I can hear water running (percolating) in my master bath sinks when my softener regenerates - help?

[JRC3]

You could even take out that pedestal sink and put in a cabinet to hide things if you need too. You have plenty of room, especially for one of those compact styles they make now. This would hide the wye tailpiece and anything you have to cut from the wall for access...Plus storage.

Something like this:

They also make cabinets to sit around a pedestal base but they are a bit bulkier.

 

[Reach4]

Can the water softener pump the drain water up 8 or 10 feet?

If your water pressure is 40 PSI or more, yes, I think you could pump up 13 ft and more. Maybe share the washing machine standpipe. See http://www.airgap.com/mr_drain.html or http://www.airgap.com/gap_it.html for example pictures

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ditttohead]

I have the same Hobart welder. Nice!

The 5800 will be fine, installing larger systems is not a problem and has no negatives. You are correct, like the Clack, the Fleck 5800 series are not available online. Parts wont be a problem as their are literally thousands of dealers who sell them, just not online... The softener should be just fine running the drain up/over 13 feet. but a quick test of the brine draw cycle would be needed to confirm that after installation.

 

[sac02]

So we just had to replace the PRV on our main water line to the house, so I can confirm our house pressure is 70psi.

Good to know that the vertical rise should not be an issue.

I'm not sure that I can access the laundry standpipe easily. The laundry room is across the house on the first floor, with second floor living areas above it. (the garage has no living area above it, though the attic shares the area above the second floor and garage - it is a "split-level attic"). Unless the standpipe from the first floor laundry extends up into the attic above the second floor, I'm not sure how I will access it.

Are there recommended diameters & lengths for WS drain pipes? The minimum length of pipe for this "up and over" routing (probably the shortest option) will still be about 50ft. "Up, UP, and over" to the laundry (if possible) could be 75 or more.

I hope that plumbing the drain pipe does not create a large delay, I am looking forward to having soft water again soon.

 

[ditttohead]

The drain line should be run in 3/4" PVC if the flow rate is 7 GPM or less. 50-75 feet is fine, no problem.

 

[Reach4]

I'm not sure that I can access the laundry standpipe easily. The laundry room is across the house on the first floor, with second floor living areas above it. (the garage has no living area above it, though the attic shares the area above the second floor and garage - it is a "split-level attic"). Unless the standpipe from the first floor laundry extends up into the attic above the second floor, I'm not sure how I will access it.

I was picturing the attic right above the laundry room. Fishing pipe through the extra floor would be hard, so that laundry room thing would not be so easy.

The only way that would be fairly easy is if you incorporated it into a project that put a laundry chute from the second floor into the laundry room.

 

[Bannerman]

There are various styles of counter mount air gap devices which could be utilized. While one could be installed on your master bath counter top, that would not eliminate the noise concern.
https://www.pinterest.com/explore/dishwasher-air-gap/

Too bad the powder room currently has a pedestal sink as mounting one of these would likely be easily accomplished onto a counter or basin faucet apron. The discharge end could then be connected to the drain tailpiece, similar to your master bath basin drain. The air gap vents would need to be located above the height of the basin rim to ensure in the event of drain blockage, no contaminated water ever comes into contact with the end of the water softener drain tube.

While the device is working properly, no water should exit the device air vent openings onto the counter top or basin rim.

I continue to consider opening the garage wall to access the soil stack is your shortest and most straight forward method. Since you stated you can run the drain tube through the garage attic, that would then eliminate any concern of routing horizontally around garage walls and around the access door. As you indicate being an avid DIYer, I'm certain you will find a suitable method.