Recent content by CharlieM

I am facing a similar situation with back-back toilets that were built with a double-fixture fitting. We are installing two new toilets with 3" flush valves. There is not much room underneath for additional plumbing. An additional run as Terry describes would involve drilling new 3" holes...

Despite the felt issue, I would still suggest reading the instructions. I'm glad to hear they now ask for a mortar bed. If this is one of Sterling's "no-caulk" units, then I wouldn't caulk it except for the little part on the ends where the instructions say to caulk. Caulking other places only...

According to current code, it is a no-no. It wasn't always so and there are tons of existing homes with wet vent arrangements working fine; have been since they were built; and likely to continue.

Thanks HJ, Sorry, my terminology is probably mangled. I think we may be talking about the same thing. The flange is glued into the inside of what you are describing as the "hub" end of the elbow. I looked up "spigot flange", and that is the situation I have. The OD of the flange sits...

Hello, I will be tiling a bathroom floor - raising the height approx 1" above the subfloor and need to deal with the toilet flange height. Current toilet flange arrangement is fastened to the subfloor. The 3" ABS flange is an inside glue into the "bell" of an ABS street elbow. I can't tell...

You might get away with one 20amp based on load, but.. GFCI is generally not required for dedicated appliance. - fridge, microwave. I would put lighting on a general lighting circuit. For outlets in wet area, I would run a separate 20a circuit and put on GFCI. The other outlets for...

+1 hj's suggestion. I had the same situation. Had my plumber remove old flange. I tore out and replaced subfloor, then membrane and tile. My plumber came back and leaded in a new flange on top of the tile. The longest time was heating the the lead pot.

Acrylic surrounds don't sit flat to the wall except for the screw flanges. IMO it would be impossible to trim one down which essentially removes the flange. I would tile it. Charlie

For lots of damaged paper and nicks/gouges, I found the best method is to sand things lightly getting all of the loose edges removed. Then go over it with something like Zinsser Gardz to seal it all, followed by skim coating with drywall mud. The sealant will help keep the mud from bubbling.

I don't know why your contractor would not homerun the cable unless there are pathway issues along the way which can happen in remodels. I'm not a pro, but as far as I know from my reading of NEC, junction box is permissable as long as it remains accessible (ie, not buried behind drywall, etc).

Update on this saga. Plumber and bath shop lady show up at my home to address my complaints with installation (no apron support installed, mortar improperly installed). Out comes 4 big cans of expanding foam and pumped behind the apron of the tub and they called things fixed. Three days...

Most models come with a brace that extends out from the body of the tub and snaps onto the apron to support it. For others, the installation instructions say to put 2x4 blocks behind the apron. I guess mileage and opinions vary with products. I've read good reviews and comments about...

Thank you for your response. The whole bathroom is 60" wide - kitchen on one side, bedroom wall on the other so there is no real access to the underside of the tub. Is it possible to remove the tub spout and shower valve cover, pull the tub and reset it ? It has a new delta valve assembly...

I had a contractor install a new Sterling Advantage bathtub with 3 piece surround. The subfloor had about 3/8" slope from rear to drain end, and about 1/4" slope or slightly less from back to front. He said he never uses mortar underneath these tubs, but I insisted that was the most reliable...

Terry is right - assuming the floor is flat and level, otherwise there will be voids, or the tub will be twisted and it will flex. In this case, the Sterling instructions suggest using a mortar bed. Charlie