2 Houses, 2 Pressure Tanks, One Well

[masonnjit2]

I have a 3 unit house running with a pressure tank and a deep 2 wire well. I have a garage with an apartment over it that i need to get water to. Right now i have a pressure tank in the new apartment with a 1" line running to the well with a 3 wire cable.

I want to be able to run both the garage/apt and the house on the same well with 2 pressure tanks if possible. how would i go about doing this and where do i make the commections. I am including a sketch of the setup and a picture of the well cover. The picture of the well cover does not show the 1" poly line and wire from the garage/apt.

 

[Reach4]

I want to be able to run both the garage/apt and the house on the same well with 2 pressure tanks if possible.

Why two pressure tanks? That could lead to problems. Any problem co-locating the two pressure tanks?

There will normally be only one pressure switch. That pressure switch will be at a pressure tank.

 

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[Petsaw11]

Why two pressure tanks? That could lead to problems. Any problem co-locating the two pressure tanks?

There will normally be only one pressure switch. That pressure switch will be at a pressure tank.

 

[Petsaw11]

We had a recent project similar to this. A pump Co advised to remove the check valve at the house, install a check valve below the pitiless adapter in the well( in addition to the existing check valve at the submersible pump. A tee would be installed near the well and same size waterline run to the apartment. The drilled well was between the house and the detached barn apartment. The elevations were about the same.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah you do not want multiple pressure tanks. Pressure tanks are only needed to keep the pump from cycling on and off too much. Your water comes from the well and pump, not the pressure tank(s). Having multiple houses on one well will cause extra cycling. You can add extra pressure tanks in the same location to reduce the cycles somewhat, or you can use a Cycle Stop Valve to eliminate the cycling and deliver strong constant pressure to the houses and then you would only need a small pressure tank.

 

[masonnjit2]

I watched the video. Makes sense. A little confused though. How is the csv reducing the flow? Where is the water going when the pump is running and producing 20gpm but the faucet is only calling for 1gpm.

is there an option to add another pump in the well? Would that work using a skinny 2” pump? My plumber suggested that

I guess I could also run the second pressure tank I have inline with the existing tank somehow. Add a little capacity and try and connect the water line to the garage after the 2 tanks.

 

[Reach4]

is there an option to add another pump in the well? Would that work using a skinny 2” pump? My plumber suggested that

They don't make viable 2 inch submersible pumps. They make 3 inch pumps. You might be able to have one higher than the other in the same casing.

I guess I could also run the second pressure tank I have inline with the existing tank somehow. Add a little capacity and try and connect the water line to the garage after the 2 tanks.

Garage water line can connect in parallel before or after the pressure tank, but if there is a CSV, the connection must be after the CSV. It is very common to split off a water line to a different building well before the pressure tank and pressure switch.

 

[Bannerman]

Although the pump may have a potential of moving 5, 7, 10 or even 20 GPM, the CSV will function similar to a partially closed ball valve on the pump outlet to reduce the flow rate.

Because a well pump does not function with positive displacement (ie: piston action) but the impeller moves water by centrifugal action outward against the impeller enclosure and out through the outlet, the pump will then only move the amount of water that can pass through the partially closed outlet. Any remaining additional potential flow capacity will continue to circulate within the impeller and against the enclosure wall. Because even at full RPM, the pump will be moving less water, less 'work' will be performed so the electrical amps consumed will be lower and the pump motor will run cooler.

A CSV will not close fully but will allow a minimum of 1 GPM to pass through which will ensure sufficient water will pass over the pump motor to cool the motor. That 1 GPM will also slowly refill the pressure tank above the CSV set regulated pressure until the pressure switch cut-out pressure is achieved.

Because the pressure tank's purpose is to reduce pump cycling, to achieve the minimum recommended 1-minute pump run time, the minimum tank size required will only need accept 1-gallon water instead of 20-gallons for a pump that delivers 20 GPM without a CSV.

 

[masonnjit2]

How

They don't make viable 2 inch submersible pumps. They make 3 inch pumps. You might be able to have one higher than the other in the same casing.


Garage water line can connect in parallel before or after the pressure tank, but if there is a CSV, the connection must be after the CSV. It is very common to split off a water line to a different building well before the pressure tank and pressure switch.

How does it work with connecting the line before the pressure tank? What would tell the pump to turn on to provide water if it’s connected before the pressure switch and tank. Can you please explain a little. Thank you

 

[Reach4]

How does it work with connecting the line before the pressure tank? What would tell the pump to turn on to provide water if it’s connected before the pressure switch and tank. Can you please explain a little. Thank you

The two buildings see the same pressure, minus a small pressure drop through the 1 inch pipe.

 

[Valveman]

As long as there is no check valve at the tank, the water can go backwards to the first tee until the pump starts. All tees or hydrants need to be after the CSV but they can be before or after the pressure tank/pressure switch.

 

[masonnjit2]

Thanks everyone. I’m going to try this out this week! Ordered the CSV1a and everything else I need

 

[Reach4]

Thanks everyone. I’m going to try this out this week! Ordered the CSV1a and everything else I need

You are going to put that in the well house, I presume.

 

[masonnjit2]

Just spoke to plumber who will be doing the work with me. Hes not a well professional and has never used a CSV. He said theres a check valve before the tank to stop the water from leaving the tank and going back into the well. Currently I do NOT have a pitless. I have a well pit with a 1" hose coming off the top. If I understand correctly would i cut this 1" line. Install a check valve. Then the CSV. Then the Tee to the Garage. Is this correct. I Attached a picture of the well.

 

[Valveman]

There should be a check valve on the pump. Just put the CSV1A in that spot instead of the check valve.

 

[Reach4]

If you want to do this right, you will get the casing extended above ground, and a pitless installed.

The reason is that pits flood. "Well seals" don't seal. You will likely get contaminated water with a pit.

 

[masonnjit2]

Doesnt the Tee for the water service going to the garage need to be after the CSV? I would have to install the CSV at the top of the well and then the tee after that. Do I need a second check valve before the csv at the top of the well? It wont be extended until the spring

 

[Valveman]

Put the CSV first thing out of the well with no extra check valve. Then you can tee as many times and go as many places with water as needed.