Rusty Tee Fitting; Replacing Cross Fitting?

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Tong

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Hi,

I have a 1-inch rusty tee fitting. I am thinking about to replace the rusty one with a cross fitting.
Like this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BTYTKNI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

One end will connect to the water pressure relief valve. Another end will be installed a garden hose faucet so that I can use water pressure gauge from time to time.

The main configuration of the pipe system will be the same. I will replace water pressure regulator as well.

My question is whether crossing fitting is water safe? Anything I should be aware of?

This forum is very helpful!

Thanks in advance.


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Tuttles Revenge

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The fitting that you linked is absolutely not useable in a potable water system. Its black iron malleable and will rust shut in a matter of weeks.

What fittings do you have on the left side of the photo? Its nearly impossible to insert fittings into the middle of a tight threaded piping system.

Is that tee leaking? I would doubt it needs replacing even if it has some rust showing on the exterior. If its not leaking, why not install a new brass tee where the pressure relief is installed and move the pressure relief to that new tee?
 

Tong

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The fitting that you linked is absolutely not useable in a potable water system. Its black iron malleable and will rust shut in a matter of weeks.

What fittings do you have on the left side of the photo? Its nearly impossible to insert fittings into the middle of a tight threaded piping system.

Is that tee leaking? I would doubt it needs replacing even if it has some rust showing on the exterior. If its not leaking, why not install a new brass tee where the pressure relief is installed and move the pressure relief to that new tee?
Thanks. I am worried about the safety and durability.

I think I will replace the tee with a new one. The left site is the shut off valve. I do not take a picture of it.

Not sure how difficult to replace the old waver pressure regulator, nipple fitting, and tee fitting.

Will see.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Think about how threaded pipe and fittings work. They thread One direction so that you can't thread a new fitting in between 2 nipples without a union that allows you to work in the middle. So if you have a union on your left at the shut off valve, then you have a chance.

But before replacing that existing Tee.. maybe wire brush it first to see if its actually leaking, They usually don't. Clean it really good and re-paint it if its not leaking.
 

Tong

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Think about how threaded pipe and fittings work. They thread One direction so that you can't thread a new fitting in between 2 nipples without a union that allows you to work in the middle. So if you have a union on your left at the shut off valve, then you have a chance.

But before replacing that existing Tee.. maybe wire brush it first to see if its actually leaking, They usually don't. Clean it really good and re-paint it if its not leaking.
Thanks for the suggestion.

I think the tee fitting is about its day. It is not leaking at the moment. But there is an obvious water sign in there. To remove an old fitting like this is somewhat troublesome. I was thinking whether a silicon tape can seal it? But even so, I may still have to replace it in a few years.

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Reach4

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Silicone tape will not contain pressurized water.

If you wanted to extend the life of that fitting, I would use a primer made to go over rust, such as POR-15.

Otherwise, there is lot of pipe to replace.
 

Terry

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mason-pipe-wrench-1-900.jpg


You will need some of these tools if you plan on changing out the tee fitting. And if you do, consider doing it in brass.
I believe Burger has the second wrench you will need. Perry Mason is watching from his desk.

mason-pipe-wrench-2-900.jpg
 

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That photo indicates the fitting appears to be on its way out. And looking closer at your piping to the left appears to be a PRV which would have a Union fitting which would allow the system to be dismantled and put back together starting at that point.

I would be prepared to replace the gasket at the PRV. Murphys law will dictate that if you don't have a spare gasket you will need one. I would also replace all steel components with brass.
 
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