Geothermal 10% bleed off

[TinHead]

I have a 3.5 ton water to air heat pump (9gpm) running off an open loop system in my 420' well. I currently use a submersible pump designed to run continuously with the geothermal heat pump (no cycling on and off).
I am thrilled at my $160 a month cost to heat (I'm in NW Connecticut and heat a 2500 sq ft home).

I have 2 issues I am looking to resolve.

1) The well starts to cool in extended periods of single digit temps, it still works... but runs too long

2) My well overflows through my electrical conduit into my basement in the spring, when the geothermal loop is turned on. (I live on a hill full of water)

Best solution I have so far: I am looking to bleed off 10% of my water before it goes back to the well.
This should warm the well with fresh heat , and also keep my well static level down slightly to avoid water into my basement.

Slight wrench in the gears... I also use this for domestic water.
It works fine, but I'm sure it varies the pressure in the 'return to well' line somewhat.

Question 1, how do I regulate a 10% bleed from my 'return to well' line?
(if I wanted to reroute .8-1 gpm to a dry well)

Question 2, how do I design and size a 'dry well' for the 10% bleed?
(almost all dry well info I've found is for rainwater, and not intended for winter use)

I'm open to any other ideas for solutions.

Thanks in Advance
Andy 8)

 

[Reach4]

I don't know about dry well sizing.

how do I regulate a 10% bleed from my 'return to well' line?
(if I wanted to reroute .8-1 gpm to a dry well)

A Dole valve comes to mind. https://www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/eaton_corp/docs/dolevalve_specifications.pdf
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/flowregulators.html
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[Sponsor]

 

[TinHead]

I don't know about dry well sizing.

A Dole valve comes to mind. https://www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/eaton_corp/docs/dolevalve_specifications.pdf
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/flowregulators.html
​

Nice!! That looks perfect.

I'll just add a ball valve and that's the metering part resolved.

Thanks!!
Andy

 

[Valveman]

I would use a sprinkler valve with a flow control knob. You can attach the wires from this solenoid valve to a contact on the heat pump. When the heat pump comes it will also open the solenoid valve to bleed. The flow control knob on the solenoid valve can be set to 1 GPM as needed.

I have also seen these bleed valves connected to a thermostat, so the bleed only happens when the water temp requires it.

A dry well probably won't be dry for long when you start bleeding water to it.

 

[Valveman]

Another option is to tee into the system after the heat pump to feed the domestic supply water. This will change the temperature in the water coming to the house by 10F or so, but usually not noticeable. When enough water is used in the house, the bleed may not be needed.

 

[TinHead]

I would use a sprinkler valve with a flow control knob. You can attach the wires from this solenoid valve to a contact on the heat pump. When the heat pump comes it will also open the solenoid valve to bleed. The flow control knob on the solenoid valve can be set to 1 GPM as needed.

I have also seen these bleed valves connected to a thermostat, so the bleed only happens when the water temp requires it.

A dry well probably won't be dry for long when you start bleeding water to it.

Interesting, I like the option of thermostatic control based on well water temp.
I don't know the gpm range of the sprinkler valve yet, but being adjustable should also be beneficial.

Dry well rate of percolation also has me concerned, any ideas that would be more suitable?
(septic tank is not an option)

The piping system does supply domestic water, but it tees before the geothermal.
I've been trickling the water for a week trying to keep the basement dry, its working.

Thanks for your input!!
Andy

 

[Reach4]

How about running your conduit up and then run the down? That is how a pitless is normally done. The wire comes underground to the casing. The conduit goes up into the well cap. Then the wire goes down the casing.

Dry well rate of percolation also has me concerned, any ideas that would be more suitable?
(septic tank is not an option)

Ditch / street gutter? Where do your gutters drain to?

 

[TinHead]

How about running your conduit up and then run the down? That is how a pitless is normally done. The wire comes underground to the casing. The conduit goes up into the well cap. Then the wire goes down the casing.

Ditch / street gutter? Where do your gutters drain to?

My cap is similar, black pipe up the casing and into the bottom of the cap.

I think the water is actually being pushed up to the cap and out the conduit.
Not sure how a looped water system surges static level, but it seems to be happening.
(maybe air in the line? <shrug>)

Not sure if pumping water out across the ground is a good idea at 10 degrees. I would imagine the exit point would likely freeze.
I've had that happen in the past with condensate from high efficiency gas furnaces.

Thanks for the ideas
Andy

 

[Craigpump]

Easy enough, install a second pitless adapter with a length of poly pipe that will allow overflow from the well to run to daylight. We have a well in Southbury that artesians 10 gpm through a second pitless and runs into the wetlands 200' behind the house. For lesser amounts of water you can do basically the same thing but use 4" PVC so you can create an air gap to prevent bacteria contamination.

 

[TinHead]

Easy enough, install a second pitless adapter with a length of poly pipe that will allow overflow from the well to run to daylight. We have a well in Southbury that artesians 10 gpm through a second pitless and runs into the wetlands 200' behind the house. For lesser amounts of water you can do basically the same thing but use 4" PVC so you can create an air gap to prevent bacteria contamination.

Sounds like we live in the same neighborhood 8) <waves from NM>

Damn!! 10 GPM Holy Cow!
What level was the pitless installed at?

Since I'm looking to do a geoloop bleed as well (est. max 500 gal per day mid winter), I'm probably stuck installing a leaching field.
My property slopes down to 2 other houses.

Thanks for the feedback!
Andy

 

[Craigpump]

We installed the 1.25 pitless just below the 1" pitless.

500 gallons per day overflow will require a large, expensive leach field.

Where in New Milford are you?

 

[TinHead]

We installed the 1.25 pitless just below the 1" pitless.

500 gallons per day overflow will require a large, expensive leach field.

Where in New Milford are you?

I'm on the hill behind CVS, just East of the green.

Thanks for the info on the pitless.

Im prolly gonna rent a small machine and put the field in myself, those plastic bottomless chambers look really easy to install.
Since its clean well water, I don't see a downside.

To anyone: I'm open to any ideas on that task since I've never done it before. 8)

 

[Craigpump]

You may want to talk to the sanitarian and get his input before you start. The last thing you want is a nosy neighbor turning you for installing what he thinks is an illegal septic system. I know permits are required for dry wells that are installed for water treatment systems that backwash, I think that the health Dept would expect your project to be permitted as well.

 

[Reach4]

Do you think extending TinHead's casing two more feet would be likely to stop the overflow?

 

[TheFicks]

We have a well. About a year ago we replaced our bladder tank with a smaller used one because the current one developed a leak. We had no issues for a while, then we had to replace the switch. Then after a while we had more problems and has a well service come in. They replaced the foot valve and repaired a leak in the pipe. Now every week our well loses prime and we have to reset the switch. Any idea what could be causing this?

 

[Reach4]

TheFicks,
To post a new thread:

Click the name of the forum that you want to post into.
On the right, click on "Post New Thread".

 

[Craigpump]

You may want to talk to the sanitarian and get his input before you start. The last thing you want is a nosy neighbor turning you for installing what he thinks is an illegal septic system. I know permits are required for dry wells that are installed for water treatment systems that backwash, I think that the health Dept would expect your project to be permitted as well.

Depends on the pressure behind it.