Leaky ball valve with crazy loose packing nut

[Nev]

I've got a 3/4" ball valve going to my water heater which ever since it was turned now slowly drips. After doing some research I saw the thing to do was tighten the packing nut but it is actually so loose that when I grabbed it the nut slid halfway off. I am not sure if threading corroded off of something or what but if I didn't know any better I'd say this nut wasn't the right size.

What are my options? Is it possible to find a replacement nut? Cleaning all the rust/calcium has made the leaking a bit worse I think...

Thanks

 

[WorthFlorida]

No photo. It hard to tell that the packing nut is stripped or the threads on the valve are too far gone. Someone in the past may have over tighten it. Take a picture and go to a store to see if you can match it up. With sharkbite fittings and valves available, it is not all that hard replacing the valve.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Nev]

ahh, I don't know what happened to my photo. Sorry about that.

I was thinking replace as well and was looking at compression fittings at Home Depot but I didn't really know if I cut out the existing valve how I would have enough room for a new valve since I'd lose some pipe in the process

 

[Terry]

I've seen them loose from the factory. I would first see if it threads back in carefully.
Very small and they don't take much turning.

 

[Nev]

It doesn't seem like it will grab a thread at all... I can slide it right on and off like it was a size too big (except it does look the right size for the white ring behind it)

 

[BillTheEngineer]

If you need/want to cut it out and concerned the pipe won't be long enough there are ways to deal with it without sweating in a new valve. Use a threaded valve and two thread to compression or sharkbite adapters. Yes it's a bit more expensive and there are more leak points, but no sweating is needed.

 

[Reach4]

That looks like the pipe out of the valve may be soldered to the top of the water heater. That would be odd. So maybe I am misinterpreting the picture.

Sharkbite has some interesting valves, including their "Slip Ball Valves" for repair work.

https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-ball-valves

 

[Nev]

If you need/want to cut it out and concerned the pipe won't be long enough there are ways to deal with it without sweating in a new valve. Use a threaded valve and two thread to compression or sharkbite adapters. Yes it's a bit more expensive and there are more leak points, but no sweating is needed.

Still cheaper than a plumber, for sure! I did not think of that.

That looks like the pipe out of the valve may be soldered to the top of the water heater. That would be odd. So maybe I am misinterpreting the picture.

Sharkbite has some interesting valves, including their "Slip Ball Valves" for repair work.

https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-ball-valves

The picture definitely cuts off at the bottom in a way that is misleading. The previous water heater was a tall model and it was replaced with a short one so the installer added some extra pipe which is what I think you're seeing. Below that there is a regular big ol' nut on the top of the water heater. Home Depot recommended this 18" hose to screw into the water heater but it would be too long and I don't see a shorter one offered. https://www.sharkbite.com/products/...ed-flexible-water-heater-connector-ball-valve

From what I have been reading the sharkbites make me nervous, but I may go with one of those slip ball valves. Probably less chance of me screwing it up as long as I avoid old solder and get a clean connection.

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Thanks all! I think I should be able to figure something out now

 

[GReynolds929]

Ball valves don't have packing nuts in the traditional sense. That nut is what holds the handle on. If it's leaking you need a new valve.