White PVC bath drain kit connect to ABS p-trap

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Dohc46

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Hello,

First off, regardless who reads this question; I have asked previous questions: you guys are great!

I made the mistake of not remembering how the old p-trap was connected therefore...

photos:
Plumb 17: old P-trap & drain kit part that connects
Plumb 18: old P-trap and "build up gunk or glue/silicone"
Plumb 19: Item proposing to use on new setup
Plumb 20: new P-trap & new item from photo 19 & same old drain kit part
Plumb 21: old drain kit showing a compression ring (will be one of my main questions...)
Plumb 22: Showing the "short" section that will go into drain kit that goes to the ABS
Plumb 23: Showing photo 22 connected with no glue/thread/nothing just sitting on top
Plumb 24: overview of entire waste & drain kit

Question 1: I bought photo 19 part, because it looked like the old threaded section on the old ABS p-trap. Is this the correct part to use?

Question 2: On photo 18: can you determine if that is some kind of sealant, if yes what should I use on new setup?

Question 3: This may be subtle, but maybe important? On photo 17&18 you can see between the P-trap and the threaded/gunky part that there is a small riser. Currently in my setup (photo 20) I don't have anything like that. I don't think I need it, to have correct height for tub, however could I need it so the white PVC goes into the P-trap further (less likely to leak)?

Question 4: Photo 21, I made the mistake of not observing/remembering when taking old one apart if it had a compression fitting...do I need that compression fitting connecting the PVC to ABS? The compression ring is just me sticking it on for photo, again not sure if needed.

Question 5: Photo 22&23. you can probably see that the white part that connect to the other white part is not too long (it didn't leak previously old owner setup) and it was literally just connected by placing it in the the white section that will be connecting to the ABS p-trap. Does that seem short? and there appeared to be a "broken down white film at the connection, could they have Siliconed it to prevent a leak?

Plumb 22.jpg
 

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wwhitney

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First question: after the tub is installed, will the tub waste and overflow still be accessible? If not, then all the connections should be solvent weld, not slip joint.

1) So you're replacing the ABS trap? If so, that's a fine part to use as long as slip joint connections are allowed.
2) Maybe it's sealant, but it doesn't belong on a slip joint connection, don't use any.
3) No particular need for an extra riser, as long as you have a sufficient length of pipe going into the slip joint connection. More pipe is better, not sure what the minimum is, 1/2" would be probably be OK.
4) A slip joint connection will have a washer and a nut. But the part shown in the 3rd photo probably has a special nut with the washer built in. If you look at the underside of the nut, is it flat next to the hole, or is there a projection parallel to the pipe with a conical edge? The latter would be the built in washer, in which case you wouldn't use a separate washer.
5) I don't quite follow the question, all the joints where one pipe fits into another should be slip joint connections with a washer and a nut.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Dohc46

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Thank you! I will have access through closet (anything in photo 27 I would be able to touch).
Photo 27 is original setup.
Sorry for not clear on question 5: On photo 27 I circled the section I was trying to mimic on photos 22 & 23. Basically when I took of the circled section during "demo" it was just literally sitting on the white "tailpiece" that goes to the ABS. In this setup I don't see how a washer & nut would fit; so I was basically asking if it was OK the way they had it (again there was a clearish "film" around the connection) and even though it looks "fishy" apparently it never leaked. Thank you.

Plumb 27.jpg
 

wwhitney

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Basically when I took of the circled section during "demo" it was just literally sitting on the white "tailpiece" that goes to the ABS.
Definitely wrong and not something you should recreate. Every joint should be either a slip joint with washer and nut, or a solvent weld joint. If both of the two pieces are PVC, it is possible it was supposed to be solvent welded and someone was unclear on the concept. But white tubular is generally not PVC, it's polypropylene.

If the parts in #23 are ones you removed from the previous installation, and it's not clear how to join them, then you may want to get a new tubular offset drain tub waste and overflow.

Edit: not sure if offset is the correct term, but one where the drain comes is below the drain shoe, rather than the overflow.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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Dohc46

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Apparently it is not normal to have the drain right under the bath drain (it was hard to find the piece like mine) (thank you plumbingsupply.com).
So now I have the correct parts...however now ironically I have so many parts that it looks like (to me) I have two valid ways to connect tail to the P-trap. Which one (I hope at least one of them lol) is correct/preferable?

Note* the other section of p-trap is removed from pics, so I could concentrate on the issue at hand.

Plumb 28 photo = tailpipe, nut with built in washer, photo 19 item. I would abs glue photo 19 to the 1 section of the p-trap.
Plumb 29 photo = same tailpipe, nut with separate washer, photo 30 item, and "riser". I would abs glue riser to p-trap AND abs glue riser to photo 30.
Note* riser in this picture isn't correct height yet, just used a piece for reference.

Thank you!
 

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Terry

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There are a few ways to hook up a tub drain.

watco_tub_drains.jpg


More typical now with drains that aren't accessible are waste and overflows that are glued, with no slip joints.

watco_innovator.jpg
 
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