Recent content by Cwilliams2000

The elbow is stainless and the tank threaded connection is steel, idiotic design. But so is their warranty that says they aren't responsible for any damage, even when it's a product failure. Wouldn't that be great if car companies could put that line and think they are exempt from being sued...

You're right this was the first I didn't have a union for, sometimes they leak after time and I didn't really think the tank was a risky item. Amtrol confirmed that the threads on the tank are just unpainted steel, so I have no idea how thats supposed to be good for longevity since it will help...

Maybe thats Rhode Island stainless steel then

At this point I may have someone else do it I can't be worrying about the bottom of tanks rusting out. It figures too this was othe one time I didn't do a well tee with a union, since its never been helpful in the past. I guess if I stick with Amtrol I need to plan to replace it often. The...

After getting amtrol tanks for 30+ years I am done. The last order took 4 tanks before getting a dent free unit. all due to inadequate packaging. Now here is the tank, leaking and looking terrible after 11 months! Rusted out threads, bottom of the tank already showing rust through and leaking at...

Have you ever seen a setup like this? The system is all pretty old and likely needs replacing but having the pressure switch like that seemed very strange to me, but maybe not?

I have one of these in my house, but it got installed without the hydrocharger which definitely limits what it can do for iron removal. I did a rebed on the media, and one immediate thing I got was PH around 10.0, I spoke with Cuno who said this could be normal at first and then drop after a...

Ok so I clearly jinexed myself. So this morning I went down to find a small puddle under the well pipes. I really as surprised since I felt like I really took my time, cleaned every threaded fitting, 3 wraps of tape, and megaloc on top, and really got them nice and tight. Well....turns out...

Tis done! Definitely a pain getting the water out of the old tank but I was fortunate and all the connection points were able to be unscrewed cleanly, so I replaced the tank, tee and check valves and other bits. No leaks looks good and finally the pump doesn't run for 15 seconds at a time...

The final connection is a 1 1/4" to 1" threaded male and that goes into a threaded shut off valve. If I can get that one apart then I just have to thread everything together which would be easier not sure if they will come apart cleanly though.

I am planning to replace the tank I just realized last week had failed in my house (waterlogged). Its a pro source 50 gallon, I bought a well xtrol 62 gallon, I also bought a new T as well as the valves around it and a new pressure switch and gauge. The total was abotu $760 which was far from...

There definitely isn't 12" around it, but perhaps 8-10", I will check the size again since it may be 2" maybe I am wrong there. Thank you the reply though I will get a pic also

I have a partially finished basement bathroom with a 1.5" drain line stubbed out underneath the surface level on the concrete floor. All the work from there is done, goes into an ejector pump that the current working sink and toilet use. I was thinking, installing the shower will be easy but...

I am planning to replace a failed well pressure tank and part of the install will involve a few 1" close nipples. I have to be honest I have always dreaded these and always been able to find a hex version which seem terrific to me, but this is obviously due to the fact I don't know how to put...

I think I am having a hard time understanding how they work, it looks like they restrict flow to match what is being drawn and sounds good, but it would seem that the pump was intended to pump at full flow, not be held back, maybe I am missing something?