PEX angle stop replacement. What should I do!?

Users who are viewing this thread

Jamesd42

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
Nevada
First off, thanks for everyone who posts all the knowledge here. I’ve learned more lurking here over the last month than ever before. But now the time has come where I need some help.

Just purchased this home. Built in 2004 and has PEX (not sure what kind etc). The angle stops under the sinks and to the toilets are starting to show some creek corrosion near the threads so I figure it’s only a matter of time before a leak develops. I think the best option is probably just to change them all out and attempt to avoid a problem of them bursting etc.

The PEX comes out of the wall and all of the stops are compression fittings (PEX into a compression angle stop). I would like to use a reliable method to connect new angle stops. Here’s where I’m at:

option 1: just remove the old ones and pop a shark bite on them.

option 2: get the tool and use cinch rings (how’s this work if I don’t know what brand of PEX!?)

option 3: use new compression fittings.


Try not to eat me alive. I’m not a plumber but am a stickler for doing things the right way, hence why I’m here. I appreciate any help or advice you guys can provide!

9467DA30-EEDA-42DD-A786-0A53FD4F4928.jpeg
27D6BE3D-9E3B-4A86-BC11-215B2E3DA298.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
For option 2, you can use stainless clamps or crimp rings on any brand. I think you would just cut the old valve off, but you would want to check dimensions.

Dahl 611-PX3-31
611-px3-31-4.jpg
or 611-PX3LE-31
611-px3le-31-4.jpg
might be worth considering. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...Valve-w-7-8-OD-Deep-Bell-Escutcheon-Lead-Free
With 611-PX3-31 you would also want to buy a new escutcheon, but maybe a split one that you would put on after crimping. The size would be 1/2 inch CTS. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-ESBS050-1-2-Copper-Plastic-Split-Escutcheon-Chrome-Plated-5-8-OD
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
my house had same thing as you. I changed all my angle stops and used old ferrule and nut. when you don't have much sticking out the wall I did it easy way, but I trust it as much as a shark bite. the crimp method sucks too because next time you gotta cut it back. your angle stop becomes a permanent part of your plumbing, I find that hokey, kind of like soldering on angle stops on copper stubs. That leaves the option of a shark bite angle stop the one place I'm ok with shark bite on CPVC stubs or PEX stubs.
If you could crimp a male or female adapter on and use a high box flange with a threaded stop that would be a good option
 

Jamesd42

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
Nevada
my house had same thing as you. I changed all my angle stops and used old ferule and nut. when you dont have much sticking out the wall I did it easy way, but I trust it as much as a shark bite. the crimp method sucks too because next time you gotta cut it back. your angle stop becomes a permanent part of your plumbing, I find that hokey, kind of like soldering on angle stops on copper stubs. That leaves the option of a shark bite angle stop the one place Im ok with shark bite on cpvc stubs or pex stubs.
If you could crimp a male or female adapter on and use a high box flange with a threaded stop that would be a good option


That’s my debate lol. I don’t want to keep cutting more away. Did the compression fittings you got come with the inner support for PEX (stiffening tube)?

also if I went with a shark bite, after removing the current compression fitting, do you think I’d need to clean cut the PEX? Or should it be good enough to go directly int a shark bite?
 

Jamesd42

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
Nevada
For option 2, you can use stainless clamps or crimp rings on any brand. I think you would just cut the old valve off, but you would want to check dimensions.

Dahl 611-PX3-31
611-px3-31-4.jpg
or 611-PX3LE-31
611-px3le-31-4.jpg
might be worth considering. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...Valve-w-7-8-OD-Deep-Bell-Escutcheon-Lead-Free
With 611-PX3-31 you would also want to buy a new escutcheon, but maybe a split one that you would put on after crimping. The size would be 1/2 inch CTS. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-ESBS050-1-2-Copper-Plastic-Split-Escutcheon-Chrome-Plated-5-8-OD

thanks for the reply. So basically any of the cinch clamps would work with PEX? I can just buy say the shark bite tool and rings?

also I’ve read to stay away from “cheaper” rings. What’s a good brand. Not being in the trade, I’m not familiar with what to avoid lol.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
thanks for the reply. So basically any of the cinch clamps would work with PEX? I can just buy say the shark bite tool and rings?
Yes, but I don't know if some are better than others.

I looked up the SharkBite tool. Is this what you are talking about?
sharkbite-tube-crimpers-23383-64_100.jpg
Interesting for a few-time use. It was new to me. Some tools need calibrating from what I read. The rings should have a go-nogo tool applied, and that is included with that pictured tool.

I had considered stainless clamps, but went with an expansion tool. That works only with more expensive fittings and only with some pex tubing.
 

Jamesd42

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
Nevada
Yes, but I don't know if some are better than others.

I looked up the SharkBite tool. Is this what you are talking about?
sharkbite-tube-crimpers-23383-64_100.jpg
Interesting for a few-time use. It was new to me. Some tools need calibrating from what I read. The rings should have a go-nogo tool applied, and that is included with that pictured tool.

I had considered stainless clamps, but went with an expansion tool. That works only with more expensive fittings and only with some pex tubing.


Here’s the cinch tool and cinch clamps I was looking at.
 

Attachments

  • 3EE68975-186F-441C-9553-890D7C8D93A6.png
    3EE68975-186F-441C-9553-890D7C8D93A6.png
    151.3 KB · Views: 194
  • F8DCD35C-C56E-40D3-BFB7-E6E7E3E12B20.png
    F8DCD35C-C56E-40D3-BFB7-E6E7E3E12B20.png
    146.8 KB · Views: 231

Jamesd42

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
Nevada
You were using the term "rings" previously. What you pictured is what I call clamps, but they can go by different names.
https://www.pexuniverse.com/oetiker-pex-clamps.

Are you going to have room to apply that tool?

My mistake.

I think It will. It’s smaller than the crimp tool it appears.

As long as these cinch clamps are pretty universal with PEX brands, and I get decent ones, I think it should go ok.
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
jamesd42, on my personal home I had compression stops wth a stiffener inside and I just changed the stop. a house a couple days ago had pex stubs with "acorn brand " stops that had to cut back about 5/8 inch
 

Michael Young

In the Trades
Messages
508
Reaction score
101
Points
28
Location
North Carolina
First off, thanks for everyone who posts all the knowledge here. I’ve learned more lurking here over the last month than ever before. But now the time has come where I need some help.

Just purchased this home. Built in 2004 and has PEX (not sure what kind etc). The angle stops under the sinks and to the toilets are starting to show some creek corrosion near the threads so I figure it’s only a matter of time before a leak develops. I think the best option is probably just to change them all out and attempt to avoid a problem of them bursting etc.

The PEX comes out of the wall and all of the stops are compression fittings (PEX into a compression angle stop). I would like to use a reliable method to connect new angle stops. Here’s where I’m at:

option 1: just remove the old ones and pop a shark bite on them.

option 2: get the tool and use cinch rings (how’s this work if I don’t know what brand of PEX!?)

option 3: use new compression fittings.


Try not to eat me alive. I’m not a plumber but am a stickler for doing things the right way, hence why I’m here. I appreciate any help or advice you guys can provide!

View attachment 73764View attachment 73767

Get rid of that compression valve entirely. Just cut it off with PEX cutters. Pop in a new PEX-style angle stop. Crimp it in and you're done. You'll need a 1/2" PEX ring, 1/2" PEX angle stop, 1/2" crimpers. If you rarely have a need to crimp fittings, some home depot rental rooms will rent crimpers for $8/day.

-Mike
https://homeservicestriad.com
 

Tuttles Revenge

In the Trades
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
1,410
Points
113
I'm with Jeff in this case. Compression 1/4 turn angle stops are replaceable and a good method for connecting angle stops to pex stubs. Same as Jeff, I would re-use the same compression nut and ferrule that is already there so you're not having to cut any pex back on that limited stub. Test fit one angle stop first to make sure theres no change in depth (most are the same) And if you can match the brand that is there now is even better and easier.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
Did you reuse the nut and stiffener and ferrule?
I did on my house reused them no problem . not the preferred way but can be done . Its kind of a bad situation other than a solid crimp or expansion PEX joint to a MIP adapter . the box flange idea you made reach4 looks clean I would say too
 

Jamesd42

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
Nevada
Get rid of that compression valve entirely. Just cut it off with PEX cutters. Pop in a new PEX-style angle stop. Crimp it in and you're done. You'll need a 1/2" PEX ring, 1/2" PEX angle stop, 1/2" crimpers. If you rarely have a need to crimp fittings, some home depot rental rooms will rent crimpers for $8/day.

-Mike
https://homeservicestriad.com

Awesome. Would it be ok to use a cinch clamp instead of compression? I’m limited with space under the counters so I figured the cinch clamp would be easier.

On a correctly crimped or cinch clamped fitting, how long can I expect that to hold tight? Am I looking at 3 years or up to a decade? I’m just wondering if I should extend the pex to prepare for future replacements?
 

Michael Young

In the Trades
Messages
508
Reaction score
101
Points
28
Location
North Carolina
Awesome. Would it be ok to use a cinch clamp instead of compression? I’m limited with space under the counters so I figured the cinch clamp would be easier.

On a correctly crimped or cinch clamped fitting, how long can I expect that to hold tight? Am I looking at 3 years or up to a decade? I’m just wondering if I should extend the pex to prepare for future replacements?

I personally don't like the cinch clamps. In my opinion, you get a hot-spot where the clamp doesn't distribute force equally. That's why I prefer pex, using pex rings. Others here would probably disagree with me. How long do they last? I've got pex joints out there there are still alive and working fine after 30 years. So I'd say they definitely hold up to the test of time. If you want to extend the length a little bit, go with whatever you feel comfortable with. a little extra to work with is looking out for the next guy. so thumbs up.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
I personally don't like the cinch clamps. In my opinion, you get a hot-spot where the clamp doesn't distribute force equally. That's why I prefer pex, using pex rings. Others here would probably disagree with me. How long do they last? I've got pex joints out there there are still alive and working fine after 30 years. So I'd say they definitely hold up to the test of time. If you want to extend the length a little bit, go with whatever you feel comfortable with. a little extra to work with is looking out for the next guy. so thumbs up.
how long will a permanantly installed anglestop last? the crimp joint will likely outlast the anglestop . then you open up wall to put next anglestop on.
I get it you would couple on another stub out (extending the length) . might be sticking out wall 3 inches or so you would have 3 pex rings on each stub out 2 on the coupling barb and one on the angle stop? that should be sound install might not look so clean on a w/c or ped lav though
 

Jamesd42

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Points
3
Location
Nevada
I’ll be honest. My main concern is a fitting blowing off and flooding the house. Not so much a “drip drip” in 5 years (although if I can avoid that, I’d be very happy lol). I’m going to try to avoid the push connect fittings because it seems like crimping or cinch clamps are more reliable.

I’m going to buy a crimp tool and also the cinch tool. If I have enough room to crimp, I will. If not I’ll cinch clamp them.

will the cinch clamps likely be good (and not blow off lol) if I have to use them in some locations? The kitchen stub outs are fairly short and it’s pretty cramped in there.



Also, thanks again for everyone’s help. I have a ton of respect for you guys who have made this expertise a profession and still willing to help a guy like me out lol.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks