Please answer for me 2 or 4 wire actuators?

[Nick Kendall]

Hello I am needing to pickup a couple some actuators to have a zone for my garage and a zone for my house Which actuators do I need the 2 or the 4 wire?

 

[Fitter30]

How are you controlling other zones, boiler and pumps? Two wire only opens and closes valve, four wire has a end switch that could turn on a pump or energize a relay.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Nick Kendall]

I have only one pump I was hoping to get it setup the simplest way possible each has loop has its own manifold. I have been trying to read up on them and it looks like I will need a 4 wire I am hoping I can get thermostat to tell actuator to tell boiler to turn on and if both are calling for heat it will open both however the flow will vary depending on weather it is going through one or blurb zones I believe
thanks for answering I very much appreciate it

 

[Nick Kendall]

I am just looking for the easiest way to have two seperate zones I don’t know much so I’m sure I missing something

 

[Fitter30]

Use a four wire zone valve use that set of contacts to power a double pole control relay 24vac. One contact (no) turns pump on the other turns the boiler on thermostat powers valve. Both zones wired the same so either or both will call for boiler. Relay contacts are wired parallel and are both dry contacts n.o. Heres 40va transformer could use a 20 va.
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-JQX-...ontrol+relay+dpdt+24vac&qid=1611539802&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Packard-Cont...c2f85&pd_rd_wg=eZEIv&pd_rd_i=B01HPJT7C0&psc=1

 

[Nick Kendall]

Thanks again so I am buying both of those
Is there a pic or diagram for hooking them up? I struggle with words but can easily follow a picture
Thanks again have a great day

 

[Fitter30]

Just had hand surgery on my writing hand boiler terminals might be labeled w-w

 

[Nick Kendall]

Use a four wire zone valve use that set of contacts to power a double pole control relay 24vac. One contact (no) turns pump on the other turns the boiler on thermostat powers valve. Both zones wired the same so either or both will call for boiler. Relay contacts are wired parallel and are both dry contacts n.o. Heres 40va transformer could use a 20 va.
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-JQX-...ontrol+relay+dpdt+24vac&qid=1611539802&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Packard-Cont...c2f85&pd_rd_wg=eZEIv&pd_rd_i=B01HPJT7C0&psc=1

Thank you so much for your help Your help is greatly appreciated

 

[Nick Kendall]

Just had hand surgery on my writing hand boiler terminals might be labeled w-wView attachment 70240

So fitter30 I greatly appreciate your help. I got. The heat turned on for the first time in my garage And it has run for 4 days it was 10 and now it is up to 60 however it seems to be staying at 60 I am thinking I need to do some adjusting of flow or what would allow me to get it warmer I have my boiler on high and can get temp up I am currently running in at 100 and returning at 60 but it has stated that way for a day or so ?? I have 1200’ of 3/4 pex line in a 1800 square ft garage fully insulated with r 20 4’ down around perimeter and well insulated walls and ceiling as well 18 kw boiler

 

[Nick Kendall]

Just had hand surgery on my writing hand boiler terminals might be labeled w-wView attachment 70240

Well it is back to heating season. I have wood stove this year as well as floor heat and house is already working but now I need to hook together the parts I put them in a box but I couldn’t quite understand the picture Would you still be so kind as to give me some assistance? Happy thanksgiving everyone

 

[Jadnashua]

Probably way too late, but a single loop shouldn't really be much more than 200', at least for 1/2" pex...you MIGHT get by with a longer loop with 3/4". That's to help ensure there's still some heat left as it gets transferred into the slab (or whatever) along the way. Multiple loops could run off of the same pump without problems. It can also help to have the outlet of the boiler first go to the external wall area, as you tend to lose the most heat there. There are limits on how hot you can safely run the water into a slab, but you might be able to raise it a little bit more above 100-degrees. Depending on the amount of heat you need, you can change the spacing of the tubing in the slab...closer will allow more heat and likely a more even floor temperature (that gets moderated by how long it's on and how much insulation you have), and further apart will limit the amount of heat you can pass.

IT can take many days to heat up a slab depending on how thick it is, and if there's any or how much insulation beneath it, and if there's a moisture barrier to try to keep the soil dry underneath. Wet soil will suck more heat into the ground beneath. Radiant heat in a slab does not respond quickly, so setbacks generally don't work unless you've got a lot of time for it to recover or you can turn things back on after a period where you don't need it.

Basically, on a four-wire controller, the thermostat opens the valve of the loop(s) needed, and you use the end switch (the other two leads) to trigger the boiler and/or the pump, depending on how the rest of the system is setup.

 

[Nick Kendall]

Probably way too late, but a single loop shouldn't really be much more than 200', at least for 1/2" pex...you MIGHT get by with a longer loop with 3/4". That's to help ensure there's still some heat left as it gets transferred into the slab (or whatever) along the way. Multiple loops could run off of the same pump without problems. It can also help to have the outlet of the boiler first go to the external wall area, as you tend to lose the most heat there. There are limits on how hot you can safely run the water into a slab, but you might be able to raise it a little bit more above 100-degrees. Depending on the amount of heat you need, you can change the spacing of the tubing in the slab...closer will allow more heat and likely a more even floor temperature (that gets moderated by how long it's on and how much insulation you have), and further apart will limit the amount of heat you can pass.

IT can take many days to heat up a slab depending on how thick it is, and if there's any or how much insulation beneath it, and if there's a moisture barrier to try to keep the soil dry underneath. Wet soil will suck more heat into the ground beneath. Radiant heat in a slab does not respond quickly, so setbacks generally don't work unless you've got a lot of time for it to recover or you can turn things back on after a period where you don't need it.

Basically, on a four-wire controller, the thermostat opens the valve of the loop(s) needed, and you use the end switch (the other two leads) to trigger the boiler and/or the pump, depending on how the rest of the system is setup.[/QUOTE
]
Thanks for reply I have 3/4 pex loops 300’ long I got the heat to work good but I want to be have my garage a separate temp from my house using the same boiler abk

 

[Jadnashua]

The garage would need a separate thermostat to make it fairly easy and its own zone valve.

 

[Nick Kendall]

The garage would need a separate thermostat to make it fairly easy and its own zone valve.

I have a second stat and have actuating valves installed. I just don’t know how to wire it together?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I'm the same with control wiring. I understand it if its in front of me but I can't describe it.