New Iron Filter still see Iron.

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2004blackwrx

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Sorry for the confusion. The slow drain is only during air draw cycle. After cycle ends water flow stops. Thanks for the advice. Im a tinkerer but agree I will wait for my own iron test kit to arrive so I can verify what I see and try to get the seller to resolve the issue. He has been nice so far so hopefully that continues and we can resolve everything. I do get the impression though that he normally puts a system in and its good to go without the issues I am seeing so hopefully he can resolve them without to much more costs.
 

2004blackwrx

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I came across a full well test from a few years back. The results are listed below. I am still waiting for my hach test kit to arrive so I can test Iron and hardness.

Benzene, Bromobenzene, Bromochloromethane, Bromomethane, Butylbenzene, carbon tetrachloride, chloroethane, chloromethane, chlorotoluene, Dibromomethane, Dichlorobenzene, Dichlorodifluoromethane, Dichloroethane, Dichloroethene, Dichloropropane, Dichloropropene, Enthylbenzene, Hexachlorobututadiene, Isopropyltoluene, Methylene chloride, Propylbenzene, Styrene, Tetrachloroethane, Toulene, Trichlorobenzene, Trichloroethene, Trichlorofluoromethane, Trichloropropane, Trimethylbenzene, xlene, vinyl chloride and MTBE all are <0.5 ug/L

Calcium 102 mg/L
Iron 1.46 mg/L
Magnesium 17.7 mg/L
Sodium 60.5 mg/L
Arsenic <0.0014 mg/L
Beryllium <0.0003 mg/L
Cadmium <0.001 mg/L
Chromium 0.0117 mg/L
Manganese 0.764 mg/L
Nickel 0.00288 mg/L
Lead 0.00697 mg/L
Antimony <0.0004 mg/L
Thallium <0.0003 mg/L
Barium 0.363 mg/L
Selenium <0.002 mg/L
Mercury <0.0002 mg/L
Total Hardness 327 mg/L
Alkalinity 245 mg/L
Chloride 139 mg/L
Sulfate 22.1 mg/L
Nitrate as N <0.01 mg/L
Cyanide total <0.005 mg/L
Turbidity 1.2 NTU
pH 6.92
Nitrite as N <0.01 mg/L
 

Reach4

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iron 1.46 mg/L is a lot (1.46 ppm). Manganese level is very high.

Softener can deal with both, but needs a lot of assistance.

This water would not taste good. The softener would improve things a lot, but you need to assist your new resin.
 

Zenon2cubed

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Your 1st post says Iron after the AIO filter was 1.8 PPM, this report is showing 1.46 PPM at the source. The AIO probably isn't doing anything at all. I'm not sure what's wrong, but from my research higher pressure helps AIO filters, and the recommended pH for iron removal is 6.8-7.4.
 

2004blackwrx

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Your 1st post says Iron after the AIO filter was 1.8 PPM, this report is showing 1.46 PPM at the source. The AIO probably isn't doing anything at all. I'm not sure what's wrong, but from my research higher pressure helps AIO filters, and the recommended pH for iron removal is 6.8-7.4.
I have a check valve prior to my my iron filter to prevent back flow. Yes my Iron samples vary, but were taken at different times. Both are Raw water levels before any filters. I am still waiting for my test kit to see exactly what Iron is after the filter. I was told zero by the water guy but if I take a sample after the filter and add chlorine the water turns reddish brown as pictured above. Ph appears to be in the proper range.
iron 1.46 mg/L is a lot (1.46 ppm). Manganese level is very high.

Softener can deal with both, but needs a lot of assistance.

This water would not taste good. The softener would improve things a lot, but you need to assist your new resin
Even if the Iron and Manganese are high both are within the limit of what I was told and have read Katalox can handle. From my understanding my softener alone should be able to take care of the Iron but at the cost of more salt and wear and tear. I agreed to get the Iron Filter for the reason of protecting the softener. I figured with the two together everything would be great at least until some maintenance was required. You are correct my raw water tastes bad like metal. The house also has a under sink RO so drinking water taste good and is not a concern, however I want to make sure the water going to the RO filter is as clean as possible. I posted the full water test since I know some guys wanted to see those numbers. I will report back in a week or two when I get my test kit at which point I will have test results of what Im seeing. Hopefully then my water guy can help and if not you guys can get me going in the right direction. If it wasnt for the chlorine toilet tabs I wouldnt have noticed and issues with my water. I could simply switch to a none chlorine cleaner but chlorine was never an issue when my culligan system used to work so I now refuse to settle till the issue is resolved.
 

2004blackwrx

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Still waiting for a test kit. Hach says there on backorder 6 to 8 weeks. My water guy came by last week and said my setup was fine. (i installed it myself) He did a backwash and said no air came out so switched me from 3 days to 2. Im still having staining. I disinfeceted the well with bleach to see if that would help but it didnt. Now I am trying to experiment with higher backwash flow and seen some improvement but still colored water when I add bromine tablet. I removed the drain flow button and got 10gpm however if you see that bucket there is a few small pieces of katalox. I know you dont want to wash out the katalox but is that small amount an issue?
Thanks
 

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Are you sure the unit is drawing air in the "brine" cycle? You could have a clogged injector that would prevent it from drawing air. First thing to do is run a regen cycle manually and make sure it has a strong air draw. If it is drawing air the air may be slowly leaking to the drain after the regen cycle is complete.

Do a manual regeneration, immediately after it's complete pull the drain line off at the head. Put your ear down by the drain port and listen for hissing. If it is hissing the air charge is being lost. At that point you may need a new piston and seal/spacer set.
 
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2004blackwrx

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I am definitely drawing air in I felt the suction. During the day I hear dripping of water in the tank. I have not yet tested to see if I hear air coming out of drain valve. If I am reading this correctly listen as soon as the air draw cycle is complete and the unit is back in treatment mode. Not as it cycles from air draw to treatment.
 

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you should put the drain flow button back in. you don't want media to discharge, not just because its wasting media but also because it will get stuck in the valve seals and cause leaks and excess wear. make sure you're not draining water out the drain line while the unit is in service.

you will hear water "trickling" inside the unit when in service and while service water is flowing. its water falling down in the air pocket inside, that's a good sign the air pocket is intact.

did you ask your water guy about adding an ozone unit?
 

2004blackwrx

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I definetely hear trickling. He hasnt said anything about ozone yet. He did say he doesnt like selling what isnt needed. I was hoping I could get hach test kits sooner so I can tell him my exact numbers. He did say we will get this figured out but im not sure if he has a plan. Also i hate bugging people but I will contact him again. He kept saying he uses this unit everywhere even places with way higher Iron and never has issues so he seems a bit perplexed. I already put drain button back in since it being removed made no difference in water clarity. About how much does it cost to add ozone to clack ws1 valve. Also I read ozone can cause issue with pin hole leaks in copper. That sounds horrible. Lastly, when I add bromine tab to my water it takes a few hours to oxidize, maybe because its a tab and takes time to disolve but im concerned nothing will allow my water enough time to oxidize so it can be filtered.
 

Reach4

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Injecting hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) would be fast.
 

2004blackwrx

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I did a backwash regen. then after the cycle finished removed the drain hose. The port that the drain hose sits in was full of water. No hissing sound and no bubbles
 

Reach4

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The results are listed below. I am still waiting for my hach test kit to arrive so I can test Iron and hardness.
The 5-B test is available from other sources.

You could cancel the iron test from Hach if in a hurry.
https://www.zoro.com/search?q=iron test
Lemotte is a well known brand. It is in stock, and Zoro is a very good source. Free shipping over $75.

https://www.zoro.com/lamotte-total-hardness-kit-0-200-4482-dr-li-01/i/G4661386/ looks like a more sophisticated hardness test.
 

2004blackwrx

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I was getting a hach iron and hardness test when I found out it was on backnkrder I canceled and just order a seperate hach iron and seperate harndess test yeaterday. They said hardness test was in stock Ill see next week if it ships if not ill cancel and look into lamotte. Thanks
 

2004blackwrx

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I came across a company hanna instruments and ordered there water hardness and Iron Tests. While waiting for the test I started taking a daily sample of water from the faucet and putting bromine tablet in it. The water would stay clear for the first 400 or 500 grains of usage then turn brown so based on this I need to adjust my softener grain setting. Today my tests arrived and I was able to put it to use. I tested both raw water and treated water and got about 25 grains (kind of hard to judge when it goes from red to purple to blue, looks more purple blue to me but never gets bluer). My softener is set to 20 grains so I changed it to 25. I set the softener to regen tonight. I will test again tomorrow. I then tested for Iron. No Iron detected in my sample from the faucet, no Iron detected in my sample from the faucet that was brown from the bromine, no Iron detected in my sample after the Iron filter. I then tested the raw water and detected Iron. My test has a color wheel but I never saw an exact match to the color in my sample and the wheel but I would guess its less then 2ppm iron because after 2 the color wheel was way darker then the sample. Based on this I think my Iron filter is working to stop the Iron. My water softener is also filtering what ever is causing my water to turn brown when in contact with Bromine but it is causing the resin to become exhausted way earlier then the softener is programed for. I am going to need to get the softener regen dialed in to eliminate this issue.
Does my assessment seem logical? If my issue is not Iron then what is it?
 

Reach4

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My softener is set to 20 grains so I changed it to 25.
With no iron and 25 measured grains of hardness, I would set H = 29 due to the need for high-hardness compensation. terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/fleck-9100-sxt-programming-settings.60651/


With residual iron, add another 5 to that 29 for each ppm.
 
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