Can I Install a Filter for a Pressure Switch?

[Daavewaard]

I have a 40/60 pressure switch and replaced it about 3 months ago because of the gunk/corrosion that had accumulated inside the switch. This caused the pump to activate at 40 but never reach 60...to shut off. I cleared the 1/4" line feeding the switch but today I see the problem may have recurred...as the pump is running but not reaching the shut-off limit. So...I wonder if there is a filter I could install before the switch to protect it. Or alternatively, perhaps a "line drop" of sorts similar to an air pressure setup.

I should mention that for all intents and purposes the water quality seems perfectly clear even though there is this accumulation of rusty colored soft muck at the pressure switch.

Thanks for your assistance! Dave

 

[Greenmonster123]

Sounds like iron bacteria. I haven't had very much luck filtering that crap out. Maybe put the switch on a union so you can take it off to clean without removing the wires every time.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Daavewaard]

Sounds like iron bacteria. I haven't had very much luck filtering that crap out. Maybe put the switch on a union so you can take it off to clean without removing the wires every time.

That's a clever idea...I'll look into that! Just because I'm getting good at removing and re-installing the wiring doesn't mean I'm happy doing it.

 

[LLigetfa]

Is this with a HP or captive air tank? If HP then you could plumb the switch to the air section.

Are you using brass, galvanized, or plastic tubing to the switch? How old was the switch?

 

[Valveman]

Yeah make sure to use Brass or SS nipple. Galvanized nipples will clog up quickly.

 

[Daavewaard]

Yeah make sure to use Brass or SS nipple. Galvanized nipples will clog up quickly.

I have brass connecting the pressure switch and gauge.

A second problem has emerged. I set the air pressure at 38 both for this switch and the one I replaced. The one I replaced, even though new would not ascend to 60 lbs so I reset the switch to 58. Today, after replacing the switch and re-setting the air pressure the same thing occurred...the tank pressure will not reach 60...and the pump just keeps on running. I adjusted the cut-out screw attempting to reduce the cut-out level but even with my adjustment exceeding my intuition the pressure gauge reads about 56-57 and the pump keeps running. Conceivably the pump will run 24-7 with no faucets open.

ps. I have a constant pressure pside-kick and I am VERY pleased with it.

 

[LLigetfa]

What kind of pump do you have, sub or jet? Do you have more than one checkvalve on the system?

It doesn't sound like a problem with the switch or the riser tube. Either the level in the well dropped or the pump is worn out and deadheading, or there is a leak in the pipe that is faster than the GPM can produce at the top of its curve.

 

[Nolan]

If it is a jet pump it could be a clogged nozzle?

 

[Valveman]

ps. I have a constant pressure pside-kick and I am VERY pleased with it.

With a CSV as long as you have about 1/2 GPM leaking somewhere the pump will run continuously. Also the max pressure of the jet pump needs to be about 10 PSI higher than the pressure switch cut off point. Close the ball valve so no water can go to the house. If the pump then builds pressure and shuts off, you have 1/2G GPM leaking somewhere in the house. If the pump still doesn't shut off, check that the pump can build more pressure than the shutoff setting of the switch. You may just need to turn the pressure switch down some if your pump cannot build enough pressure.

 

[Daavewaard]

Cary, and everyone...this forum is a great resource...thanks to all. Cary...I will follow your strategy, but one question: re the max pressure of the jet pump. You said, "check that the pump can build more pressure than the shutoff setting of the switch"...I'm not clear on that test procedure. If you mean did it originally have the capability I have used the 40-60 switch successfully for quite some time...so does that mean the pump is wearing out?

I will indeed have to change the settings if there is no leak detected. Thanks.

Here's an update after some more testing/re-setting...I did successfully test for leakage after finally making the right adjustment to get the cut-off pressure at 58...which is acceptable. Everything is back to where it stood before this became priority #1. Now back to the to-do list at priority #2.

I really appreciate the effort everyone makes here to be helpful to strangers. It is heartwarming.
Dave

 

[LLigetfa]

If it is a jet pump it could be a clogged nozzle?

Symptom of a clogged jet is much lower pressure, more in the range of 20-30 PSI.

 

[LLigetfa]

I did successfully test for leakage after finally making the right adjustment to get the cut-off pressure at 58...which is acceptable.

Sorry, but I don't find it acceptable to have the cut-out so close to it deadheading. If the water level drops a few feet the pump will still deadhead and possibly meltdown. As Cary said, you should have at least 10 PSI of reserve, meaning if the pump can only produce 58 PSI, the cut-out should be set to 48.

 

[Valveman]

You will need to look at the spec sheet for that pump to find the max pressure. Any lift needs to be subtracted from the max pressure, while pumping from an above ground tank will add to the max pressure. If the pump has a max pressure of 70 PSI, and you are drawing from a cistern that has a water level 10 ' above the pump, your pump now has a max pressure of 74 PSI. For every 2.31' the water level is above the pump it adds 1 PSI to the inlet of the pump, which in turn adds 1 PSI to the max pressure the pump can build.

 

[LLigetfa]

That is assuming the pump is still within spec. The proof of the pudding is in the eating, so if you raise the cutoff by 10 PSI and it doesn't shut off, you have found your maximum pressure for today's conditions.