Recent content by Baumgrenze

I see now I should have been more direct in my first post. Which pumps have users and plumbers found that work when the user wants to run water back from the use point to the water heater via the cold water line using an 'on demand' switch that recirculates via the cold water line and a...

I am a new duplex/cottage resident in a CCRC. I'd like install (and perhaps to promote) a working but not super expensive under the sink hot water recirculation pump, manual start, for a bathroom where at best I must run the hot water over 1 minute (a good sink full) before the water is warm...

I can see that the 'standard brands' Bemis, Church, and Mayfair all belong to the Bemis Bath Products firm. In 2020, how are these brand names really placed with respect to 'objective product quality?' Are there overlaps or is there a distinct hierarchy? I ask because we moved into a freshly...

SWong, thank you for your kind response. The sink is a Ronbow ceramic vessel Model: CB4002 Round Ceramic bathroom sink mounted on Cesarstone on 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. Should I be concerned that when the p-trap was installed in 2010 the popup tailpiece was slightly too long (1/8 -...

Thanks, SWong, for your insights. I just found out that I can edit both title and content on a discussion thread. I hope my edited title will result in more good advice from this remarkable community. I'm ready to give up on the zinc 1-1/4" slip joint nuts and replace them with quality 1-1/4"...

Does anyone have reliability experience to report on the Model 1678-20 Milwaukee Hole Hawg. I have one it is time to sell and I want to represent it honestly. I use a tool like this only a few times a year, so I have no personal basis to vouch for its reliability. I find many examples of the...

I have a leaking 1-1/4" under-sink brass drain line. It was installed with 'stock' square-cut grey washers. I did a search and found a strong recommendation for 'Han-tite" washers on the Ridgid forum. I tried searching for them and only found them at Hodes, the source cited in the Ridgid post...

And, when you replace your main shut-off use a high quality ball valve not a classical gate valve which inevitably fails to close due to precipitates blocking the bottom of the gate path.

We've been in the same house 48 years. It gets harder and harder to remember what we replaced years ago and if so, when we did it! We have a Price Pfister 4" Centerset that looks like this one on eBay, save that the handles are chrome. It currently has 00 flat washers. I took out the current...

I wanted to install a washer on a bathroom sink but the shutoff kept a steady flow so I resorted to my main shutoff. The shutoff also had a persistent packing drip. The house was built in 1955. I think this is original equipment. https://imgur.com/a/LTWoEz4 As you can see, the handle...

Thanks for the reassurance. The same electrician who installed my new service entrance also overfilled a junction box because he 'knew better than' the UEC rules, i.e., that some of the connections would 'never' carry a significant load. I learned about limits on bundling nm cables after his...

I woke up this morning with a wiring question. I realized that the wire size in the hookup whip on the oven appeared much smaller than that in the junction box supplying the power. I regretted not getting a good image or measurement on the wire size when the power was off and access was at a...

Thank you for your interest. I realize I need to supply some more information. The remodel I described was performed during the summer of 2010. Earlier this fall, the oven failed spectacularly (sizzle, pop, and smoke) and support calls suggested failure of the 'out of sight' oven heater...

For most of 20 years we cooked and baked in our kitchen using the 1950's 40 inch GE Liberator 2-oven range that came with the house when we purchased it. That range had a 3-prong plug on a heavy cord and there was a matching socket mounted on the junction box wired at 220V. If the stove needed...

As anticipated, using a screw-in socket and an extension cord I fairly quickly established that three switch combinations (up and down) gave me 120V AC at the socket and the other three gave me 0V. As far as I am concerned, this is 'case closed.' Thanks to all for participating. baumgrenze