hp vs. bladder type tank

[bobmac]

blast from the past.

here's what i've got..

1. Pump:
Make: Duro Shallow Well
Series: B251
Serial Number: B-23013

2. Motor:
Leland 1/4 HP x 1725 R.P.M.
60 Cycle x 1 Phase
Type: KS21
Serial Number: FC-10980

3. Tank:
Galvanized Steel.
Working Pressure: 85 psi
Height: 21"
Diameter: 16"
Capacity: ~ 13 Imperial Gallons

Everything runs like a top, but the tank has sprung a pinhole leak. I was going to repair it, but figure it will probably spring some more leaks. It's time to replace it.

The pump is an older piston pump, not a jet pump. Works like a charm.

I've been advised to use a true HydroPneumatic tank, with no bladder, because a piston pump tends to push air into tank.

My question is ,

1. what is the impact/effect if I were to use a bladder type tank with a piston pump ?

 

[Ballvalve]

I would get out the JB weld and a sander and a good screw with rubber washer and repair the leak. Some use wood plugs.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[bobmac]

thanks for the fix idea, but it doesn't answer my question, especially when I eventually go to shop for a replacement tank.

 

[Waterwelldude]

Using a hydro Pneumatic tank would be the way to go in your case.
There is a hole on the side of the tank to place an "air release". That way if your pump put too much air in, the air release will let out the excess.

Trying to patch an old tank is a waste of time.
It can be done and may buy you some time, but it will spring another hole in a short time.
You would be better off just replacing it.

 

[bobmac]

noted.. I can't seem to find a Gould or Wellmate tank that is an HP (without a bladder)
with the dimensions I need (see tank description in first post).

Can anyone recommend/suggest a tank and where I can buy one ?

 

[Valveman]

Try this link; http://www.quicktanks.com/

I think the one you need is a Q30V.

 

[bobmac]

thanks valveman, I'll give them a call.

alternatively, is there any reason why a used hotwater tank (15-20 gallon with about the same dimensions as my old
galvanized tank) wouldn't do the trick ? (I wouldn't put power to it - just use it as a storage tank) It has a water in and water out with the same 3/4" thread, and I could thread in my existing pressure gauge/valve (turns pump on when pressure goes below 40psi, and kicks off at 60psi) to replace the hwt pressure relief valve. My existing main line out, has a pressure relief valve built in..

aren't most hot water tanks rated for more than 85psi ?

 

[Valveman]

It is hard to keep the air you need in a water heater tank, because it has fittings on top. Even a plugged hole on top of a tank can leak air, even though it won't leak water. Most "hydo pneumatic" tanks do not have fitting on top for this reason.

 

[Ballvalve]

Great way to recycle a water heater. Especially if your well makes air automatically.

Put your presure gauge and relief valve and maybe a ballvalve with a schrader fitting for air on the top of the water heater. Do your in and out of water through the drain valve, 3/4" FPT.

If you are very creative, one of the element ports [electric] can be adapted to a air release valve. Works for me.

But you should have a larger tank, 50 or 80 or so.

Sears still sells glasslined well tanks with a 5 year warranty. [made in a water heater factory] the advantage to a water heater tank is that it has an anode, and can outlast the well tanks. Funny thing is, water heaters are getting to be cheaper than well tanks lately.