Recent content by BMWpowere36m3

Well, HD had the Cree TW series retrofits… all on sale for $10 ea. Picked up 45x lights. I had a few "burning" all night at the house as I found the "color" does change somewhat. The 2700k look exactly like incandscents, maybe a little whiter and the 5000k are very white/blue. Not as blue as...

I don't think I've ever given lighting THAT much thought... Honestly like I said, the only things that come to mind if I "critique" light is a lack of it and possibly the warmth. However that said, the house I grew up in the lights were a hodgepodge throughout.... baths with halogens, CFLs...

Well, let's not be dramatic... haha. I've been in rooms with incandescent lighting, CFL, LED, etc... never altered my mood. The only things I've noted is that incandescents generally provide a "warm" yellowish cast and LEDs generally more bluish. The only thing that's ever bothered me is too...

Hi there, In the process of remodeling my house and I have a question on those LED retrofit lights/trims. I have a bunch of 5-6" cans in my house (~30-40). Currently I just have incandescent in them (no trim). By the time you buy trim and either PAR38 or CFLs bulbs the price rivals the LED...

A couple of notes: During the test, the contractor mentioned that 1300 CFM (@ -50 pascals) is the minimum before needing mechanical ventilation for my square footage. I'm almost positive he only used the first floor volume and did not include the basement (even though it was wide open to the...

So I got the blower door test completed today... 1670 CFM @ -50 pascals, ACH50 of 4.8-9.6 depending if I include the basement (1300 sqft each). At the moment the house has no mechanical ventilation, no finished flooring (only subfloor with gaps between sheets), drywall hung and taped, no...

I used this calculator (for walls and ceilings) and the number agrees with the values in the S/F tool… so I thought they were right. It seems to indicate with "typical" 2x4 construction with R13 insulation equals ~ R13.3 as a "composite". Since I had R15, I just plugged that in at got ~ R14.3...

Good info! Walls (2x4): R15 cavities, vapor barrier (inside), Tyvek (outside), plywood sheathing and vinyl siding (no foam board underneath). Windows and doors: all replaced (Anderson/Pella low-e) with a NFRC U-Factor averaging 0.3. Foundation: uninsulated poured concrete, with about 2-3'...

should be a double fixture:

I'm renovating my home, '56 single-story ranch ~ 1600 sqft, gutted and currently installing drywall. My plumbing supply guy turned me onto a Lochivar Knight Mod Con and Crown DWH... he figured I would need a WHN085 (69 MBH IBR). The house originally had an oil-fired boiler, domestic coil...

That lower fixture (washer stand pipe) doesn't need its own vent? Aren't you technicanlly draining into the standpipe's vent if you do not install that revent?

The washer standpipe has a dedicated vent, because there is a fixture (ABS stub out between the copper lines) dumping waste into the vertical.

Yeah, I didn't read the comments here before buying them… it was name brand, Watts (floodsafe) or generic ones at HD at the time for similar cost. That's good to know about the floodsafes, I thought they had some spring-loaded check valve that might be opening/closing rapidly when the water is...

In the process of replacing a kitchen faucet I also changed the supply lines to Watts “floodsafe” ones. When the faucet is opened it thumps. I thought it was the valve in the supply line closing (quickly) when the water is first turned on and then opening... causing a thump due to that initial...

I ran into the same problem, but on a ISE Badger 5... probably 12 yrs old. It would hum when turned on and only ran if the power was ON and coaxed at the same time. If you turned it off and then back on, most of the time it would just humm again. Given its age and the look of the cutters...