Toilet - Best bowl clean and flush? No streaks?

[lucas43]

Hello Forum,

Wondering what you would recommend as a toilet in terms of the best bowl clean and flush that doesn't leave streak marks that need a brush. I have been looking at the Toto drake 1.6 and the Toto Drake II 1.28. I have read many reviews and while mostly good some people say they leave lots of streaks and they prefer this or that toilet. One that came up that had better bowl cleaning was the Gerber Avalanche 1.6 1000 map.

I also read the water spot? on the Drake and drake II are small? wont that promote streaks?

One thing I noticed about older toilets is the water in the toilet bowl was larger so it seemed to leave way less streak marks.

My current toilet is a luna and I am really not fond of it. always leaves streak marks and has a horrible flush. I am looking to replace it.

Appreciate any advice

 

[Reach4]

Wondering what you would recommend as a toilet in terms of the best bowl clean and flush that doesn't leave streak marks that need a brush.

You will need a brush, but normally not every time.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

I like the Drake II CST454CEFG for that. Is any toilet perfect? No.
Is it going to be better than the Avalanche? I would say yes.

 

[lucas43]

I like the Drake II CST454CEFG for that. Is any toilet perfect? No.
Is it going to be better than the Avalanche? I would say yes.

Hi Terry, without removing my current toilet and measuring the rough-in is there a way to make sure the Drake II CST454CEFG will fit? This is my current toilet I think, it says it has a 12" rough-in.



If I order the Drake II and my rough-in is a different size I can always get an adapter right?

Thanks!

 

[Terry]

If a 12" rough toilet fits now, the new one should also fit.
The Drake II CST454CEFG doesn't use an adapter.

 

[Jadnashua]

Measure from the WALL, not the baseboard trim, to the center of the toilet flange which is usually the anchor bolts. That is the rough-in value.

The finish on the toilet can help...the smoother the better. More than one company makes a proprietary finish for their toilets, on some, it's standard, on others, it's optional. The hardness and pH of the water plus what you might use to clean the toilet will help determine how long the finish lasts...it should be many years at full performance.

Today's toilets are mandated to use less water which means less rinsing, so it's important to make the best of it. On some Toto toilets, they do not have rim holes where water dribbles down. They have two ports, facing horizontally that let water out running down in a spiral. This is probably the best bowl rinse you're going to get with the available water, but depending on whatever skid marks are there, it may not be sufficient. Note, really sticky ones tend to come from a diet rich in fats, so a little change there can make a big difference. More roughage can make a big difference, too.

 

[lucas43]

Measure from the WALL, not the baseboard trim, to the center of the toilet flange which is usually the anchor bolts. That is the rough-in value.

The finish on the toilet can help...the smoother the better. More than one company makes a proprietary finish for their toilets, on some, it's standard, on others, it's optional. The hardness and pH of the water plus what you might use to clean the toilet will help determine how long the finish lasts...it should be many years at full performance.

Today's toilets are mandated to use less water which means less rinsing, so it's important to make the best of it. On some Toto toilets, they do not have rim holes where water dribbles down. They have two ports, facing horizontally that let water out running down in a spiral. This is probably the best bowl rinse you're going to get with the available water, but depending on whatever skid marks are there, it may not be sufficient. Note, really sticky ones tend to come from a diet rich in fats, so a little change there can make a big difference. More roughage can make a big difference, too.

I measured and its 9.5"... now you got me wanting to take the toilet off to be sure... my house is from 1957 and its old castiron drain pipes if that helps

 

[Jadnashua]

I think Canada pretty much follows the US on 'standard' toilets...the most common one is a 12" rough-in, and the others are less common at 10, and 14". You might find some differences if you happen to choose a European brand, but those designed to be sold in NA generally follow that 10, 12, 14" path.

There aren't as many 10" RI toilets out there, so your choices aren't as great. You need to check the drawings (usually on the spec sheet) carefully to see how much gap there is behind a toilet once installed. You don't want the rear of the tank touching the wall, as in the summer, it can tend to sweat at least a little (the new ones are better than the old ones regarding that), and touching would promote mold growth behind it on the wall. YOu want at least a little gap there.

Any of the Toto toilets that utilize their UniFit adapter could work, but that means buying the 10" one, since they all come with the 12" one, and no, you don't get to exchange it (so you'd end up with a 12" one to throw away, or store in case you ever wanted to move that toilet). Most 10" RI toilets will likely fit, but with less space behind it. Since casting porcelain and firing it has some variables, they list the sizes as 'nominal', meaning that's the average...could be slightly different than that. Typically, there's enough slop in the flange where you can cheat the position of the toilet at least 1/4" or so. Since the outlet of most toilets is a little over 2", and the smallest toilet flange is 3", you can shift it slightly and still have the outlet pointing down into the drain without issues.

 

[lucas43]

I think Canada pretty much follows the US on 'standard' toilets...the most common one is a 12" rough-in, and the others are less common at 10, and 14". You might find some differences if you happen to choose a European brand, but those designed to be sold in NA generally follow that 10, 12, 14" path.

There aren't as many 10" RI toilets out there, so your choices aren't as great. You need to check the drawings (usually on the spec sheet) carefully to see how much gap there is behind a toilet once installed. You don't want the rear of the tank touching the wall, as in the summer, it can tend to sweat at least a little (the new ones are better than the old ones regarding that), and touching would promote mold growth behind it on the wall. YOu want at least a little gap there.

Any of the Toto toilets that utilize their UniFit adapter could work, but that means buying the 10" one, since they all come with the 12" one, and no, you don't get to exchange it (so you'd end up with a 12" one to throw away, or store in case you ever wanted to move that toilet). Most 10" RI toilets will likely fit, but with less space behind it. Since casting porcelain and firing it has some variables, they list the sizes as 'nominal', meaning that's the average...could be slightly different than that. Typically, there's enough slop in the flange where you can cheat the position of the toilet at least 1/4" or so. Since the outlet of most toilets is a little over 2", and the smallest toilet flange is 3", you can shift it slightly and still have the outlet pointing down into the drain without issues.

Appreciate you taking the time to help me sir!

 

[lucas43]

I think Canada pretty much follows the US on 'standard' toilets...the most common one is a 12" rough-in, and the others are less common at 10, and 14". You might find some differences if you happen to choose a European brand, but those designed to be sold in NA generally follow that 10, 12, 14" path.

There aren't as many 10" RI toilets out there, so your choices aren't as great. You need to check the drawings (usually on the spec sheet) carefully to see how much gap there is behind a toilet once installed. You don't want the rear of the tank touching the wall, as in the summer, it can tend to sweat at least a little (the new ones are better than the old ones regarding that), and touching would promote mold growth behind it on the wall. YOu want at least a little gap there.

Any of the Toto toilets that utilize their UniFit adapter could work, but that means buying the 10" one, since they all come with the 12" one, and no, you don't get to exchange it (so you'd end up with a 12" one to throw away, or store in case you ever wanted to move that toilet). Most 10" RI toilets will likely fit, but with less space behind it. Since casting porcelain and firing it has some variables, they list the sizes as 'nominal', meaning that's the average...could be slightly different than that. Typically, there's enough slop in the flange where you can cheat the position of the toilet at least 1/4" or so. Since the outlet of most toilets is a little over 2", and the smallest toilet flange is 3", you can shift it slightly and still have the outlet pointing down into the drain without issues.

So best I can tell - The lunas real name is the EAGO TB351 based on a comment in the FAQ section of this site https://perfectbath.com/product/tb351-toilet-seat-2/

###############
Perfect Bath – August 18, 2020

Yes the EAGO TB351 is the same as the LUNA toilet. EAGO is the original Manufacturer of the LUNA Toilet
###############

And here is the technical specs for the TB351 so maybe this is why when I measure from the wall to the bolts its 9.5" seems like it has a 12" rough in. I guess the bolts on this toilet don't line up with the rough in hole?

https://eagousa.com/pub/media/documentation/Toilet_install.pdf

https://eagousa.com/pub/media/documentation/TB351_specs.pdf

I really hope I have a 12" rough in so I can get the Drake II.

 

[lucas43]

here it says rough in ROUGH IN 12 - https://eagousa.com/eago-tb351-one-piece-dual-flush-high-efficiency-low-flush-white-toilet.html

 

[Jadnashua]

The adapter they use is very similar to the one Toto uses for some models, and yes, the exposed anchors are not representative of the rough-in numbers...so, you lucked out...most any 12" toilet will fit.

That type of adapter is only used on some skirted toilets. If you want to keep with that style, Toto has a few. The ones that come to mind are the Vespin, Carlyle, and Guinevere, and a few others. I have a Vespin and a Carlyle, and they have been satisfactory. I do not remember ever having to use a plunger on one of them. The newest versions revised the bowl wash and rim to that spiraling flow, versus draining down from rim holes.

 

[lucas43]

Do you think I need to do anything to my flange before installing the new toilet? That seems to be a lead sleeve adaptor into my cast iron pipe in the garage. Without wanting to make work for myself. Looking at this makes me want to get some jbweld putty and fix those 3 spots where its a bit short at the bottom of the photo and make it more round for the wax seal to seat better.

Open to people telling me to leave it alone or do something else.

Also looks like I'm missing a couple screws and I'm not sure how the bolts of the toilet are going fit into that flange. I don't see notches like on other flanges.

 

[Reach4]

I assume that is lead splayed out. If that interferes with the slots you want to use, I would clip that to give access for the closet bolts.

 

[Jadnashua]

It would be better if the lead was more evenly lapped over the flange, but if it's not cracked inside, you might get by with a wax ring. In some cases, they soldered the lead to the brass ring which is probably more secure. Can't tell for sure, but the part right at the bottom of the photo doesn't look that great. I've not worked with lead like that, so don't know if that can be repaired easily. An older plumber, maybe more used to working with lead might make quick work of it.

If you have access to things below, you could replace that lead and flange with a new flange and some plastic pipe (note, some places requir3e metal still I hear), or a plumber could replace the lead with new.

 

[lucas43]

Good news is its a 12" rough in

 

[lucas43]

So I got the drake II now - model # CST454CEFG#01

and I got these part numbers for the tank a bowl

TOTO-ST454E#01 Drake II TANK & COVER ONLY COTTON
TOTO-C454CUFG#01 DRAKE II 1G BOWL ONLY COTTON

My question is I did get the 1.28 G model right? its the tank that makes it 1.28 G? and the bowl for the 1G and the 1.28G is the same bowl?

Best I can tell that's what's up and I got the right thing.

 

[Terry]

The 1.28 tank is the E tank.
They both use the same bowl.

 

[lucas43]

So I had a plumber install the toilet he used a jumbo wax ring on the existing flange and said I should change the flange and sleeve when I renovate the bathroom in a few years.

The toilet is great and stays really clean! Really appreciate the advise on that model!

One thing though and in researching it seems to be a common problem is water hammer in the pipes because the fill vales on the totos close really fast. I ordered a sioux chief 660-TK water hammer arrestor that I am going to try. I also tried closing the water inlet valve a bit to slow down the water. That helped quite a bit but the toilet fills really slowly now.

pretty sure the water hammer arrestor is going to do the trick.