Recent content by BostonDIYer

Got it. All of that makes sense. Is there any problem with having differential levels of insulation on different walls of the house? There are areas below 4' cantilevers that would be easy to better insulate from the outside, which could accommodate an unlimited amount of continuous exterior...

I've been considering all of this and have learned a lot more about my house after opening up some walls. As it turns out, the walls are 2x4 and not 2x6, and have a combination of poly vapor barriers and foil faced insulation, due to a variety of interior wall finishings (wood and sheetrock). I...

There's enough room for a small attic/crawlspace, but there's definitely no access from within the house - not even a scuttle. I ordered an extension ladder, so I'll be able to check for soffit vents in a few weeks. I can confirm there is a ridge vent, though. Below is a picture of the side of...

Hi Dana, Thanks for the advice - the window info is very useful. Now that I've closed on the house I was able to take a closer look as well as take some measurements. It appears the house has 2x6 walls with an vapor barrier against the interior finish (it looks like clear poly). I thought it...

Based on pictures I took, I'm 95% sure they're 2x4 walls. I have some reason to believe they are foil-faced batts, but have no idea what specific R value. Probably whatever was typical around 1975. I don't believe there is any vapor barrier other than the foil face. I'm planning on replacing...

From what I gather, NH had no statewide building code until 2002. The town where I'm buying the house definitely didn't have one. So I won't know what the wall assembly is like until I open it up. And it's probably worth it to upgrade what's there. Any advice on a retrofit wall assembly in this...

Hi all, I'm buying a home in central NH (Climate Zone 6) that was built in 1975. There are issues with water infiltration through the siding that I will need to address shortly after closing on the purchase - most likely, the siding will need to be replaced all around the house, and it's...

The rise would actually probably only be 4-5 feet, with a horizontal run of ~10-12 feet. Vertical run would be immediate and horizontal run would then have a downward slope to the sewer connection. I'd have to dig out the concrete to make a pit (I'd make a full pit with concrete sides and a...

I have a question - probably mostly theoretical, but bear with me. I've been looking at direct-mount laundry tub pumps like this one. My question is, in theory, is there any reason one of these couldn't be mounted directly below a shower stall rather than under a sink?

It's looking like I'm going to have about 15 inches of clearance from the front of the toilet to the wall. I am aware that various codes require 21 inches. However, it's my understanding that Massachusetts does not have a prescriptive standard for plumbing fixture clearances. If anyone can...

On second thought, I just noticed the line branches off before this to another 3/4" copper line going to the garden hose. Would installing a 3/4" pex tee kill the pressure to the garden hose (even if nothing was being used in the bathroom)?

One (hopefully) final question: The water meter hooks up to a 3/4" copper pipe above the oil tank, which then runs to the rest of the house. My plan was to change the 3/4" copper to 3/4" pex, install a tee, and connect that to a closed 3-port manifold (3/4" in, 1/2" out) for cold water supply...

Hi Dana, Thanks for the reply. As far as the pipes, I was more worried about condensation forming on them than them freezing up. They've never frozen before, and I'm insulating the rim joists, so the basement is going to be more insulated. It generally doesn't get too cold in the winter. Do...

Hi Dana Everything worked out very well. The two rooms are done now, floating laminate is installed, it's survived the humidity of the summer quite well, especially since a constant-drain dehumidifier keeps humidity at around 50%. Now I'm moving on to the bathroom. Here's my diagram: The...

Interesting about the approved product list. The sewer line exits the house about 3 ft above the basement floor, it sticks out of the exterior wall right at the bottom of my diagram in the unfinished area. It runs parallel to the joist above it, which is under the upstairs bathroom wet wall...