Recent content by Ajmicek

Ok, thanks folks -- you've helped me rethink this! I'll tee the 1/2" copper in the wall, sweat on a ProPEX (F1960) fitting, and run 1/2" PEX-A to an icemaker style outlet box. It's more work, but I'd much rather do it right!

Howdy all... I gotta replace one of those terrible saddle valves behind my fridge before the inevitable calamity happens. What would a plumber prefer? Compression? Or sweat? FWIW, the saddle valve to be replaced is in a double stud wall with ~7" of depth...

I'll start repainting right now

So our bathroom had a wobbly and chipped pedestal sink, a 1994 toilet that ran endlessly and flushed very little (Kohler Wellworth -- I know, classic double flusher)... and it was like walking into an eggplant: I'd never done a bathroom, and I've done very little plumbing. But I recently...

Thanks for code section. And I may have caused some confusion -- don't know if I used the right terms for "capped" versus "cleanout". Anyway, I attached a picture of how it looks. So I should put in an access panel, or not? Or I gotta back up and get something corrected to code? Thank you!

Hello! So I moved into a house with a closet that used to be a laundry room. Back wall of the closet has a hole in the sheetrock where the washing machine outlet box used to be. In that hole: a capped DWV (and I assume supply lines, but I haven't opened the wall). I'm doing work in this wall...

Thanks for the reply! You make a good point. I made the mistake of assuming that just because the adapter was included in the box that it would be a good thing to use. :( The way I've seen it done elsewhere with this particular filter is a copper tee to a second dedicated valve, 1/4 copper...

So I recently installed the Culligan US-EZ-4 water filter under my kitchen sink. Water tastes great. I'm happy. My wife is happy. Here's how I did it: I didn't use Teflon tape: flat washers, and I with tightened metal-metal fittings to hand tight + 1/2 turn and metal-plastic a little...