Eastman Speedflex Toilet Supply Valve Question

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DeSpeed

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I’m doing a bathroom remodel on a very old house. Replacing the shorter 12” toilet with a more comfortable 16” model and was hoping to replace the shutoff valve and supply line. It makes sense, it’s old, it’s disgustingly dirty blah blah blah. What can go wrong with that plan? A new valve is cheap! Yeah right! *insert sarcastic face here*

So I’m comfortable with some diy plumbing and even soldering copper. But I’m I’m not so ok with carpentry work.

I have this coming from the floor and am not so keen to cut it open yet. I suspect this is a chrome plated copper extension over a copper stub out but I can’t see that connection since it is lower than the floor.

I don’t think I can cut off the valve since that will not be a standard size pipe, right? So next bright idea is to replace the solid line to the toilet with a flex hose. Butttttt it is not a 1/2” or a 3/8”. What the???? I looked for supply lines that are 7/16” but nope, no way can it be that easy.

I see that fluid master has the universal line for 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2”. My question is, are these reliable? Am I on the right track? Call a pro? (As the kind Home Depot guy told me when I went to buy just a new knob. As if….!!)

Also, if I’m going to keep this grungy valve, I’d like to replace the guts to make it live a longer happier under the toilet life. Is Brass Craft compatible? I’m not able to locate my exact parts yet.

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Breplum

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Your outlet there is 1/2" compression...they make flex hoses with that end x ballcock end. Braided flex ss is fine. Fluidmaster is a decent brand, as are other name brands.
Looks like a Brasscraft stop. You can buy a new Brasscraft stop and just replace the inside works incl handle..with water shut off at the source, the hex nut can be loosened and the stem assembly unscrewed out from the body...you don't need to remove the handle, even.

supply-line-sizes-terrylove-01.jpg
 
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Reach4

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You want a digital caliper. I am partial to https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...eter/calipers/6-in-digital-caliper-63711.html

I would avoid their plastic ones (fewer digits) and their offering that does fractions (their fraction mode is useless IMO). I order batteries elsewhere.

So after you get your caliper, you can get measurements of the top thread OD, and the chrome pipe at the bottom.

I am wondering if that chrome is a dress thing over a 1/2 inch inch copper beneath. Or more likely, one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...xtension-Tube-Bell-Flange-CS41BX-C1/202047065
chrome-brasscraft-shut-off-valves-cs41bx-c1-4f_100.jpg
https://www.brasscraft.com/product/12-in-nom-sweat-x-38-in-o-d-comp-with-bell-escutcheon-2/

Do you have access from below?
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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It appears that your current valve is working by holding back pressure.

The simplest answer is to find the appropriately long 1/2" compression x toilet sized supply tube and be done with it

OR

Replace the valve by opening up the ceiling below the valve and extending new copper above the floor with a new 5/8" x 3/8" compression straight stop with new appropriately long supply tube.
 

Reach4

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I suspect the output is 3/8 compression.

"3/8 compression" thread is 9/16 24 TPI. (UNEF) 5/8 inch wrench often. Major diameter is 0.563 inch.
 

DeSpeed

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Your outlet there is 1/2" compression...they make flex hoses with that end x ballcock end. Braided flex ss is fine. Fluidmaster is a decent brand, as are other name brands.
Looks like a Brasscraft stop. You can buy a new Brasscraft stop and just replace the inside works incl handle..with water shut off at the source, the hex nut can be loosened and the stem assembly unscrewed out from the body...you don't need to remove the handle, even.

supply-line-sizes-terrylove-01.jpg

Your outlet there is 1/2" compression...they make flex hoses with that end x ballcock end. Braided flex ss is fine. Fluidmaster is a decent brand, as are other name brands.
Looks like a Brasscraft stop. You can buy a new Brasscraft stop and just replace the inside works incl handle..with water shut off at the source, the hex nut can be loosened and the stem assembly unscrewed out from the body...you don't need to remove the handle, even.

supply-line-sizes-terrylove-01.jpg
Thank you Breplum. I had tried a 1/2” supply line and it seemed to just spin as if too large. I stopped at Lowes and picked up the Fluidmaster universal line. Indeed it was the 1/2” adapter that fit. I’m guessing I just needed to press harder on the original 1/2” line to get it inserted far enough. I will try that again to see. I also picked up the brass craft inner works and will replace that. I think I can be satisfied with that for now. At least now I know what to do on the other 2 bathrooms. Thanks for your reply!
 

DeSpeed

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You want a digital caliper. I am partial to https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...eter/calipers/6-in-digital-caliper-63711.html

I would avoid their plastic ones (fewer digits) and their offering that does fractions (their fraction mode is useless IMO). I order batteries elsewhere.

So after you get your caliper, you can get measurements of the top thread OD, and the chrome pipe at the bottom.

I am wondering if that chrome is a dress thing over a 1/2 inch inch copper beneath. Or more likely, one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...xtension-Tube-Bell-Flange-CS41BX-C1/202047065
chrome-brasscraft-shut-off-valves-cs41bx-c1-4f_100.jpg
https://www.brasscraft.com/product/12-in-nom-sweat-x-38-in-o-d-comp-with-bell-escutcheon-2/

Do you have access from below?
I will definitely pick up a set of calipers. I’ve needed them more than a few times already so would be a good tool to have. What I have done is use an adjustable wrench on a known 1/2” pipe and when I try to fit it over the one in the floor, the pipe was too large to fit. I think what you show in your image is most likely it.

I probably can get to it from below once I figure out exactly where that is. The walls and ceiling are all finished down below and I’d like to avoid a dozen holes in the ceiling. I think with some creative measurements I can narrow it down.
 

DeSpeed

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It appears that your current valve is working by holding back pressure.

The simplest answer is to find the appropriately long 1/2" compression x toilet sized supply tube and be done with it

OR

Replace the valve by opening up the ceiling below the valve and extending new copper above the floor with a new 5/8" x 3/8" compression straight stop with new appropriately long supply tube.
Right, there are no leaks. It just looks rather corroded inside and this place has some pretty bad hard water mineral build up everywhere. I’m doing the simple way right now but I will eventually do it the hard way later before I put in the flooring. I think. It just really sucks to be renovating to look all nice and pretty and leave that in clear view.
 

Reach4

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If you have a radio, you could park that by the pipe. Then listen from below to help locate that spot.

Another alternative is to fish a pipe into the wall, and have your new stop valve come out of the wall.

While fishing stuff into the wall, consider adding an electrical outlet to support a bidet attachment.
 

DeSpeed

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If you have a radio, you could park that by the pipe. Then listen from below to help locate that spot.

Another alternative is to fish a pipe into the wall, and have your new stop valve come out of the wall.

While fishing stuff into the wall, consider adding an electrical outlet to support a bidet attachment.
Ooh those are good ideas. I really would rather have it coming from the wall and an outlet is something I was planning to add.
 

Reach4

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For fishing thru the wall, you could use 3/8 OD soft copper or PEX. If you can put a stubout at the wall to hold the valve, that would be good. But unsupported PEX works too. I had copper fished for mine, but I had a leak only because I under-tightened the compression adapter. I was afraid I had crushed the tubing. Nope. The removed tubing was not distorted, and I should have given it more torque. It is hard to overtighten with short wrenches. It is hard to tighten enough with short wrenches.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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If you're going to be re-doing the floor, then you don't need to open the wall to replace or move the stub out location
 
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