Recent content by Jesse Hazel

Thank you for the advice breplum. I've been calling around today to try to get someone out and so far everyone I've tried is not taking on new customers. Fun times. Obviously I'll keep trying though.

Details: 1930's house, bathroom floors have a 3-4" mortar bed that they tiled over. Fairly certain waste pipes are lead although this one had an extreme bend at the beginning that seemed to be inset into a larger pipe after ~5". And the larger pipe had a strong green patina that sure did look...

Not sure if I win some sort of plumbing forum award for taking this long to start a project? Anyways it's been a rough 2 years, please don't judge me. Peterson was right, this is a 10" rough in. I feel like an idiot for mis-measuring it. Certainly opens up my choices in toilet size. So anyway...

Hmmm... this model might work. Looking at the spec sheet, they specify a 3/4" gap between lid and the wall (the tank looks convex so I'm assuming that 3/4" is at the apex of the curve?) So the most I could move rough in would be 11 1/4", correct? I totally agree with mocking it up first then...

Easier to attach a pic to hopefully illustrate why changing to open-out is a no-go. It's a poorly designed setup where the basement door and back door are on the other side and both open toward the bathroom. I suppose a bi-fold could work if I have to go this route. Interesting. As you can see...

Just looking for some general advice here before I start tearing anything out. Our house was built in the 1930's when toilets were apparently much smaller. We have a 1/2 bath which has an American Standard that just cracked at the rear of the bowl and leaks profusely when flushed. The only thing...