Check valve inconsistent operation

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Reach4

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A 4 inch casing does not leave room for a sleeve. You could have the casing scrubbed when the pump is pulled.

The CSV should cut down on debris getting motivated and sucked up since it greatly reduces the high volume surging.
Interesting. Any experience , or have you read discussions, with getting a well scrubbed? Sounds like a good idea. I was thinking of having air blown down from a big engine-driven compressor to remove accumulated sediment, but it would not address the casing walls.

A 3-inch pump could have a sleeve (flow inducer), but if the well is cased and bottom feeding, cooling in a 4 inch casing with no sleeve should be pretty good.

EDIT: maybe you were talking about a liner rather than a flow inducer. Even a 5 inch well is not big enough for a liner, AFAIK.
 

brokensword

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Your 4" iron casing can probably be cleaned up just fine. Use all sch 80 or Sch 120 PVC and the pipe won't rust out next time. No matter how long your pump last, it will last longer when using a Cycle Stop Valve to limit the cycling. The CSV has been used in well systems since 1993. However, many pump guys have not heard of it because the pump manufacturers try to keep it a secret. The CSV is disruptive to the pump industry since it makes pumps last longer and uses smaller pressure tanks. People who make a living selling pumps do not like CSV's. But the CSV is the best thing for the home owner for that reason as well as many others.
cleaned up as in scrubbing, as suggested by LLigetfa? Any idea how expensive/laborious? Also, would you replace the original tank (~30 gallon, I think) or just get the CSV? I looked and they have two models; one in some sort of plastic and one steel; which would you choose? Along with asking about the tank replacement (no issues with it; the well guy looked at it and didn't find anything wrong) should I consider replacing anything else like the pressure switch? I tend to like mechanical things as they last a lot longer than electronic and I can sometimes replace them myself. Also, for a 150' deep well, any recommendations on pump brand and size?
 

brokensword

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Your 4" iron casing can probably be cleaned up just fine. Use all sch 80 or Sch 120 PVC and the pipe won't rust out next time. No matter how long your pump last, it will last longer when using a Cycle Stop Valve to limit the cycling. The CSV has been used in well systems since 1993. However, many pump guys have not heard of it because the pump manufacturers try to keep it a secret. The CSV is disruptive to the pump industry since it makes pumps last longer and uses smaller pressure tanks. People who make a living selling pumps do not like CSV's. But the CSV is the best thing for the home owner for that reason as well as many others.
another follow-up question; I THINK my well is 4" iron--if the well 'head' coming out of the ground is iron, does this mean the whole well is too? I watched the man drill the well (boring after a while, though) and can't recall what type of pipe he was using. In saying that, since I watched and the well digger basically 'pounded' the pipe inch by inch until he struck water, I was wondering how any schedule pvc would take such a beating? For me, hard to imagine it would hold up going that deep with a week's worth of hammering up above. Just curious.
 

Reach4

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f. Also, for a 150' deep well, any recommendations on pump brand and size?
4-inch steel casing? If so, a Grundfos SQ. That is probably what my next pump, if a change becomes necessary, will be. Maybe 10SQ07-200.

If the steel casing is cleaned up enough to insure there are no protrusions, there are "4 inch" pumps that are a little smaller than the average. They may be called streamline or trimline models.

A 3/4 hp 2-wire 7 gpm pump is usually a pretty good choice, but your static water level is another factor (the main factor actually). If your water stays higher, a lesser pump may be the better choice. -- maybe a 1/2 hp 7 gpm. or a 3/4 hp, or a 7 gpm 1 hp or even the cheapest pump of all of the good pumps -- 1/2 hp 10 gpm.
 
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LLigetfa

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is this scrubbing an expensive thing? Any other method to keep debris from getting in, using 4" casing size?
I would expect it to be routine to be sure the new pump doesn't get stuck during the install. If you had slotted/screened casing with a low yield problem then there is a high pressure jetting option that would be an extra cost.
 

LLigetfa

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Interesting. Any experience , or have you read discussions, with getting a well scrubbed?
When I replaced my pump, I ran a heavy steel disk that was a close fit up and down to knock off some of the rust scale and mineral buildup. I didn't really have to do it for clearance since my casing is 6" but it was getting stuck at the water line due to a heavy encrustation of minerals.

I think drillers use something called a surge block that is a close fit to the ID of the casing.
 

Reach4

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another follow-up question; I THINK my well is 4" iron--if the well 'head' coming out of the ground is iron, does this mean the whole well is too? I watched the man drill the well (boring after a while, though) and can't recall what type of pipe he was using. In saying that, since I watched and the well digger basically 'pounded' the pipe inch by inch until he struck water, I was wondering how any schedule pvc would take such a beating? For me, hard to imagine it would hold up going that deep with a week's worth of hammering up above. Just curious.
That would mean steel I expect. Today, drilling wells is more common.

In some areas, it is common to have casing only down to rock. Then the hole continues with no casing, relying on the rock to keep sand etc out. I doubt that is common in Michigan, but it is common in the Southwest from what I have seen.
 

Reach4

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I think drillers use something called a surge block that is a close fit to the ID of the casing.
Sounds worthwhile. I expect we are talking about a very significant adder, but it seems worthwhile ever 50 year or so.
 
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