Recent content by Helper Dave

If you have a floor drain that was individually vented, that's often a solid spot to tie basement fixture vents into. It'd be nearish the floor drain, and generally the only 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" pipe going into the basement floor. Run any fixtures above, and listen/feel for drainage if you're at...

Sounds pretty normal (sorry). Dunno if it's an option for you, but here in WI, where air gaps are also required, we have the option of draining a dishwasher right to a stand pipe under the sink, too. This requires the kitchen sink line to be 2" instead of 1 1/2" (1 1/2" traps for the dw, and...

We do our own thing here in WI, but it is similar to the bigger codes in places, so I don't know if IPC specifies this like our code does, but so long as you roll the initial vent fitting up past the spring line, the vent can run under the slab until you need to bring it up. Only wall outlet...

There's a p-trap under your shower, so there will always be water sitting there. If running your shower doesn't very quickly back up your shower, that's not the problem. If it doesn't seem to be a wax ring problem, and this one's a little outta left field, but we have run across renos where...

We use 1 1/4" 2-hole straps on 1/2" with the foam tube insulation; 1 1/2" straps for 3/4" insulated.

Yeah, what you read about dry fitting is wrong. Plumbers don't work that way. You can dry fit a fitting or two just to see if it looks about right, but you gotta trust your measurements, and glue as you go. Once you've got a fitting where it needs to be, you glue, and carry on measuring...

Minimum trap arm length is indeed 2x pipe diameter in WI [SPS 382.31 (9)(b)]. That's from the trap weir to the vertical portion of vent, and it looks like you have it. You'll get dinged for not having a cleanout on that stack. A 3" cleanout would need to be added above the double tee (28"-60"...

Sounds like a low pressure problem. If no clogs in the faucet, have you tried putting a braided supply on the stops, and turning them on (pointed into a bucket)? The clog could be in the valve there, or further down the line.

No way to say. Could have been replaced for a number of reasons, so you can't know how much was replaced without getting eyes on it. You could pop a hole in the wall, and get an inspection camera in there if you've got one. Otherwise, drywall replacement can be cheaper.

Late reply ... still having this problem? What kind of pipes do you have supplying the shower? Another little test could help you out. Take the cartridge out, and have someone slowly turn your main valve on as you watch the water come straight outta the valve body. Put a towel around it so you...

Dig the videos so far, and I like that logo. Tempted to grab up a hoodie.

Yeah, you're not getting plastic in that CI. I'd do what James said.

I would want that shower bar more or less centered on the drain. How's that all line up at the moment?

Pics, brand, details? All that would help. Generally, though, DO NOT CUT faucet supply lines. They all come way too long. You just loop them to connect to your shut off valves.

Pull the wood out. Don't want anything that can rot under there. We do our shower blocks 8"x8", so 12" is great. It's nice to leave it open for setting the shower. If your measurements were off at all, you can use offsets on the riser to correct it, too.