Replacing drain valve on Hot Water Tank

[Gary Nelson]

I tried removing a leaky valve on my hot water tank and couldn't break it free.
I was worried about putting too much pressure on this plastic valve. (attaching picture)
Any tricks or tips on how to remove it?

 

[Bannerman]

Are you trying to un-thread it by hand or are you using a wrench on the square section of the valve body directly in front of the plastic escutcheon ring?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

You could get by with replacing the washer in this drain valve.
To do that, turn off the cold supply valve, open a hot water faucet faucet, drain the water heater, remove the stem from the drain valve.
Replace the worn out washer, and re-install the stem.
Shut off the hot faucet connector, turn the water heater shut valve on and test for leaks.

 

[Gary Nelson]

Are you trying to un-thread it by hand or are you using a wrench on the square section of the valve body directly in front of the plastic escutcheon ring?

I was using a crescent wrench on the square section.

 

[Gary Nelson]

You could get by with replacing the washer in this drain valve.
To do that, turn off the cold supply valve, open a hot water faucet faucet, drain the water heater, remove the stem from the drain valve.
Replace the worn out washer, and re-install the stem.
Shut off the hot faucet connector, turn the water heater shut valve on and test for leaks.

I may have tried removing the stem. I'll check it again. This is up at my cottage and we will not be back up there for another month. Just to be certain these are not reverse threads? I may try a bigger pipe wrench on it next time to see if I can remove it. Will it be ok to replace it with a brass valve? I hate the plastic one, the stem is worn. I have to drain the tank every fall when we winterize the cottage.

 

[Reach4]

Will it be ok to replace it with a brass valve? I hate the plastic one, the stem is worn. I have to drain the tank every fall when we winterize the cottage.

Yes to both. I am not apro.

I replaced my plastic drain valve with several parts: nipple, full flow drain valve, GHT adapter. I wanted the possibility to insert a tube/wand, such as Camco 40103 (25.5 inches long),for better flushing of debris. There is now available a brass full flow drain valve, which I would have used instead.

Rheem AP12231C-1 Overall Length (in.): 6-1/8

Rheem SP12231B Overall Length (in.): 3-3/4

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/hot-water-isnt-hot.84945/page-2#post-611711 shows what my removed plastic drain valve looked like.

 

[Jadnashua]

The only thing you'll maybe notice on an all-metal drain valve is that it might end up hotter when you go to try to open it up! A ball valve may be easier since they tend to have a plastic covering on the handle, and, would have higher flow to help flush things out.

 

[Terry]

The drain for a water heater has standard 3/4" threads, and come out counter clockwise. Most of the time they will unthread. There was a time or two that part of it broke off though. What to do if it breaks? I've used a small hack saw blade and cut some slots to weaken it being careful to not go so far as the threads in the tank. A flat blade screwdriver helps to then wedge some of it out. You can try something like and easy out on the inside.

Replacement can be made with a brass nipped and ball valve, and then you would need something for your hose thread on the end.

This one came out okay.

 

[Gary Nelson]

Yes to both. I am not apro.

I replaced my plastic drain valve with several parts: nipple, full flow drain valve, GHT adapter. I wanted the possibility to insert a tube/wand, such as Camco 40103 (25.5 inches long),for better flushing of debris. There is now available a brass full flow drain valve, which I would have used instead.

Rheem AP12231C-1 Overall Length (in.): 6-1/8

Rheem SP12231B Overall Length (in.): 3-3/4

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/hot-water-isnt-hot.84945/page-2#post-611711 shows what my removed plastic drain valve looked like.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Gary Nelson]

The drain for a water heater has standard 3/4" threads, and come out counter clockwise. Most of the time they will unthread. There was a time or two that part of it broke off though. What to do if it breaks? I've used a small hack saw blade and cut some slots to weaken it being careful to not go so far as the threads in the tank. A flat blade screwdriver helps to then wedge some of it out. You can try something like and easy out on the inside.

Replacement can be made with a brass nipped and ball valve, and then you would need something for your hose thread on the end.

This one came out okay.

Thank you Terry! I will give it a try next time we are at the cottage.

 

[Skeezix]

I too was worried about the drain valve on my new AO Smith 40-gallon heater. Wouldn't loosen! So after fretting about it for a year after I installed the heater I finally applied all the pressure that I could to the valve and it did come out.

Be sure to replace that cheap, plastic, piddly-flow valve (that clogs after a couple years) with a full-flow, 1/4-turn drain valve like the one in the following image.

 

[Jeff H Young]

sometimes I just put a cap on. quick and easy

 

[Dj2]

Thank you Terry! I will give it a try next time we are at the cottage.

The risk: It could crack on you when you apply more pressure or use a bigger wrench.

 

[Jeff H Young]

The risk: It could crack on you when you apply more pressure or use a bigger wrench.

It aint coming off if he is too scared to unscrew it

 

[TheOverThinker]

Well.
Be prepared for a disaster.
It might come of. Or you could thread a cap on it.... those caps are sold in the garden department for the ends of garden hoses.