Recent content by Dixon

OK, so I expect my next move will be to setup another intake system, all glued, pump and see what happens. Thanks for the input so far...

I understand what you are saying and I want to make sure we are on the same sheet. I heard air on two occasions. First event was when I broke the seal between the union and the pump and I heard air for a quick moment (either sucking or blowing). Second event was a few minutes later when I broke...

Yesterday, when I separated the intake plumbing I of course started by first separating the union to disconnect the pump from the well. I could hear alot of air sucking into the pipe/pump as I slowly separated the union. Likewise, when I secondly unscrewed the check valve slowly from the casing...

My last visit to the forum was about 3 years ago and was about the same well. We fixed it then, hopefully we can solve it now. To recap: The residential well is 33 years old, 27' deep, and in the Atlantic Coastal Plain Aquifer (sand/fine gravel). The well has a 2" casing with a 1 1/4" check...

I'm away from the house now but can give it a try later, likely tomorrow...

No GFCI. The ground wire I clamped around had @ 6" free length from the motor to the cord. I moved the clamp up and down the free running length and the reading did vary somewhat, .05 to .10 The meter is a compact, 100 amp clamp, inexpensive but reliable I believe.

I havn't reconnected/primed the SNE to test current leak at ground but I did put another pump together, a used Sta-Rite SND and tested it. SND Data plate indicates 6.2 max amps, I measured 5.1 pumping wide open and 5.38 amps with the discharge valve nearly closed (50 + psi). The clamp meter on...

Gotcha, wire directly. Too easy. Also, wouldn't a simple resistance test between L1/ground, L2/ground with a multimeter indicate a short in the windings?

Thanks for the advise folks. I did ground the motor while testing but did not test for current through ground. That can be done. One question when bench testing without a pressure tank Is there anyway to prevent pressure switch chatter as I approach cutoff pressure while closing the discharge...

Got around to rebuilding/testing a Sta-rite SNE-L, 1 hp shallow pump. Cleaned all parts, treated volute interior with 0spho. Impeller/diffuser looked good enuff so they're in it. Replaced mechanical seal, splash seal, and volute to back plate seal. Pretty paint on pump, not motor. Test run...

" You will need the foot valve just to get it primed, and just wire to the output side of the pressure switch for the test." Gotcha Valveman. Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'm developing a household "how to" notebook and your information is filling the well so to speak.. My...

Thank you gentleman for your advise. "I don't know how fancy your test setup should be." Fancy is definetely not me, In my book KISS is the way to go. I'm guessing simple would be to eliminate the check/foot valve and pressure switch? All I really want to know is amperage draw under load and...

I want to test a couple of used shallow well pumps and would like a brief tutorial on the best method. I have an amp meter, verified pressure gauge, electrical supply and an adequate water reservoir with supply/return plumbing. A ball valve is installed on the pump discharge side and a 30/50...

Exactly my thoughts. The disassembly was educational and the knowledge may benefit me at some point, however I also learned a pump with any age likely isn't worth ordering replacement parts for. This is the second Sta-rite I've found in this condition and there is one more to go... probably same...

Thanks Valveman. Allowing it to sit overnight, and a couple of taps with a thin screwdriver easily freed it. The cast seal plate has alot of corrosion along the edge mating with the diffuser. Am I correct to think this would cause excessive clearance and degrade performance? Also I cannot find...