Main from meter seems to be (3/4) refrigerant line... looking to replace PRV and need help..

[Max Frisbee]

Hey guys, so I was all ready to have a nice little project here at home replacing a very old (65’ manufacture date) PRV with a new one and also fix some funky reducers and extra fittings that are unnecessary just past the PRV.

I came to find out that my 3/4 quick cut doesn’t cut the line that I thought was 3/4. It is a decent amount smaller (not 1/2” though). I called a plumbing friend and he said it was likely refrigerant line. Currently the “refrigerant line” couples down to what looks like 1/2” hard copper with a sweat reducer.

I have all my supplies set up to convert the 1/2” line that was reduced off what I thought was 3/4 copper with a 3/4 ball valve (wirsbo), Watts Aub25 with my male wirsbo adapters and some PEX to take over to the water heater.

what is the simplest solution to still do this? Can I go from 3/4 (or what ever this actually is) refrigerant line to 3/4 hard copper so that I can run all my current supplies I’ve gathered... or would increasing to 3/4 have ill affects since it’s larger diameter than the main. If so I can just return the stuff I have and use the 1/2” hard that is already soldered and reduced from the main.

 

[Max Frisbee]

Here is a shot of what’s here along with a funky double PRV? ‍♂️

 

[Sponsor]

 

[James Henry]

What a mess, somebody obviously used what ever parts they could scrounge. The minimum residential main water line needs to be 3/4", cut back all the way to where it starts at 3/4" and use a 3/4" PRV and ball valve and 3/4" to the water heater.

 

[Max Frisbee]

The sad part is that the refrigerant line to the road is down the side of a mountain and it would be hell to replace. Is there a viable solution to use the (slight less than) 3/4(?) refrigerant line that is stubbed out in the crawl space and connect it 3/4 hard copper or PEX?

 

[Reach4]

The sad part is that the refrigerant line to the road is down the side of a mountain and it would be hell to replace. Is there a viable solution to use the (slight less than) 3/4(?) refrigerant line that is stubbed out in the crawl space and connect it 3/4 hard copper or pex?

I think you should stop using terms like "(slight less than) 3/4(?) refrigerant line " and measure to 0.001 inches. Do you know what you need to measure that?

 

[Max Frisbee]

Thank you, I’m sure that’s terribly obvious but you just gave me an “ahhh ha” moment. Thank you!

 

[Paulypfunk]

Or you could take a string and measure the circumference.

 

[Paulypfunk]

I’m guessing that is 5/8” ID refrigeration tubing with ‘flare’ fittings. Kind of hard to say from the one picture you posted. We use a little swedge tool to make little trumpet flares on the end of the copper which is then compressed onto cone shaped fittings. Pretty obsolete these days but nothing really wrong with it.
We base the size of the pipe that should be in your house based on the number of plumbing fixtures and how much water they use but 3/4” ID is the minimum and has been for a while now. If you replace the PRV I would upsize the pipe downstream of the apparatus, no problem with going bigger.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Whatever the size is its fine to adapt to 3/4 (7/8 od )

 

[Max Frisbee]

Hey.... I’m learning hahah. Finally got around to buying this fancy fella!

that is the outside diameter of the line that I would like to attach to and clean up all the random junk on the main in line... hopefully to 3/4

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

What is the fitting below the PRV at the bottom of the picture? Is that a flare X threads that thread into the PRV? Can you start there with a new threaded ball valve, then install a tee with a boiler drain, then your new PRV then connect to the PEX with something other than the sharkbite?

 

[Reach4]

On that digital caliper, the thing that sticks out the bottom is for measuring depths.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-20121-7-8-x-3-4-OD-ACR-Copper-Coupling

 

[Max Frisbee]

What is the fitting below the PRV at the bottom of the picture? Is that a flare X threads that thread into the PRV? Can you start there with a new threaded ball valve, then install a tee with a boiler drain, then your new PRV then connect to the PEX with something other than the sharkbite?

problem with that is that it comes in on that .76 OD line then reduces down to 1/2” PRV and such. I’ve already secured a new PRV and ball valve 3/4” because I thought it would be a easy swap over since I have access to a Wirsbo tool and such.

 

[Max Frisbee]

On that digital caliper, the thing that sticks out the bottom is for measuring depths.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-20121-7-8-x-3-4-OD-ACR-Copper-Coupling

Brother, thank you! I appreciate you (and everyone else’s help along the way). I also got a new toy out of the deal so can’t complain with that!