Recent content by Lobanz

Generator only for emergencies. Would be nice to have an elevated tank, but my land is all totally flat. For 40 PSI, I think the tank would have to be about 93' above my house (40 / .43). If my house were at the bottom of a big hill, that might work. I may end up doing just that for drip...

I thought above 70 PSI or so was a little much for in the house. 60 PSI has been fine with us so far. I have the 60 PSI pressure regulator now with utility water because my Dad's house was flooded when a utility water pressure surge burst his washing machine hoses and flooded his house for 2...

Yes, that's the main reason I chose the Grundfos over a Franklin. I thought about putting a bypass around the CSV with a ball valve in the bypass so that I could turn the CSV on and off. Then I could see which drew use more power. At some point, I may look at a battery bank for my generator...

Also, look at THIS page from the CSV folks. It calculates that the pump will run 9 minutes at a time followed by 36 minutes of off time and it will do that 32 times a day if I leave the low flow stuff going all the time. Plenty enough time for pump cooling. And this is about the worst case...

Why does the pressure regulator after the tank nullify the CSV before the tank? The CSV still reduces cycling -- that's the only reason I have it in there. The CSV guys were happy with the diagram. Sure, it can be used to implement a constant pressure system, but it's still a "cycle stop...

Note that this is a 60/80 system with a 60 PSI pressure regulator after the tank so that there is constant pressure all the time.

The tank is to mitigate frequent cycling when the demand is less than the CSV's min flow rate of 1 gpm. I have low flow drip irrigation, potentially leaky float valves on animal watering, etc. The large tank was suggested by the extremely helpful CSV folks. I live in North Alabama and most...

OK. I've been leaning toward poly pipe, but it might be cheaper for me to do PVC because poly pipe seems to only come in 100' and 300' rolls. My drop pipe will be about 125'-130' long. I can use 50' or so to run to the house, but don't need to run 200 PSI pipe to my irrigation. So I really...

That's very good! Why didn't I think of that?! Thanks! "Make things as simple as possible, but not simpler."

If I get rid of BV2, won't my hand pump just pump water right back into the well? Seems like I need either a ball valve or a check valve to keep the hand pump pumping into the pressure tank. Like this?: Double Jacketed, Direct Burial Submersible Wire

Great info. Thanks. Didn't know there were 3-way ball valves. That would make it much easier. Will look into it. Pressure relieve ahead of the ball valve is a GREAT idea. What PSI should it be? 100? What issues with back pressure?

Yes. Read that article already. THIS one is really good too. This sounds totally doable. I think I am leaning toward Schedule 80 PVC because you can thread off each section when you pull it out, making it easier. Here's the pro's and con's of PVC and poly as I understand them now. I...

So you pump air in it until you hear it bubble (no water in the pipe only air), and then you measure the pressure. Is that right? That's quite cool.

So I don't need any really tall structure with pulley's, block and tackle, or chain hoist or whatever to pull some big heavy thing out or lower it in? I can just pull it out and lower it down by hand? Wow. THAT's a revelation. This is sounding easier than I thought.

Casing goes down to 80'. 6" Limestone hole from there. Casing is not perforated. Various places above the pump where water comes in through the limestone, but don't know exactly where. Very good. That clears things up. How tight is it against the casing? Hmmm.... Is the limestone...