TOTO WT153M DuoFit In-Wall Toilet Tank - washlet outlet cap jammed

[PortlandBill]

Any suggestions on backing out the cap on the washlet outlet on a Duo-Fit WT153M in-wall tank?
It is jammed in there pretty good. I tried a 9mm hex wrench, worked out it was probably 3/8-inch but the soft brass is by now stripped. I'm trying to avoid removing and replacing the tank, cement-board, and tiles.

I've ordered a Irwin Extractor set with the reverse thread spiral flutes. I'm hoping I can get that in there and get some counter-clockwise force going.
If anyone has other suggestions, this would be very welcome.

BTW, I brought this on myself by installing the tank without first attempting to unscrew and then insert the cap BEFORE tiling. Don't be like Bill, don't be an idiot!

 

[Terry]

Is this a before picture or an after picture?
I would not have thought to remove it first either.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[PortlandBill]

Is this a before picture or an after picture?
I would not have thought to remove it first either.]

That's exactly my in-wall tank Terry. It's that little outlet on the bottom left. I can't believe how tightly it's sealed up. The thing is it's never been touched; that's how it was delivered.
When I was doing the cement board/tiling (I did this myself) I was thinking I should have had a capped off stem installed just to make sure the outlet remained clear. I would always do that for future installs now that I know this can go wrong.

 

[PortlandBill]

Is this a before picture or an after picture?
I would not have thought to remove it first either.

My photo was before. The hex indentation is too rounded now for an Allen key to engage.

 

[Reach4]

My photo was before. The hex indentation is too rounded now for an Allen key to engage.

How about 10 mm? 10 mm is a common size.

Chamfer on the hex wrench is your enemy. Cheap soft-steel tool is your enemy.

 

[PortlandBill]

It was a 3/8-inch, 10mm would not fit. I think by first using a 9mm which was too small I destroyed the hex socket. (3/8" is ~9.5mm)

In any case the problem is solved. Thanks to $144 splashed out on an Irwin Screw Extractor Kit. It took a 2-foot long socket wrench handle to get the plug to move. That thing was in hard!

There was a bunch of stippling all around the plug and there was a fibrous sealing material - none of this looks like something the rough-in plumber would have done so perhaps it came from Toto like that?

In any case that was a mistake I will never make again. I'll always check that the washlet outlet plug can be removed before putting up cement board and tiling.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Hansgrohe sends out their plugs with the same knurled/stippling on the threads. It probably catches sealant better. I can't imagine why they would put it in so tightly. But its good to know that the plug should be removed first and then tightened enough that mere mortals can remove later.

Reminds me of changing the oil in my vintage VW bus transaxle. One must first loosen the filler plug before loosening the drain plug.. No reason to drain it if you cant fill it back up.

Also, thats an interesting extractor tool. I'm used to the bigger longer ones used for pipe nipples, that will bottom out on the backside of elbows occasionally before they loosen the nipple.

 

[PortlandBill]

All's well that ends well

 

[Terry]

Looks nice.