Recent content by saabturbodrivr

I guess if the existing copper is no good or a pain to deal with, something like this would be appropriate...

Hi folks, My dishwasher has a slow leak, even when it is not being used. I took a look under there, and it is clearly the water inlet valve (WD15X10014). I watched some videos...seems like something I can easily replace myself. part is cheap enough. I noticed that the water supply going...

To be honest, I probably at least partially caused that solder connection to break... That radiator has always been a problem...needing to be bled every 3 weeks or so. I noticed that the bleed side was pitched lower than the supply side. There was some play in the pipes. If I simply yanked...

So the guy from the heating company repaired the leak. In doing so, a leak was created on the other side (input side). Also, the convector failed to heat after the repair (all others heated up just fine, and convector in question is the first on the system). So, he re-drained the system and...

Thanks guys! I have my heating company coming to look at it momentarily. They said they dont really do plumbing, but depending what is required, they may be able to do it...I'd take a fix to hold me until a plumber comes. Local plumbers, most of them are not working today and said to call the...

Additional info... Apparently the on/off valve for the covector DOES work...but it does not do what I expected it to do. I've had it off a while and the radiator is ice cold...and still was leaking. I just turned it on and the radiator immediately become hot and I heard a little bubbling. On...

Hello, I have a leak coming from what appears to be a broken solder joint on the output (return?) pipe that leaves one end of an upstairs bedroom heating convector. These are monoflow hot water recessed convectors. I tried to turn off the valve on the convector...it does not seem to work...

Thanks guys...Smooky that is my faucet...and jadnashua, it does have set screw on the side of each handle. It wasn't clear to me if I need to turn the water off before messing with it...and if removing that set screw would even let me push the handle down further...or if some aspect of the...

So I guess the consensus is I should not mess with it and call the contractor back if that really bothers me? Also, I read that for my new faucets, a deck thickness of over 1 and 1/8" requires a delta faucet extension kit (https://www.build.com/delta-rp10612/s668489?uid=190545) That does not...

I guess maybe I'll call the guy back then. Would you have that fixed? Everything seems to work good...it just ruins the nice look to me a tad...noticeable to me at least. Thanks!

Hi guys, Please see the pic below...the cold water handle sits high relative to the base compared to the hot...(and also compared to both handles on the same model faucet in an adjacent bathroom.) Is this an easy adjustment? Just loosen that set screw on the handle, push it down, and tighten...

Pretty sure I can visualize that now. Seems pretty simple and straightforward. I wonder what the reason was for the insistence that the flexible accordion thing was the only viable option.

Cool...not bad. Curious, why would you say a "piece or two" of tubular 1.5"? Wouldn't it just be 1 piece cut to length? (I'm a novice here to humor me...I've installed a faucet and drain or two, but those were straight forward). And that 1.5" would just be plain piping, and I'd cut to to size...

Do you mean use 2 45's to approximate the 2 curves of the accordion piece and then a straight 1.5" tube down into the P-trap?

Hello, I'm having some bathrooms in my home renovated. Apparently my sinks have their drains set back pretty far to the rear...and the sinks themselves were set back rather far in the vanity top. So, my contractor said it made the drain assembly difficult...and he had to use an accordion type...