Another T&P Valve Discharge question...

Users who are viewing this thread

travisg86

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
seattle
I am remodeling my condo in a older building in downtown Seattle and trying to bring my water heater up to code. Old discharge valve was not directed anywhere, and doing so is difficult because there is no way to route the discharge line outside the building. My only drains are downstairs in the kitchen, upstairs bathroom sink, and upstairs shower drain. The water heater is on the second floor adjacent wall to the shower. The shower is part of the remodeling project and will be a tile floor with a curb running the length of the bathroom. Crazy question - could I run a T&P discharge over and down to the corner of the shower (and possibly hide it with a tiled shroud over the outlet)?
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
I don't think that would pass code. Also, if it every did discharge while you were in the shower, you could get severely burned.

You could put in a floor drain when you remodel. Because of the potential for severe damage, I'd also include a leak detector alarm, and maybe something like a www.wagsvalve.com to shut the water off if it ever did discharge.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I've had some inspectors suggest running a T&P to the vent of a plumbing fixture. Perhaps piping to the vent of the shower would work. Making sure it's above the flood level would be important.
I really can't imagine a T&P daylighting to a shower pan and have it be a good idea.
 

travisg86

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
seattle
This all makes sense - thanks guys! Figured I would ask anyway :)

One option would be to route the drill a 1 inch hole in the floor and route a CVPC pipe to kitchen sink drain area. Seem reasonable?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2006.jpg
    IMG_2006.jpg
    48.7 KB · Views: 160
  • IMG_2007.jpg
    IMG_2007.jpg
    73.6 KB · Views: 159
  • Plumbing.jpg
    Plumbing.jpg
    17.3 KB · Views: 164

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
Not sure CPVC would be approved for that application...the T&P can open under two different conditions, the pressure exceeds 150psi, OR, the temp exceeds 210F. Neither of those values are within the safe range for CPVC I don't think (you should double-check).

One thing you don't want is to not be noticing that that valve is actually opening...it indicates some fault that you should be addressing. Having it discharge to a hidden point is kind of self-defeating that. The other side of this is, you don't want that leak to end up causing a lot of damage. That's why a pan with a water alarm and/or maybe something like that WAGS valve I mentioned. You'd notice that. FWIW, the WAGS valve works when the water accumulates in the pan up to about 1/2", then shuts the inlet water to the WH off, relieving the pressure, and preventing endless water pouring out. There are some other automatic shutoffs, but they all require power, which may or may not be there at the time. The WAGS valve uses the same tech that the life preservers on planes do...the water causes a small disk to dissolve, releasing the spring that shuts the valve off.
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,726
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
Where is your condo air conditioner if you have one. All AC air handlers have a condensation drain or a small pump routed to a drain. Some places code requires a drip pan for WH that must lead to a drain or the condo rules requires them to save the day so as not to damage unit below or one next to yours.

The T&P pipe you run down to the drip pan only, and about 4-6" from the pan. The pan would drain somewhere should the T&P blow or the WH develops a leak, which is more likely and it is usually continuous. A T&P discharge is usually short lived once the temperature or pressure is reduced, but it is a rare occurance. A leak is more likely.

A drip pan also allows to add a water detection alarm and use a condensation pump to discharge the water. There are water shut off valves tbat can be tied to a water detection alarm and some on the water main into the home will shut off the water.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks