Recent content by DannyDan

I'm starting to suspect that perhaps the issue was never the refill valve, but rather the flapper (which I currently don't have a replacement part, so I shut off the water for the time being). It's possible that messing around with removing the original valve has disturbed the delicate seal...

Ok maybe not strange and I'm dumb. My Toto Drake toilet was hissing so I purchased a brand new fill valve assembly (TSU99A.X) and replaced it per the instructions. Everything seemed fine until I noticed water is leaking out of the bowl and onto the floor, somehow. I thought perhaps the rubber...

I'm not sure, but this only cost $150 and I'm very happy with the solution as I already had the matching trim kit for this valve.

Alright, I hired a plumber to take care of this, since I didn't feel confident enough to do it myself. Here are the results, let me know what you guys think...

Thanks. I was mainly concerned that if the entire copper pipe (I guess what you guys refer to as "riser"?) needs to move back, then so does the elbow at the top. Which means the shower neck gets pulled back further into the wall, and some of the integrity of the waterproofing / tile / thin set...

I was thinking, since the copper goes through 2 horizontal blocks, perhaps it's easier to cut it in between and then use pex to connect the remainder to the valve? Otherwise I'd have to elongate both blocks and relocate the drop ear... What do you think?

It's not supported, that's the interesting part. Basically the only thing holding it in place I believe is the tension from the pex and the copper pipe going through the horizontal block holes.

Do you happen to have a video / photo of this? I was having a hard time following this idea, to be quite honest :)

I'd say actually closer to 1/2", possibly even slightly more. Could possibly get it to down to 1/4" with shortening the retainer + handle like the builder originally did...

Wouldn't pushing the valve back bend the copper pipe that goes to the drop ear elbow? It looks like that needs to be replaced with PEX too, no?

That doesn't seem to be the case, I think. The entire valve is just sticking too far out. I recently realized that when the builder originally installed this valve they had to shorten the retainer and handle threading (probably with a hack saw or the likes) to get it flush. With the new tile...

The other side of the wall is drywall. It's the master closet. I certainly wouldn't mind having a panel there for permanent access. Sounds like a clever idea.

One other question - plumber is telling me this is the tile's guy fault for not roughing in correctly. Is there truth to this?

Hey folks, Quick question - is it actually possible to pull the valve back without bending the pipes? I have another plumber telling me that the only solution is to install a new valve.

I believe a plumber should be able to access the valve. Just requires cutting a hole through the drywall on the back. How difficult of a job is it to pull that valve back a bit?