Recent content by sschoe2

Mine does too but it doesn't get enough purchase on the nut to turn it. It slides on the teeth on the fixed part. The typical basin wrenches I see at the box store say up to 1.5" nuts.

That gold nut though doesn't look like it is designed to interact with the lock nut that is currently on there. I think there is usually a washer that goes between it and the gasket and the screws press up against the washer which presses against the gasket. It looks like the locknut is a...

Hi my house came with this kitchen faucet that has always been loose. The nut underneath the sink is 2" or more and I haven't found a tool that can get purchase enough to tighten it. I tried a basin wrench, the Rigid type faucet install tool no go. There is also this gold looking thin nut I...

I have a shower valve in my house that I am unable to identify. The overflow plate says Gerber but I can find no identifying markings on the shower valve, I am not sure if it is Moen or what. It pulls out to turn on and right is hot and left is cold. I assume there is a shower cartridge that I...

I am just not sure why it is still able to rotate a very slight bit when I apply a significant force. I am hoping a good bead of silicone will help it not want to rotate at all. However it does not rock anymore when someone sits on it. I saw Steve in the video used a cedar shim. I was...

The house is 2004 so everything was PVC, no cast iron. In the Video Steve has a cast iron Flange he is repairing. The Spanner Flange was metal almost all the repair products are metal. I assume that the toilet can just as easily rotate in the original flange channels so securing the spanner...

Yes I was looking at the Oatey Red one that has screw bosses out further. I couldn't find anything solid under the lip of the flange to screw anything to. SF=Spanner Flange It is this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Water-Closet-Repair-Flange-PSF-100/100372312 I didn't think it would be...

So I had a rocking toilet and wanted to change the no-name one that came with the house and was clogging frequently to an American Standard. I figured the PVC flange was cracked and bought a metal ring and a spanner flange. I could not find anything solid under the lip of the flange to screw to...

I have a question on resuing fittings after you desolder them. I am finding that the female fitting tends to have little beads of solder inside that make it impossible to fit the new pipe/male fitting inside. Is there any way to remove it?

Someday I am going to have to replace my water heater and want to be ready. I live in Illinois and the stupid code won't let me use the yellow flex lines. I've never worked with black gas pipe before. I work with gas lines at work (Gas Chromatography Chemist) but it is all 1/16", 1/8", or 1/4"...

I have copper piping and was wondering what the purpose of the branches of short lengths dead end/capped pipes in various locations were.

So I finally gave up on salvaging the hot old gate valve on my washing machine and ended up cutting out both valves repiping it with copper and a new WM ball vallve. I now can't figure out how to secure it. There is a very heavy duty sturdy gas and a sump pipe. My only idea is use 3 heavy duty...

The valve started leaking again and the more I messed with it and the teflon rope the worse it got until I finally gave up and re-piped. I have some questions on supporting it that I will post on another thread.

Here is what that run of pipes to the WM looks like. The only part that I haven't figured out is how to properly anchor it. I am fine sweating copper pipe.

I fixed it. I took it apart and there was a #0 flat washer at the base that was hard, deformed, and pieces were coming off in my hand. The sealing gasket was in similar shape. I replaced the washer and put some ptfe packing rope between the packing nut and old gasket. It was built identical to...