LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
I have the micronizer less than a foot from the inlet of the HP tank but it cannot be placed close enough to not foul the line with iron as the fouling starts within inches of the aeration. I have a pressure gauge immediately after the micronizer and I have a second gauge on the top (air side) of the Wellmate HP-7 tank.
I had noticed a significant drop in pressure and volume at the faucets. Watching the pressure gauges while the pump was running, I observed 10 PSI more before the inlet of the tank than what the tank pressure showed. Obviously the inlet is constricted which limited the GPM fill rate. The fill rate is already somewhat limited by the micronizer.
I used a flat metal bar that was a perfect fit for the ID of the 1" pipe feeding the inlet but it was not long enough to reach the bend where the inlet makes a 90 degree upturn into the tank. That helped reduce the pressure drop by 5 PSI for now while I contemplate how I am going to clean out the rest. The following pic shows the inlet and outlet where the taller side is the inlet. Obviously it is threaded into the base of the tank.
From the looks of it, it may need to be removed and attacked from both sides. ISTR that the inlet and outlet pipes with threads on one end are glued in. I have unions threaded onto the ends so probably won't need to cut the pipes and glue couplings assuming the base will rotate with the part. Possibly I can reach into the tank from the top by removing the AVC.
Plan B might be to buy a replacement part (#CH10991-1) to have on hand in case this goes sideways on me.
Plan C is to buy a complete new HP-7 and convert this old tank into a UT (contact tank) by replacing the top threaded AVC with part #CH14938 and use the existing outlet as the inlet.
Plan D is a variation on C but keep the AVC in place and have the outlet also be the inlet. That would essentially double the draw-down and the contact time. Eventually the air might get absorbed and water-log the tank but since the water is aerated by the micronizer, in theory it should take a long time if'n it even happens.
So, while I had the water shut off and the micronizer removed to clean out what I could reach of the inlet, I decided to replace it with a new micronizer that I had purchased as a spare 2 years ago. Wouldn't you know it, the damned think leaked both at the rubber air check and at the bypass O-ring. I guess the rubber must have dried out just sitting there. Who knows how long it might have sat before I bought it. I do have a couple of spare rubber air checks and a spare O-ring so can swap them if I can't get the leaks to stop. The rubber air checks are very finicky to install where they need to lubed up with soap and care taken not to distort them while tightening.
I got the old micronizer cleaned up but it needs a new bypass. The old bypass is brass and got eroded by the water. I'm going to try to buy a stainless steel one which hopefully will resist wear.
I had noticed a significant drop in pressure and volume at the faucets. Watching the pressure gauges while the pump was running, I observed 10 PSI more before the inlet of the tank than what the tank pressure showed. Obviously the inlet is constricted which limited the GPM fill rate. The fill rate is already somewhat limited by the micronizer.
I used a flat metal bar that was a perfect fit for the ID of the 1" pipe feeding the inlet but it was not long enough to reach the bend where the inlet makes a 90 degree upturn into the tank. That helped reduce the pressure drop by 5 PSI for now while I contemplate how I am going to clean out the rest. The following pic shows the inlet and outlet where the taller side is the inlet. Obviously it is threaded into the base of the tank.
From the looks of it, it may need to be removed and attacked from both sides. ISTR that the inlet and outlet pipes with threads on one end are glued in. I have unions threaded onto the ends so probably won't need to cut the pipes and glue couplings assuming the base will rotate with the part. Possibly I can reach into the tank from the top by removing the AVC.
Plan B might be to buy a replacement part (#CH10991-1) to have on hand in case this goes sideways on me.
Plan C is to buy a complete new HP-7 and convert this old tank into a UT (contact tank) by replacing the top threaded AVC with part #CH14938 and use the existing outlet as the inlet.
Plan D is a variation on C but keep the AVC in place and have the outlet also be the inlet. That would essentially double the draw-down and the contact time. Eventually the air might get absorbed and water-log the tank but since the water is aerated by the micronizer, in theory it should take a long time if'n it even happens.
So, while I had the water shut off and the micronizer removed to clean out what I could reach of the inlet, I decided to replace it with a new micronizer that I had purchased as a spare 2 years ago. Wouldn't you know it, the damned think leaked both at the rubber air check and at the bypass O-ring. I guess the rubber must have dried out just sitting there. Who knows how long it might have sat before I bought it. I do have a couple of spare rubber air checks and a spare O-ring so can swap them if I can't get the leaks to stop. The rubber air checks are very finicky to install where they need to lubed up with soap and care taken not to distort them while tightening.
I got the old micronizer cleaned up but it needs a new bypass. The old bypass is brass and got eroded by the water. I'm going to try to buy a stainless steel one which hopefully will resist wear.