Need some help on Rough Electrical Inspection Expectations

[Marcus Waddell]

Hi all,
Project: Putting in a Sub Panel in my outdoor shed, running 40 amp service from my main box, under ground, to the shed.

I just got my permit for this, but since I have never actually gotten a permit for work, I'm not 100% certain of the process for getting ready for the "rough" inspection. Usually, if I'm just adding an outlet, I do the work and move on, so no permit or inspection necessary.

I assume that I'll need to do the following to the wires coming from the new sub panel: Condense my grounds down to a single lead (either with greenie wire nut or ground clips). Then for the Hots and Neutrals: strip, wind, pig-tail, then cap each pigtail individually and coil neatly in the boxes. Is this correct?


Additional question: for the rough inspection, what do I need to do with the circuit breaker in the main panel and the wire from the main panel to the new sub panel? I assume connect and wire them, but don't energize it. This is mainly where I need the help/expertise from the group.


Additional Info: I'll be using #8 3 conductor with ground UF wire from the box to the panel in a 24 inch deep trench with conduit protect the entry and exit points down to 24 inches. Overall distance is about 115 feet, so #8 is needed.

 

[Reach4]

I assume that I'll need to do the following to the wires coming from the new sub panel: Condense my grounds down to a single lead (either with greenie wire nut or ground clips).

Many, if not all, subpanel boxes will let you split the hot and neutral, and the box you get should do that. So no wire nuts needed in the new box.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Marcus Waddell]

This is really the main question I had....
Additional question: for the rough inspection, what do I need to do with the circuit breaker in the main panel and the wire from the main panel to the new sub panel? I assume connect and wire them, but don't energize it. This is mainly where I need the help/expertise from the group.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

There is no standard for what inspectors will want to see in that regard, as it will vary depending on where you live. I would wire everything up and test it, and then turn the power to sub off until they sign off on it. Hopefully you know that you need grounding rods and isolated ground at the subpanel location.

 

[Marcus Waddell]

There is no standard for what inspectors will want to see in that regard, as it will vary depending on where you live. I would wire everything up and test it, and then turn the power to sub off until they sign off on it. Hopefully you know that you need grounding rods and isolated ground at the subpanel location.

I do. Already talked about that with the inspector, but he was not super forthcoming about what "rough" means. I get it for the outlets and the sub panel, but I'm not 100% sure what to do in the main panel. Do I basically treat that like one of the outlets, get it ready to be connected to the breaker, but don't actually do it?

 

[Reach4]

I do. Already talked about that with the inspector, but he was not super forthcoming about what "rough" means. I get it for the outlets and the sub panel, but I'm not 100% sure what to do in the main panel. Do I basically treat that like one of the outlets, get it ready to be connected to the breaker, but don't actually do it?

What cacher_chick said he would do is to wire the 8 awg to the 40 amp breaker in the main panel, but have that breaker switched off when the inspector arrives.

I would admit to having turned on that breaker for testing during your work, if asked.

The subpanel would probably have another 40 amp breaker that serves as the shutoff in the shed, and you would probably have that on when the inspector arrives.

What about the ground rod?

 

[Marcus Waddell]

What about the ground rod?

I will be putting two in the ground near the panel by the shed, about 7-10 feet apart. #8 bare copper wire to ground it, rod 8 feet into the ground.

 

[Marcus Waddell]

What cacher_chick said he would do is to wire the 8 awg to the 40 amp breaker in the main panel, but have that breaker switched off when the inspector arrives.

I would admit to having turned on that breaker for testing during your work, if asked.

Do you think there'd be any issue wiring the subpanel completely. Wiring TO the main panel, putting the wire in the panel, but not physically hooking it up to the breaker??

 

[Reach4]

Do you think there'd be any issue wiring the subpanel completely. Wiring TO the main panel, putting the wire in the panel, but not physically hooking it up to the breaker??

I am not an electrician. I have never dealt with an electrical inspector. That said, I would suspect yes. An inspector inspects, and I would think he would have a hard time inspecting in that state.

 

[Stuff]

I will be putting two in the ground near the panel by the shed, about 7-10 feet apart. #8 bare copper wire to ground it, rod 8 feet into the ground.

#8 is small enough that it needs protection from physical damage. http://www.ncwhomeinspections.com/system/files/userfiles/Protection_of_grounding_conductors.pdf

 

[Marcus Waddell]

#8 is small enough that it needs protection from physical damage. http://www.ncwhomeinspections.com/system/files/userfiles/Protection_of_grounding_conductors.pdf

Noted. Thanks.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Part of a rough in inspection is the dept of the wire below the grade level. Just to make it easy, do use electrical conduit Schedule 40 on the horizontal and Schedule 80 coming out of the ground, the verticals. PVC conduit is very low cost and offers excellent protection. If it is a short run, say 20 ft then just bury the UF. If you don't use conduit, you need to protect the UF in schedule 80 conduit or metal conduit to protect the UF cable going vertical. After trenching you'll need at some locations for the wire to be seen at the 24" dept. Don't fully fill in the trench.

 

[JerryR]

I’ve pulled homeowner electrical and plumbing permits many times. As long as your work is neat and mostly proper inspectors are understanding.

Connect everything up as normal then turn off all new breakers. Leave connections to ground rods and wire trench visible for inspection.

If the inspector finds anything on the rough that he wants changed he will let you know. Then do the corrections and call for a final inspection.

 

[Marcus Waddell]

Thanks all. I got this in and passed the final inspection. Really appreciate your help.