Recent content by Plant.One

i have to agree - i would have a hard time trusting a 60 year old anything that you dont have 100% history on (as in you've owned it the whole time) as potable water storage solution. maybe if it was a super duper grade of stainless and you could 100% ensure that it could be sanitized and...

you got your moneys worth out of it with 20 years of service. just replace it before you spend $100 attempting to repair a $200 problem and still end up replacing the toilet in the end anyway. because then you've thrown $300 at a $200 problem. instead of just doing it right the first time.

push to connect fittings (sharkbite is a brand name) are good for copper or pex. on my expierence - those valves dont age well at standard room temps. they bind up, and in general fail over time, significantly sooner than a brass valve will anyway. just install a good quarter turn valve in...

have you considered sharkbite fittings? i sure wouldnt want to use PVC valve like that underground.

what jeff said. just shut the toilet off and take it out of service when not in use. if its the only toilet in the home, then water on/off at use to minimize risk until replacement parts arrive. rough way to have to do, but limits liability to damage to your home.

sounds like a mfg just looking for a cheap out on any warranty coverage. with a good quality membrane it shouldn't matter. it'll handle the salt - as well as it'll handle untreated hard water. they may be talking 2 years of life instead of 3+. but they're not talking weeks/months vs years...

thats exactly what happened to mine. dime size hole in the steel nipple. the pump was just recirculating water into the well casing nonstop and would never build enough pressure above the check valve for the pressure switch at the bladder tanks to shut it off. ended up killing the pump. damn...

Close and the same are not equal. Fuel air mixtures need to be precise. That means the oriface size needs to be precise. Not close. Precise. Even being off by a few thousandths in diameter could be enough % wise to not be functional anymore - especially at minimum delivery levels where the...

i cant agree with you more. we've tried to talk them into it for decades now. mom has always been on board, but dad is stubborn and with an opinion on them like a 60 year old bear trap you found in the woods. rusted shut and you couldn't budge it with a prybar.

you never did only say get a test, but it was recomended, and i did so so that we had facts to deal with instead of speculation of what was in the water. its not a ton of staining, but over time there is. the biggest thing is whites turning rusty/dingy colored over a period of time. mom uses...

and that all came down to "you need to get a water test done before we can make recommendations" so i did :)

i cant go with a softner (dad's perception issues - he's stubborn, so just please, case closed or we'd have had one decades ago), so yes the main issue is some iron staining (mild), taste, and sulfur smell. i was under the assumption that the sulfate value was somehow tied to the H2S issue...

anyone? i'd really appreciate some input. the company's i've talked to have given me several different answers, and i'm assuming that primarily its because those are the product lines they sell.

ya... mold removal/mitigation is tens of thousands of dollars in some cases. if you can prevent that your insurance company will be HIGHLY appreciative of you as a homeowner. my cousin went thru a burst fitting in an upstairs bathroom a couple years ago. he lucked out and found it within a...

while all the advice you're given sounds great - you still have a massive water damage issue to attend to your home. take like 3 billion pictures and call your insurance company to get someone out to start the water damage mitigation. you do NOT want mold forming in your walls because you took...