Reducing from 2 inch Main

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Dennis Gillaspie

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My home is a manufactured home on a basement. The main water line coming into the house is 2 inch PVC. It is reduced to 3/4 at the entry right after a 2 inch ball valve main shut off. From there, 3/4 inch PVC runs the length of the house (60 feet) to the main hookup to the home's polybutylene plumbing system. I'm in the process of converting all the poly to PEX. I'm also wanting to replace the 60 feet of PVC with PEX. My question: is there a standard on reducing from 2 inch to 3/4 inch? Or should I reduce to 1 inch (PEX) for the main throughout the house and reduce to 3/4 or 1/2 for the hookups to sinks, heaters, etc?

I'm including a photo of the 2 inch coming in with the ball valve and the horrible reducing job the previous person did.

Dennis Gillaspie

water_main.jpg
 

Terry

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I would run 1" after the shutoff valve. and consider changing the shutoff to brass. I'm not a fan of the plastic valves.

I typically run 3/4" for cold on a bathroom, and 1/2" for the hot.
1/2" for kitchen sink and washer.
 

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Dennis Gillaspie

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I would run 1" after the shutoff valve. and consider changing the shutoff to brass. I'm not a fan of the plastic valves.

I typically run 3/4" for cold on a bathroom, and 1/2" for the hot.
1/2" for kitchen sink and washer.

I notice that transitioning from PVC to brass in 2" is rather pricey. Is reducing from 2" to 1" before the shutoff okay. Then transitioning from 1" PVC to 1" brass?
 

Dennis Gillaspie

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The picture shows a 1/2" CPVC or PVC pipe. Count the adapters, 1/2" to 3/4" to 1" to 1.5" to 2". Five in all. There isn't much 2" pipe left to get a clean surface to install a new shutoff. BTW, the 2" coupling is probably for DWV, not potable water. When you upgrade besure to get the correct coupler.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...ing-PVC021001600HD/203811391#product-overview

LOL! I know. The reducing effort was quite a thing to see when I first saw it. Thanks for noticing the coupler problem. I will definitely fix that.
 

Dennis Gillaspie

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I would run 1" after the shutoff valve. and consider changing the shutoff to brass. I'm not a fan of the plastic valves.

I typically run 3/4" for cold on a bathroom, and 1/2" for the hot.
1/2" for kitchen sink and washer.

I notice that transitioning from PVC to brass in 2" is rather pricey. Is reducing from 2" to 1" before the shutoff okay. Then transitioning from 1" PVC to 1" brass?
 

Jeff H Young

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I can't see everything but likely would cut the 2 inch back, glue a 2 inch 90 on looking up, then a 2x1 slip bushing with a PVC sch 80 nipple cut in half glued in, screw the new valve on and run!
 

Dennis Gillaspie

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I cant see everything but likley would cut the 2 inch back glue a 2 inch 90 on looking up, then a 2x1 slip bushing with a pvc sch 80 nipple cut in half glued in , screw the new valve on and run!

Jeff, thanks. Wouldn't there need to be a short piece of PVC between the elbow and the slip bushing?
 
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Reach4

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Jeff, explain the "cut in half" instruction. I'm not sure what you mean.
https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/220-060-2-x-6-schedule-80-pvc-nipple.html is a schedule 80 6 inch nipple.

If you cut it in half, you will have a 3-inch pipe with threads on one side, and unthreaded on the other.

Maybe a shorter nipple would serve better. https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/fittings/schedule-80-pvc/nipples.html?size_in_inches=32

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-861-020-2-PVC-Schedule-80-Male-Street-Adapter would glue into a 2-inch elbow and provide the 2 inch threads, instead of cutting a nipple. It would let you use a big wrench on its hex to counteract torque.
 
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Dennis Gillaspie

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https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/220-060-2-x-6-schedule-80-pvc-nipple.html is a schedule 80 6 inch nipple.

If you cut it in half, you will have a 3-inch pipe with threads on one side, and unthreaded on the other.

Maybe a shorter nipple would serve better. https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/fittings/schedule-80-pvc/nipples.html?size_in_inches=32

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-861-020-2-PVC-Schedule-80-Male-Street-Adapter would glue into a 2-inch elbow and provide the 2 inch threads, instead of cutting a nipple. It would let you use a big wrench on its hex to counteract torque.


Is it acceptable to use an inside connector on something like this, in case the original 2" pipe has to be trimmed back too much to accept a new coupler? See the image attached.
water_Shutoff.jpg
 

Reach4

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Street 90 small end is the same OD as a schedule 40 or 80 pipe. That type of connection can also be called "spigot".

"Inside" glues into a schedule 40 pipe, and not into a schedule 80, and not into a hub. Would it match the inside of a "spigot" port on the fitting you showed? I am not sure, but I don't think you can rely on it.

To glue a hub onto a 2 inch pipe, I think you need 1.5 inches of pipe free.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#extender has an "inside" end and a pipe-sized end.

What I think somebody could do is to cut off the pipe to the left of the coupler, use a "socket saver"/Rambit/Reed type tool, and then glue that street 90 into the coupling.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....kitchen-sink-need-advice-on-waste-line.62863/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/abs-repair-remove-pipe-from-fitting.49142/
https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/produc...an-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-J44200-2-Socket-Saver


I have used none of these. Maybe you would like somebody who has experience to do this reaming.

The Reed CRP200 looks good to me ~$40 via eBay. The Reed PPR200 is the more professional that Terry would use. Both are more substantial than the Rambit and other cheaper offerings.
 
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Dennis Gillaspie

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I can't see everything but likely would cut the 2 inch back, glue a 2 inch 90 on looking up, then a 2x1 slip bushing with a PVC sch 80 nipple cut in half glued in, screw the new valve on and run!

Jeff: I've purchased some fittings. I have a 2 in. x 1 in. PVC Schedule 40 Spigot x S Reducer Bushing. The sch 80 nipple seems quite loose inside the 1 in slip end of the bushing?

Would it be better to use a 2” spigot by 1” FPT bushing and the entire nipple?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...-x-S-Reducer-Bushing-PVC021071300HD/203811533
https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?p=PVC-Nipples-1NPT&p_id=775-060210&xm=on&ppinc=detail
 

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Jeff H Young

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Actually that's not a good idea at all! its been done millions of time but the best is to never have a plastic female threaded fitting under pressure in my opinion. they tend to crack and should be avoided .
 
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