Kitchen Remodel Electrical Question:

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oldberkeley

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I'd like to have the garbage disposer and the dishwasher plug in to a receptacle under the sink.

The garbage disposal would be switched (next to the sink) and the dishwasher would be on a GFCI (which I think is now code.)

Can these two appliances share one dedicated 20 amp circuit? If so, how would I wire it?

If not, what would be the correct way to wire this setup?

TIA.

-Gary
 
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Stuff

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Ohio is supposedly still on 2011 so no GFCI or AFCI needed.
Normally no problem with both on same circuit. But if you read instruction manuals for the appliances they sometimes say require dedicated circuit. Also have to check the total amperage under 20.
 
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oldberkeley

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Ohio is supposedly still on 2011 so no GFCI or AFCI needed.
Normally no problem with both on same circuit. But if you read instruction manuals for the appliances they sometimes say require dedicated circuit. Also have to check the total amperage under 20.
OK, got ya'.

So if I skipped the GFCI, I'd simply install an outlet under the sink and split it, hot for the dishwasher and switch for the disposal?

Even if the Ohio code doesn't require it but I wanted the dishwasher GFCI protected, would installing a GFCI breaker in the box do the trick? Of course the disposal would also then be on the GFCI, would that be a problem?

TIA
 

oldberkeley

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Ohio is supposedly still on 2011 so no GFCI or AFCI needed.
Normally no problem with both on same circuit. But if you read instruction manuals for the appliances they sometimes say require dedicated circuit. Also have to check the total amperage under 20.
The manual says:

"This appliance must be supplied with 120V, 60 Hz., and
connected to an individual properly grounded branch circuit,
protected by a 15- or 20-ampere circuit breaker or time-delay
fuse."

The only part I'm not sure about is the word individual. Do they mean dedicated?
 

Jadnashua

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The manual says:

"This appliance must be supplied with 120V, 60 Hz., and
connected to an individual properly grounded branch circuit,
protected by a 15- or 20-ampere circuit breaker or time-delay
fuse."

The only part I'm not sure about is the word individual. Do they mean dedicated?
I would interpret that to mean dedicated. That's between you and your electrical inspector. Some DW with preheat and drying can draw a fair amount of power during that part when activated. DW work best with hotter water than most homes typically have, so there's a heating element in many of the better ones to bring the water up to optimum temp. Normal running doesn't draw all that much, but those heating cycles at the beginning (and maybe in the middle during rinse or the second wash cycle and drying) can.
 

oldberkeley

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New Question:

I have two ceiling lights in my kitchen, controlled by two switches, works fine.

I'd like to add one small can light over a prep area, controlled by the same two switches. Easiest way to do this?

TIA
 

Reach4

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New Question:

I have two ceiling lights in my kitchen, controlled by two switches, works fine.

I'd like to add one small can light over a prep area, controlled by the same two switches. Easiest way to do this?

TIA

Wire the new fixture in parallel with one of the existing fixtures.
 

Jadnashua

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Essentially, from either of the currently switched lamp assemblies, add another cable from the light fixture's two hot leads (the white and black feeding the bulb(s)) and ground, and run them to the new lamp (make sure to connect to the lamp's wiring, not necessarily to any white/black incoming wiring). If the circuit is 20A, you need 12G wire. IF the existing wiring is on a 15A circuit, you can use 14G wire (or 12g). Note the temperature rating required for the new lamp assembly, and make sure the wire you use has at least that temperature rating.
 

oldberkeley

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OK, got the light done, that was easy, just had a brain fart--stupid question, sorry to waste your time.

Back to the under sink disposal project:

Using a 20A single outlet. Putting it on a seperate 20A, 12G circuit. No GFCI, switched above the counter.

Got the switch installed, got the 12G run from breaker box to under kitchen sink to switch, all good there and ready to install the outlet box and connect things.

My questions:
1. Not sure if in this situation there is a special/correct type of outlet box that I should use.
2. Not sure about actually mounting the box:
A. In the wall like a normal outlet box, then a box-sized cutout on the back of the new cabinet, then a faceplate attached?
B. On the cabinet back itself, holes cut in the drywall and cabinet back for the 12G?
C. Any type of special/correct type of connector and/or metal flexible conduit needed?

TIA.
 

Cacher_Chick

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If you are using NM wire, it must be fished through the wall (cannot be left exposed in the cabinet). The cabinet back and wall is to be cut for a single device box for old work. If you are using MC or BX, it must be terminated with the proper fitting or clamp at the box.
 

oldberkeley

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If you are using NM wire, it must be fished through the wall (cannot be left exposed in the cabinet). The cabinet back and wall is to be cut for a single device box for old work. If you are using MC or BX, it must be terminated with the proper fitting or clamp at the box.
I am using NM. I realize that it can't be left exposed in the cabinet, that's why one of my ideas was flexible metal conduit.

I understand your suggestion, but just to be clear, would this also be acceptable: drilling two small holes through the cabinet back and drywall and passing the supply and switch wires through; using the rear knockouts on a metal outlet box and two button plastic push-in connectors; fastening the box directly to the cabinet?
 

Cacher_Chick

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You can use a listed surface-mount box, but the wiring needs to be properly secured with a cable staple within 12" of of the box in addition to the clamps on the box. When using a metal box, you are required to pigtail the egc to the box using the proper machine-thread screw.
 
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