Recent content by Mculik5

@John Gayewski - Thanks again!

@John Gayewski - Thanks! Good clarification on #3. I shouldn't have said "any." And "branch" probably isn't the best word for my system, either. "Hub and spoke" is probably more appropriate, meaning my HWH is in the middle of the house, and my main consumers of hot water are two bathrooms...

Remodeling a bathroom in my house. Our water heater is centrally located in the basement, and this bathroom is far from the water heater laterally and up two stories. As you can imagine, it takes a long time for HW to reach the faucets. I'm doing the supply plumbing now and would like to add a...

Good news! I tested the setup earlier tonight at 30 GPM using a submersible pump and a garbage can. Had my wife run the stopwatch. No leaks and no overflow. Been reading a lot about washer flow rates and the highest number I've seen is 22 GPM. Between that and the fact that the previous owner...

@James Henry - Thanks again! If I understand you correctly, your drawing works because the vent pipe is vertical off the tee and thus 99% above the flood plane of the floor drain. My drawing, on the other hand, doesn't work because the vent pipe runs horizontal and below the flood plane...

@James Henry @hf @Terry - Thanks again! This is going to come across as me being difficult, which is not at all my intent, but can you answer the question about the back-to-back wyes like I drew in my second picture? Is that allowed? Anything fundamentally flawed with that approach? I'm...

@James Henry - Thanks! What you've suggested would be easy to implement...BUT... Where you have the wye joining the existing pipe along the joist on the left is already quite high towards the top of the joist. I need to investigate, but it might be hard for me to keep downward pitch from the...

@Terry @hj Would what I've proposed in the second photo (with the red/yellow/blue lines) be acceptable/better? Also, I know it's supposed to be 2" and I covered why it's not 2" in the thread above and the post I linked to. Previous to this, there was a 1.5" unvented drain pipe for the washer...

@Terry - Got it! Thanks! Would this work? The blue box represents another AAV (in addition to the one that's not installed yet, which will be above the sani-T on the left side). Not the most eloquent, with two AAVs, but easy to retrofit into the current installation, and the wall boxes won't...

@Terry - Thanks for the reply. Two questions: What do you mean by "upsize to 2" sooner?" The existing plumbing is the pipe coming out from under the floor directly in front of me in the photo. As I noted in the other thread, the two options I was considering were to plumb it all in 1.5", or...

@Terry - Perfect. Thanks! Just posted a second thread for comments on the install here - https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/comments-on-my-dwv-install-please.86064/.

Renovating our second floor kids bathroom/laundry room. Had to move the laundry alcove wall back to accommodate today's larger machines. Replaced the DWV plumbing yesterday and roughed-in a floor drain as a precaution in the event the washing machine ever has an issue. Care to comment on my...

Renovating our bathroom/laundry room. Replumbing the washer drain because I had to move the wall back. The old drain was 1.5” with no vent that ran ~10’ to a side inlet closet bend. I’m NOT taking up all the subfloor and replacing the closet bend in order to upgrade the whole thing to 2”. It...

Planning a bathroom reno and looking at tubs. We have a standard 60" x 30" alcove situation. Going to go with an acrylic tub - probably a Kohler Archer - so as not to have to deal with the weight of cast iron. I'm a bit concerned about the strength/flexibility of acrylic and have also heard...

Thanks for all the feedback. @mliu - I'm taking your suggestion - SureSeal and antifreeze. I'm installing a 2" Kerdi-Drain. Ordered a SureSeal online and it arrived yesterday. Fits perfectly and seems like it might provide some measure of backflow prevention, too. I'm using Ditra on the floor...