wells and house plumbing. One thing about sanitzing with city sewer available, it is easy to get rid of the treated water down the drain. With septic you want to minimize how much bleach hits the septic tank.

But I do find it odd that it really only smells bad for maybe the first 10 seconds I run a faucet or shower head that hasn't been used in a day or so...
That is characteristic of H2S produced in your own WH or plumbing. I saw that recently. I don't remember where that was, but if I find it again, I will follow-up.
 

talsma

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I would measure the residual chlorine or chloromine in the water vs required standards.

Even if that level is acceptable, sanitizing the plumbing, including the WH makes sense. That can be done with bleach. I think that could be a one-time thing.

As to how to introduce the chlorine, you could put it into a filter housing. You could insert it into a threaded spigot. I have never done it. But thinking it thru, recirculating with a pump would make sense to me -- much as de-liming a tankless WH.

I am not a pro. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my write-up for sanitizing bottom-feeding water wells and house plumbing. One thing about sanitzing with city sewer available, it is easy to get rid of the treated water down the drain. With septic you want to minimize how much bleach hits the septic tank.


That is characteristic of H2S produced in your own WH or plumbing. I saw that recently. I don't remember where that was, but if I find it again, I will follow-up.


I used my Taylor pool chlorine drop test kit and came up with 0 for free and combined chlorine. Wonder if I need something with more precision to the low end of the scale?

I don't have any filter housings currently so I can't add it that way, but that is a really neat idea about using an existing hose spigot as a way to introduce chlorine to the system! So this is what I am thinking... Correct me if I have it wrong.

1. Turn off supply at meter.
2. Open faucet in house to relieve pressure. Leave open.
3. Use a submersible pump (in a bucket of chlorine water) with an attached short garden hose hooked to a spigot very close to where the water enters the house.
4. Open spigot and turn on pump.
5. Turn off pump and close spigot once chlorine water has been pumped into the house.
6. Close faucet inside that you left open earlier.
7. Turn on supply at meter.
8. Flush chlorine water out of the system (cold and hot water [regular gas tank wh] through all the different faucets, showers, toilets etc.
9. Repeat as necessary ensuring you can smell chlorine during each flush.
10.Once complete flush everything until no odor can be detected.


Thinking a pump like this? https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Submersible-Thermoplastic/dp/B000X05G1A?th=1
 

WorthFlorida

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Is it both hot and cold water or just the hot water? Recently there was a post with someone having the same issue. Not sure if it ever was resolved. I’ll need to look for it.
 

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I used my Taylor pool chlorine drop test kit and came up with 0 for free and combined chlorine. Wonder if I need something with more precision to the low end of the scale?
I would talk with the local water department or company.
 

talsma

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Is it both hot and cold water or just the hot water? Recently there was a post with someone having the same issue. Not sure if it ever was resolved. I’ll need to look for it.

Actually, I've really only noticed it from the cold water supply. I smell it in our shower, but that is a mixed line.. Nothing really from the kitchen sink, but maybe that is because it gets so much use... I smell it at the bathroom sinks but I really only use cold at any of the faucets to wash my hands... Our hot water temp is pretty warm... I wonder if that has a sanitizing effect?


Thanks!
 

Reach4

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Yeah, I may go that route after I get my Bac-T results back...
The water department is responsible for delivering water that has at least a minimum level of residual disinfectant. https://www.dep.pa.gov/PublicParticipation/AdvisoryCommittees/WaterAdvisory/TAC/Documents/SDRR_Summary_June%202015.pdf

If you want to test the residual on your own, these look useful:
http://www.lamotte.com/en/drinking-water/test-strips/2963lr-g.html total chlorine strips
http://www.lamotte.com/en/water-wastewater/test-strips/2964-g.html free chlorine strips
http://www.lamotte.com/en/education/water-monitoring/3027.html tests both total and free.
LaMotte 3027-G newegg,
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/insta-test-free-total-chlorine-strips-lamotte.html



What do you think of my plan to introduce chlorine into the system?
I would think you would need to get more details into your plan. But yes, sanitizing your house plumbing makes sense, but after you make sure there are not new bugs coming in continuously. Or maybe you could sanitize twice.

So if you have envisioned the details, what did you have in mind?
 

WorthFlorida

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Since you are in a new development you could be at the end of the line and not enough water flow to keep the water disinfectant at a minimum.

A funny thing happened on the way to the funeral. About 15 years ago, Florida was having a water shortage during a drought. The powers to be, being so smart, started to issue water restrictions with fines and I got one because my timer for my irrigation well wasn’t set right. Everyone hit the brakes on water use then Palm Beach Water Utilities Department complained that there would be a short fall of income and needed a rate increase. So the water rates jumped about 50%. Guess what, water usage dropped even more but another problem arose, the water was staying in the pipes too long and the disinfectant depleted below standard. The fix? Fire hydrants were opened for hours dumping million of gallon of water back into the ground to flush the pipes.
 

talsma

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Since you are in a new development you could be at the end of the line and not enough water flow to keep the water disinfectant at a minimum.

A funny thing happened on the way to the funeral. About 15 years ago, Florida was having a water shortage during a drought. The powers to be, being so smart, started to issue water restrictions with fines and I got one because my timer for my irrigation well wasn’t set right. Everyone hit the brakes on water use then Palm Beach Water Utilities Department complained that there would be a short fall of income and needed a rate increase. So the water rates jumped about 50%. Guess what, water usage dropped even more but another problem arose, the water was staying in the pipes too long and the disinfectant depleted below standard. The fix? Fire hydrants were opened for hours dumping million of gallon of water back into the ground to flush the pipes.

Ha!

Actually I think I am near the end of the line. Was the last house on my street until about a few weeks ago when a few houses past me were completed.

Seems reasonable that is the issue.
 

talsma

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The water department is responsible for delivering water that has at least a minimum level of residual disinfectant. https://www.dep.pa.gov/PublicParticipation/AdvisoryCommittees/WaterAdvisory/TAC/Documents/SDRR_Summary_June%202015.pdf

If you want to test the residual on your own, these look useful:
http://www.lamotte.com/en/drinking-water/test-strips/2963lr-g.html total chlorine strips
http://www.lamotte.com/en/water-wastewater/test-strips/2964-g.html free chlorine strips
http://www.lamotte.com/en/education/water-monitoring/3027.html tests both total and free.
LaMotte 3027-G newegg,
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/insta-test-free-total-chlorine-strips-lamotte.html



I would think you would need to get more details into your plan. But yes, sanitizing your house plumbing makes sense, but after you make sure there are not new bugs coming in continuously. Or maybe you could sanitize twice.

So if you have envisioned the details, what did you have in mind?


Here is what I was thinking.

1. Turn off supply at meter.
2. Open faucet in house to relieve pressure. Leave open.
3. Use a submersible pump (in a bucket of chlorine water) with an attached short garden hose hooked to a spigot very close to where the water enters the house.
4. Open spigot and turn on pump.
5. Turn off pump and close spigot once chlorine water has been pumped into the house.
6. Close faucet inside that you left open earlier.
7. Turn on supply at meter.
8. Flush chlorine water out of the system (cold and hot water [regular gas tank wh] through all the different faucets, showers, toilets etc.
9. Repeat as necessary ensuring you can smell chlorine during each flush.
10.Once complete flush everything until no odor can be detected.

Was just going to do this once. If the issue is with no disinfectant at the supply, then I know I need to chase to the county down to fix the issue or else it will return.

Appreciate your help!
 

Reach4

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Here is what I was thinking.

1. Turn off supply at meter.
2. Open faucet in house to relieve pressure. Leave open.
3. Use a submersible pump (in a bucket of chlorine water) with an attached short garden hose hooked to a spigot very close to where the water enters the house.
4. Open spigot and turn on pump.
5. Turn off pump and close spigot once chlorine water has been pumped into the house.
6. Close faucet inside that you left open earlier.
7. Turn on supply at meter.
8. Flush chlorine water out of the system (cold and hot water [regular gas tank wh] through all the different faucets, showers, toilets etc.
9. Repeat as necessary ensuring you can smell chlorine during each flush.
10.Once complete flush everything until no odor can be detected.

Was just going to do this once. If the issue is with no disinfectant at the supply, then I know I need to chase to the county down to fix the issue or else it will return.

Appreciate your help!
Sounds pretty good to me. I would also bring down the pH of the circulating water to about 5.5 to make the chlorine more effective. Yes, bleach can produce chlorine gas if the solution becomes too acid, but it is unlikely that vinegar and water will get the pH low enough for that.

I would use high-range chlorine strips instead of smell, although smell is probably OK.

Also consider the water heater. That has a lot of water. Unless you pump bleach into the WH, it might take a while to get the hot water lines sufficiently chlorinated.

The pump could be a new sump pump or utility pump, that could then be reused later. A 4 inch well submersible pump would certainly do the job, but usually that would cost more.

I still would try to get the water department to do their part. I expect they would be cooperative.
 
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