ONLY got 44 years out of my WH. Now what - Rheem or Bradford White?

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Rmgolob

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Pilot will not light on my 75 gallon Rheem 29-75-5 from January 1977.

Based on research here, I think these are 2 good options:

Rheem PRO + G75 - 76N RH
https://www.rheem.com/product/profe...r-with-8-year-limited-warranty-pro-g75-76n-rh

Bradford White RG275H6N
https://www.bradfordwhite.com/profe...tmospheric-vent-high-input-gas-water-heaters#

Are they both made is USA?

Advantage / Disadvantage of each?

Others I should consider?

I THINK i can get the Rheem locally for $875?
I'm skeptical. What do I need to do to check it out?

https://www.consumersplumbing.com/s...page=1&co_id=630&item_id=134152&prod_id=12269

Thanks in advance
 

Rmgolob

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Confirming the Rheem is available for $875 within an hour of me.
The supply house down the street and many on line are in the $1200 range.
I'm thinking I should take it and run?
 

Rmgolob

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Assuming the Rheem is a good / best option, should I buy this add on?
 

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Phog

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Those are really big water heaters in both water capacity and btu's. Easily enough for a big family of teenagers.

Your options are more limited now than 1977. There was a change in the laws about water heater efficiency in 2015. Since that time your options for atmospheric vent gas water heaters are basically either 40-50 gallons @ 40,000 btu, or 75+ gallons at 76,000+ btu. Nothing in-between.

Everything in the intermediate range is now power-vent, condensing, etc.
 

Rmgolob

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Thanks phog.

As we were out of hot water, I did purchase the Rheem 75 gallon. Unfortunately its a couple inches larger in diameter than the old one that was a tight squeeze. I had to re work some gas lines.

I also purchased the additional hot water anode to extend the warranty. I'm not sure I care about the length of warranty, but I assume the extra anode is helpful?

I have some questions about the inlet and outlet fittings and will post in a separate thread.
 

Phog

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Extra anode will definitely help extend the lifetime of the unit. The larger dimensions are also part of the 2015 efficiency law changes -- water heaters need to have a lot thicker insulation now than they used to.
 

Sarg

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I also purchased the additional hot water anode to extend the warranty. I'm not sure I care about the length of warranty, but I assume the extra anode is helpful?
They warrant the unit the first year on "parts" and the balance on how long they calculate it will take for the tank to rust out. For the manufacturer it's a lottery.
If you do scheduled maintenance the unit can last decades ... which is not what the makers want ... they'd rather sell you a new one every decade.
Flush the tank yearly and if the unit has a "compression" drain valve ( which the majority do ) .... replace it now. The stock valves do not pass any large sediment and make the flush process futile. Get a 3/4 ball valve drain for $25. that is made for flushing.
And most important ... change the anode rod every three years ..... that is what keeps the tank from rusting from the inside out.
Seems they make the multiple anode rod units for the folks that install and use until it dies.

The added anode on the hot water outlet is $27. ...... the other $117 is for the warranty sticker they put on the tank ..... it is a lottery.

44 years out of a water heater and it was the burner that has issues .... not the tank ........ You must have super water.
 

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jbclem

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"Flush the tank yearly and if the unit has a "compression" drain valve ( which the majority do ) .... replace it now. The stock valves do not pass any large sediment and make the flush process futile. Get a 3/4 ball valve drain for $25. that is made for flushing."

Could you identify the brand and model of the ball valve drain that is made for flushing. I've been looking but haven't found anything that is designated for this. Thanks...
 

Reach4

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jbclem

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"Flush the tank yearly and if the unit has a "compression" drain valve ( which the majority do ) .... replace it now. The stock valves do not pass any large sediment and make the flush process futile. Get a 3/4 ball valve drain for $25. that is made for flushing."

Could you identify the brand and model of the ball valve drain that is made for flushing. I've been looking but haven't found anything that is designated for this. Thanks...

I found it...searching for "3/4 inch full port drain valve" on eBay brings up lots of choices.
 

Rmgolob

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They warrant the unit the first year on "parts" and the balance on how long they calculate it will take for the tank to rust out. For the manufacturer it's a lottery.
If you do scheduled maintenance the unit can last decades ... which is not what the makers want ... they'd rather sell you a new one every decade.
Flush the tank yearly and if the unit has a "compression" drain valve ( which the majority do ) .... replace it now. The stock valves do not pass any large sediment and make the flush process futile. Get a 3/4 ball valve drain for $25. that is made for flushing.
And most important ... change the anode rod every three years ..... that is what keeps the tank from rusting from the inside out.
Seems they make the multiple anode rod units for the folks that install and use until it dies.

The added anode on the hot water outlet is $27. ...... the other $117 is for the warranty sticker they put on the tank ..... it is a lottery.

44 years out of a water heater and it was the burner that has issues .... not the tank ........ You must have super water.

Sarg,
Thanks for the reply last spring.
I agree and think I did right. BUT, I have a major problem.

The hot water smells terrible. I know the normal statement is its smells like rotten eggs (H2S) but I say its more like rotten garbage. Some days unbearable. Showers stink up the whole house.

By simply turning on and off the hot and cold outlets, its definitely only in the hot water.

Do I remove the anode rod? If so, do I just resign to the fact of premature failure?

If I remove the anode, can I simply drain and refill or will I need to sanitize the Heater - If so, how.

Thanks in advance
 

Reach4

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Do I remove the anode rod? If so, do I just resign to the fact of premature failure?
That is one popular option in many areas. A powered anode is the other. I like the Ceranode anode, even tho it costs more, because the electrode is longer.

Removing the anode may be harder than you think.

If I remove the anode, can I simply drain and refill or will I need to sanitize the Heater - If so, how.
Do you have well water? If so, I would sanitize the WH while you are sanitizing the well and plumbing.

Did you sanitize when you installed the WH? I don't know that pulling the anode and putting in a 3/4 brass plug introduces a new need for sanitizing, but I am not sure.
 
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