Recent content by Fistor

Ah, great point hehe, I'll check when I get home - thnx for quick reply.

Hi all - A while since I've been here, but I have a strange "problem", if you will, that popped up a few weeks ago... In my kitchen, I have a lightswitch that operates a single, overhead light (a fluorescent bank). I've lived in this house now for 6 years, and until a few weeks ago...

Same problem for me, exactly... The issue here is, like some people mentioned, the "instructions" that came with the kit are pictorial only - which is fine, because like the other guy, I too am an engineer, and am used to reading drawings. The problem is, no dimensions whatsoever were...

Regarding your first photo, and the incomplete coverage of the stem, I have the exact same issue on a handle that I am installing - the "adapter" that one is supposed to use for a "thick" wall (i.e.one with tile over cementboard) sticks out way too far. The instructions are just pictures...

great to know... I'll give it a try... after all, what have I got to lose? The tank was only $88... not too bad, and it'll give me some piece of mind. Thanks for the tip, I'll let you know how it works out!! Carl

Good point... my only fear is placing the thing under stress, and it breaks sometime when I'm not home - anyone have that experience? Or, if it is going to break, will it break only when tightening? (mmm... maybe I'm just being paranoid...):(

OK, I have attached my tank... it is almost in contact - maybe 1/16 in gap... but I am a little afraid to tighten any more... it got to the point that I had difficulty in my arms tightening any more (using the factory nut driver)... The tank is pretty solid, but not "rock" solid as you...

Well, you hit on the weird thing -- there is no tapered end!! One end is "open", and sets into the plastic ring on the bottom of the tank. The other side is flat, supposedly to seat in the bowl portion. I agree with you - something doesn't seem right - my understanding (and you seemed...

Well, there was enough confusion on my part (and some in the replies) that I went ahead and ordered a replacement thermostat - I probably would have anyway, but I wanted the feedback. Yeah, I agree leejo, although if the mat is 120V, then that would be the "limiting factor", would it not...

Tank sits too high on spud gasket - ??? Hi All - Just putting in a new toilet - an American Standard Cadet 3 (based on reviews I have read here and general availability where I live). I got a 2-piece version - the round bowl (3011) and a tank (4007). They are both "Cadet 3" line, sold next...

Excellent replies guys, they were the kind of feedback I need.... That was the one thing I was really worried about - whether or not the electronic controls (and they are) could handle the difference. I agree with your comment about current draw, but it looks like the specs say that...

Hey, thnx Pew, I was hoping someone would say that... not sure why I got the 240-V, but I had thought that since the load was in the mat, maybe my mistake was recoverable... Oh, and yes, I do have the floor sensing one - I already installed the thermostat lead with the mat. Thnx again...

Hi all - This is probably an obvious question, but my bathroom is being renovated, and the mat (Honeywell 10-15B-120H) is rated for 120V. A separate 20A circuit was installed for this. The thermostat that was purchased is a Honeywell also (Honeywell HWF1GB-15-240), rated for 240V. Does...

The key to prevent frost heave (I assume you refer to this, rather than "swelling soils", which is an entirely different matter) of pavements is proper drainage. You mention "foundation", but I think you are simply referring to the driveway pavement section? (i.e. the base and subbase?)...

Thanks for all the replies, guys! I decided to go with a minor sanding after the first coat, just to remove the obvious lines and any minor bump, plus a quick overall sand. The second coat is now drying, so we'll see tomorrow how it looks. Because this is my first time drywalling, I plan to...