Wilkins 70 Pressure Reducing Valve

[Geobrick]

1) I have a Wilkins 70 Pressure Reducing Valve that's about 17 years old. How long before I should expect to have to replace (or rebuild) it?

2) I looked at the Zurn-Wilkins website and noticed they no longer sell the model 70. It's now a 70XL but they no longer make the size I have which is 1-1/4" (double union). I would hope to get something with the same dimensions that would be interchangeable with the old one so I can just install the new one without redoing the piping. Any thoughts on what to do here? I saw they make an NR3XL model with a double union but can't be sure the dimensions are right. The spec sheet on their site shows a drawing with a dimension "A" that seems to imply they are measuring from the ends of the union fittings instead of the valve body.

3) What do the professionals use for the gaskets on union fittings? This is a 1-1/4" valve so what size union gasket should I be looking for (I assume 1-1/4" but I can't be sure)? I see some wetness on the top of the valve and want to have some replacements on hand if I decide to mess with it.

4) How do I make my uploaded images appear as thumbnails until clicked on?

 

[Jadnashua]

Unions do not use a gasket...the seal is metal on metal. It doesn't hurt to put a little bit of pipe dope (not tape!) on the mating surfaces when you tighten them back up (nothing on the threads...they are not what is sealing things).

How long they'll last...can't say. An alternative might be to use a rebuild kit if there's one available still. The labor to do this is such that most plumbers will just replace it with a new one, but if there are some extenuating circumstances, a rebuild might work out for you.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

Is the PRV malfunctioning?

If you want to replace it, the job will undoubtedly require some pipe cutting and soldering, replacing the main shut off valve and other things too.
If you don't know how to do it, get a plumber.

To answer your question: This type of unions do have rubber gaskets. Your old PRV is double union. When you get a new PRV you will notice that new gaskets are included.
You don't have to get a double union PRV, you can get a single union PRV instead.
You also don't need a 1-1/4" PRV if your main line in 1" or 3/4".

 

[Geobrick]

Is the PRV malfunctioning?
If you want to replace it, the job will undoubtedly require some pipe cutting and soldering, replacing the main shut off valve and other things too.
If you don't know how to do it, get a plumber.

To answer your question: This type of unions do have rubber gaskets. Your old PRV is double union. When you get a new PRV you will notice that new gaskets are included.
You don't have to get a double union PRV, you can get a single union PRV instead.
You also don't need a 1-1/4" PRV if your main line in 1" or 3/4".

Thanks for the reply,

I don't think the PRV is malfunctioning but it's 17 years old and I noticed they sell refurb kits (or they used to for this size) so I figured I'd look into it. I can redo the pipe myself if needed but it seems so much simpler to swap in a replacement PRV of the same length dimension and use the existing unions.

You say I may not need a 1-1/4" PRV if my main line in 1" or 3/4". I'm not sure if you can tell by the photo if it's a 1" or 1-1/4" line (it's not 3/4"). I assume they mean inside diameter. Is it possible they put a 1-1/4" PRV on a 1" line? What would be the benefits of that?
Here's a better image of the full pipe.

If it is a 1" line, maybe I can just replace it with a 70XLDU assuming the length dimension is the same.

 

[Geobrick]

Unions do not use a gasket...the seal is metal on metal. It doesn't hurt to put a little bit of pipe dope (not tape!) on the mating surfaces when you tighten them back up (nothing on the threads...they are not what is sealing things).

How long they'll last...can't say. An alternative might be to use a rebuild kit if there's one available still. The labor to do this is such that most plumbers will just replace it with a new one, but if there are some extenuating circumstances, a rebuild might work out for you.

I'm pretty sure each union has a rubber gasket that sit between the valve and the pipe (but I've been wrong before).
I have seen a rebuild kit online for about $130 (about half the price of a new PRV).

 

[Dj2]

A rebuild kit plus your time will be more than a new PRV. You do the math.

 

[Jadnashua]

The larger the PRV, the higher the flow capacity. Get one too small for your needs, and it could end up throttling the flow. It could also induce some noise in the line.

Learned something...all of the unions I've used did not have any gaskets in them. Never too old to learn...

 

[Geobrick]

A rebuild kit plus your time will be more than a new PRV. You do the math.

Agree. I was thinking of rebuilding it after a new one (if needed) was in place but if the piping is redone to accommodate a new PRV, then it wouldn't make sense to rebuild the old one. If I were able to buy a direct replacement PRV, I'd enjoy taking apart and rebuilding the old one.

 

[Geobrick]

I called Zurn/Wilkins and found out they make a retrofit kit for the NR3XL to allow a direct swap for a Wilkins 70.
See the pictures below. I'm thinking of putting it on the downstream side of the regulator since there would be less pressure there (and that mini o-ring doesn't very substantial). Or maybe put it upstream so it has less effect on the flow coming out of the regulator.

 

[MACPLUMB]

Just do a straight swap out be done with it over and finished

 

[Geobrick]

That's what I'm doing. Just wondering which end to but the retrofit extender on. The upstream, higher pressure input side of the regulator or the downstream, reduced pressure side of the regulator?

 

[MACPLUMB]

The other outside piping is for your home FIRE SPRINKLER System !

 

[Jadnashua]

It's really best to use this forum's picture import capabilities to post your pictures than some off-site source...that way, it will stay with your post and not be 'lost'. Use the paperclip icon in the advanced menu.