Help unclogging a stubborn tub drain

[demamey]

Hello there!

My tub drain has been clogged for a very long time.

In the past it had worked when I:

Vaccumed the drain for a long time (with a rag over the overflow)
Used Drano max gel followed by very hot water.

It always worked for a short time.

Recently I have tried both these systems, with no success.

I have also tried bio clean.

I have old clay drain most of the way down, the tub plumbing itself is newer, and probably done incorrectly.

I have tried multiple times, by myself and had a few professional plumbers attempt to snake the drain, it was impossible. Two plumbers said it was impossible due to the set up of the plumbing, and I destroyed my own snake.

I have not tried snaking through the vent. This seems very dangerous and I cannot do it by myself.

I am not in a good financial place, and I cannot hire a plumber.

What do you suggest I do?

Is there something like snaking from the basement up?

or is there another material I should maybe try?

Do you need any further information to be able to help me?

Thank you very much!

 

[Reach4]

Can you post a photo of what you can see from the basement, including the trap?

photo added by Terry Love
Some newer tub drains have these.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[demamey]

Can you post a photo of what you can see from the basement, including the trap?

Thanks, I forgot to mention a few more details.

The tub is on the second floor.

There is an access panel in the wall of the room next door, that is not very easy to work from. I was able to completely remove the trap, and it was completely clean. The blockage is further down the line.

In the basement, come to think of it, there is only an old pipe going straight down from the second floor, with no clean out.

 

[Reach4]

In the basement, come to think of it, there is only an old pipe going straight down from the second floor, with no clean out.

I am not a plumber.

What I did for a blocke drain line serving a kitchen above was to cut out a section (~10 inches?) of a drain line. I used the opening of the gap for cleanout. In my case, I used a Brasscraft drain bladder, pushed down as far as it would go. That put it at about the floor level.

I then restored that same section of pipe with flex couplings. I should have used banded couplings, but it worked. Or I could have replaced a bigger section with PVC and a cleanout. However that section was able to serve as a cleanout by sliding the couplings and pulling the section temporarily.

My drain pipe was copper, which made for easier cutting. It also made the pipe lighter than galvanized, so I did not have to be as careful that the pipe above was supported well.

Here is a thought for you. I presume that given enough time, the drain drains. You could add water at the tub, and measure how much water you could add before the drain stops taking water. Do a calculation knowing the pipe size, and figure where the blockage is. Chances are it is where the drain line turns from vertical to horizontal.

http://ehs.ncpublichealth.com/oswp/docs/design/PVC-SizeVolume.pdf has some tables. At the bottom of page 1 is table B. For 1-1/2 inch schedule 40 PVC, which is similar to clean galvanized, it holds 10.6 gallons per 100 ft, or 0.106 gallons per ft. If you could put in 1.5 gallons of water, that would correspond to 1.5/0.106=14.15 ft.

Not perfect. There are factors that will cause errors. These include that some water will make it past the clog while you are pouring. There may be some narrowing of the pipe. And there could be other factors. Still, I think it could produce a useful number.

 

[Stuff]

It would help to know the entire setup to help figure out where the blockage is. Do the toilet and sink drain properly? Are they tied into the tub drain?

 

[demamey]

It would help to know the entire setup to help figure out where the blockage is. Do the toilet and sink drain properly? Are they tied into the tub drain?

The toilet and sink drain separately and their are draining fine...

 

[demamey]

I am not a plumber.

What I did for a blocke drain line serving a kitchen above was to cut out a section (~10 inches?) of a drain line. I used the opening of the gap for cleanout. In my case, I used a Brasscraft drain bladder, pushed down as far as it would go. That put it at about the floor level.

I then restored that same section of pipe with flex couplings. I should have used banded couplings, but it worked. Or I could have replaced a bigger section with PVC and a cleanout. However that section was able to serve as a cleanout by sliding the couplings and pulling the section temporarily.

My drain pipe was copper, which made for easier cutting. It also made the pipe lighter than galvanized, so I did not have to be as careful that the pipe above was supported well.

Here is a thought for you. I presume that given enough time, the drain drains. You could add water at the tub, and measure how much water you could add before the drain stops taking water. Do a calculation knowing the pipe size, and figure where the blockage is. Chances are it is where the drain line turns from vertical to horizontal.

http://ehs.ncpublichealth.com/oswp/docs/design/PVC-SizeVolume.pdf has some tables. At the bottom of page 1 is table B. For 1-1/2 inch schedule 40 PVC, which is similar to clean galvanized, it holds 10.6 gallons per 100 ft, or 0.106 gallons per ft. If you could put in 1.5 gallons of water, that would correspond to 1.5/0.106=14.15 ft.

Not perfect. There are factors that will cause errors. These include that some water will make it past the clog while you are pouring. There may be some narrowing of the pipe. And there could be other factors. Still, I think it could produce a useful number.

Thank you so

I am not a plumber.

What I did for a blocke drain line serving a kitchen above was to cut out a section (~10 inches?) of a drain line. I used the opening of the gap for cleanout. In my case, I used a Brasscraft drain bladder, pushed down as far as it would go. That put it at about the floor level.

I then restored that same section of pipe with flex couplings. I should have used banded couplings, but it worked. Or I could have replaced a bigger section with PVC and a cleanout. However that section was able to serve as a cleanout by sliding the couplings and pulling the section temporarily.

My drain pipe was copper, which made for easier cutting. It also made the pipe lighter than galvanized, so I did not have to be as careful that the pipe above was supported well.

Here is a thought for you. I presume that given enough time, the drain drains. You could add water at the tub, and measure how much water you could add before the drain stops taking water. Do a calculation knowing the pipe size, and figure where the blockage is. Chances are it is where the drain line turns from vertical to horizontal.

http://ehs.ncpublichealth.com/oswp/docs/design/PVC-SizeVolume.pdf has some tables. At the bottom of page 1 is table B. For 1-1/2 inch schedule 40 PVC, which is similar to clean galvanized, it holds 10.6 gallons per 100 ft, or 0.106 gallons per ft. If you could put in 1.5 gallons of water, that would correspond to 1.5/0.106=14.15 ft.

Not perfect. There are factors that will cause errors. These include that some water will make it past the clog while you are pouring. There may be some narrowing of the pipe. And there could be other factors. Still, I think it could produce a useful number.

Thank you!

That seems like it could work. I have to figure out what kind of pipe it is, it is a hundred year old pipe. Of I just cut the part that is exposed in the basement without damaging the rest of it, and replace that part with PVC, seems like a day's work... So not the worst.

If there is any way I can achieve this with less effort, like with a chemical, I would surely prefer that

But otherwise, if I can figure out how to not destroy the rest of the pipe that is not exposed, I think that could be a good solution.

Thank you!

 

[hj]

quote; If there is any way I can achieve this with less effort,

yes, call a plumber and have it fixed in a VERY short time. But, call better ones that you had previously.

 

[demamey]

quote; If there is any way I can achieve this with less effort,

yes, call a plumber and have it fixed in a VERY short time. But, call better ones that you had previously.

Thanks, obviously that would be much less effort! But I can't afford it right now...

And I really Appreciate the advice from Reach4! And others in these forums too! I hope I did not sound like I don't.

I just wonder if there in another diy way to try out before cutting pipes that I am not aware of yet.

 

[Reach4]

I just wonder if there in another diy way to try out before cutting pipes that I am not aware of yet.

Check the basement pipe for a cleanout that you might have missed. That would be a nice find.

 

[Stuff]

Since you were able to remove the trap can you snake the drain from there? Don't know how you tried the earlier times. Maybe try a bladder instead?

When you said clay do you mean cast iron from bathroom to basement or clay in the house?

 

[demamey]

Since you were able to remove the trap can you snake the drain from there? Don't know how you tried the earlier times. Maybe try a bladder instead?

When you said clay do you mean cast iron from bathroom to basement or clay in the house?

It must be cast iron and not clay, but I am not sure.

I have not tried pure lye yet, is that worth trying?

I will look into what a bladder is, thank you!

I don't believe I can snake it after removing the trap, it's really difficult to access from there... But might be worth trying never the less ...

Check the basement pipe for a cleanout that you might have missed. That would be a nice find.

yes, that's definitely worth checking, thanks. When I am back home I will go down there and investigate again

Thank you!