Recent content by Mae-Ling

Here is a picture of it.

My water meter and connected pipes are to high for the planned counter top. It comes up from the concrete basement floor, then after the pressure reducer, meter, and shut offs (this all takes it to 43 inches off the floor) then there is a elbow and it goes 12 inches into the wall. I need it to...

Unfortunately what they do is cut the flow to match the lower flow. Yes they keep.you from being scalded. What I want is something that gives the showers priority. Surely a.manifold.could be made to dothis. so when water is flowing through a certain output or outputs the water available to...

Much easier said than done. Someone is in shower upstairs and downstairs sink gets used or whatever.

The toilets I could do. The kitchen sink and vanities are the issue. I would not want to reduce the amount of water used.

Ok I bypassed the 1/2 inch line and now i have 3/4 inch line (trunk) feeding the 1/2 inch lines going to the shower. And 1/2inch line (trunk) feeding 1/2 branches to the kitchen sink, vanity and toilet. It is a little better but still the shower loses water and goes hot if cold water is used...

I have the3/4 inch line and fittings all ready to do a 3/4 main in a loop and have all the 1/2 inch come off of it. Or I could buy a manifold.

I do have a 3/4 main line... it goes to the water heater as 3/4 then reduced to 1/2 after it comes out. The cold is also reduced to 1/2 inch before it branches to each fixture. If I keep the trunk at 3/4 and branch off at 1/2 inch to the fixtures will that help. I could even loop the 3/4...

Right now I have 1/2 inch copper pipe trunk and brach piping. When water is used by something else the shower upstairs gets cold or hot. I am totally redoing my basement and would like to solve this issue. How can I best.give the showers upstairs and downstairs priority so they get water...

My nortiz on demand heater gives a code 90, not sure if it has always done it as the previous owner just put in the unit before we bought the house, it does it more in winter then summer but has always done it. Had a plumber look at it and he thought (s well as another friend who is a plumber)...

I descaled it and took out cleaned and reinstalled the filter on the cold inlet. now i get no hot water it just runs cold. Tank, water and gas is on. Temp is set to 50c. If i remember correct the red light on the unit used to be on steady. Now it does not come on at all. I can not remember...

Old pressure relief was 201f and 150psi(?) just going from memory, replaced it with the same and seems to be fine now. Thanks

I have a Tankless heater, ever since I bought the house 1.5 years ago the T&P valve has been discharging slightly when you turn off a hot water tap. I was told this is normal. Is it? Now the T&P valve is leaking constant when you use hot water. The water temperature is not overly hot coming...

That looks like what a plumber told me to do for my island dishwasher. Called it a "Barbers Loop" said he preferred it to a "Island Loop". I could not find anything on it and decided to do the Island Loop.

I can use a island loop if I can come up through the floor at 10" wide then use 45's to widen it to up to 30" wide. This would allow me to put the p-trap between the two upright pipes and behind the dishwasher.