Federal Pacific breaker question

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DogBytesMan

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Hoping someone can answer these questions....thank you in advance!

We moved to an old house just recently. I've done enough research here to get the picture that our Federal Pacific breaker box has to go. And it will....we are remodeling and adding onto the home, so we're going to have the electrical completely redone (box and everything) in about 6 to 9 months. For now, I am just trying to keep the necessaries going, and I am stuck on our new stove.

The stove requires a 40amp double breaker. I was lucky enough to buy an entire FP breaker box for sale on Craigslist for a good price, and it was filled with breakers. However some of the breakers fit in my box but others do not. The only 40amp double breaker that was in the box I bought does not fit into my box.

Here is a pic of the labels for my box:
Federalpacific01NEW.jpg

Federalpacific02NEW.jpg


The box I bought on Craigslist is identical to mine. The only difference is there's some sort of removable "tabs" (I call them tabs because not sure what their actual name is) that are missing from the box I bought. Here's a pic of my box and the arrow points to the "tab" -- if you look closely you can see it is scratched from me trying to insert the breaker -- as far as I can tell, my box has all the "tabs" still in place:
Federalpacific03NEW.jpg


Here is a pic of the box I bought, the arrow showing where the "tab" is gone. Almost all the "tabs" on the left side are gone:
Federalpacific04NEW.jpg


Here is a pic of the 40amp double breaker -- the arrow shows that it has some sort of protrusion on the bottom of each side -- this protrusion prevents these breakers from fitting into the box unless the "tabs" are removed:
Federalpacific05NEW.jpg


But here is a pic of a 50amp double breaker from the box I bought that does NOT have the protrusions:
Federalpacific06NEW.jpg


So, my questions are:

Why does my box still have tabs while the other box is missing many?
Is there some major difference between the breakers with the protrusions and those without?
Is there some reason I cannot remove "tabs" from my breaker box?

I feel confident installing breakers but I do not like to take chances with electricity. My gut tells me it's probably just fine to remove a couple of tabs and plug in the breakers, but my head has alarm bells going off -- so I humbly request help from you experts out there. Everything else with the breaker box and the electrical system at our place is going fine, but I just want to provide my family with a stove.

Thank you for any responses!
Brad
 

Bgard

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i think that it is a rejection feature that prevents more than 6 2-pole breakers in the panel. do the buss bars continue down past the bottom breaker that is installed?
 

DogBytesMan

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Hi bgard, thanks for replying!

I think you may be correct regarding the box I purchased -- there are 13 removed "tabs" out of 20 spots total, so that makes sense. I am still confused though why none of the "tabs" are removed from my box.

I apologize but am confused about the buss bar question....I want to say it stops after the last breaker that is installed (there are open spots above it, however), but I think that is not the answer you were looking for.

Your reply made me realize I needed to do a load calculation on the panel -- I feel stupid I have not done that yet -- so I will research that now. Thank you again!!

Please, if anyone else has any comments or advice, I am listening!

Thank you!
Brad
 

DogBytesMan

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Well, I guess now I will be admitting my electrical shortcomings.....*sigh*

Can anyone recommend a good online calculator for finding out my load calculation on my breaker box? I have the total number of amps as listed per breaker, just trying to figure out what the "safe" maximum is.

Thanks!
Brad
 

WorthFlorida

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Does the Craigslist box have any 220v breakers that will fit in your panel. You can run the stove on a 30 amp of there is one. The breaker protects the wire, not the electric range. If there is lets say a 30 or even a 35 amp breaker, the stove will work. Just that all burners and oven cannot be on at the same time. It might trip a 30 amp breaker. I would venture to guess that full amperage to the stove would not be more than 32 amps. Right now is there an outlet for the electric range in the kitchen? If so what is the breaker size?

FYI. This old house , if there is an electric range, will have a three prong outlet and all new 220v electric appliances now want a four prong plug and outlet. If you read into the installation instruction, the range will work with a three prong. There will be a strap bridging the ground and neutral at the stove connection. Your new work will have a four prong 220v outlets for the stove and dryer.
 

DogBytesMan

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Hi WorthFlorida, thanks for the info! The old stove was hard-wired in, so I ran new wire to the new stove and hard-wired it in as well. Once we get the remodel started we'll be using an electrical contractor for all the re-wiring. I will take a look and see if I have a 30 or 35 amp breaker and give it a try.....thanks!

Brad
 

Norcal01

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The first thing to consider when starting a remodel is to have the electrical contractor get rid of that FPE panel, due to the problems with them, they and Zinsco/Sylvania are the two most reviled names in electrical.
 
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