Cracked ABS at sanitary Tee

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Lost Dog

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Last week I made a post in the Shower & Tub forum about a leaking shower drain. As with all good projects it's gotten larger... Now it's time for the plumbing forum.

While removing the old shower drain I found the 2" ABS leading from the P-trap to the sanitary tee is cracked on the top right at the Tee (I noticed the metal band in the top right of the picture was broken so I believe the flexing from the shower cracked this over time).

lost-dog-06.jpg


The run to the shower p-trap is simple enough however with the crack at the joint of the sanitary tee I'm at a loss. With how close everything is past the tee it looks like I'd need to replace everything and that's beyond my comfort level. Is it time to throw in the towel and call in a professional?

What about making an attempt at reaming it out with something like this:

reed-pipe-reamer-2.jpg


If I could clean out the joint I'd have no issues doing the rest by myself...

Thoughts?
 
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Reach4

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While removing the old shower drain I found the 4" ABS leading from the P-trap to the sanitary tee is cracked on the top right at the Tee (I noticed the metal band in the top right of the picture was broken so I believe the flexing from the shower cracked this over time).
A shower drain is unlikely to be 4 inch ABS.

Are you confident that the pipe is cracked?
 

Lost Dog

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A shower drain is unlikely to be 4 inch ABS.

Are you confident that the pipe is cracked?

You are correct... not sure why I had 4" on the brain. I believe it's 2" (isn't that standard for shower drain?). I'll edit the original post.

Yes, it's cracked. If I pull down a bit on it I can feel the pipe open a bit at the joint.
 

Reach4

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You could get a similar tool made for 2-inch. You may need a close-quarters right-angle drill. https://www.homedepot.com/s/close%20quarters%20drill?NCNI-5 This may be close enough, but maybe not: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-variable-speed-reversible-close-quarters-drill-60610.html it is cheap.

You would use something like a Fernco 3000-22 near that strap. But you would clamp your pipe to minimize stresses.

Regarding shower drain flexing, there might be something you could do about that.
 

Lost Dog

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You could get a similar tool made for 2-inch. You may need a close-quarters right-angle drill. https://www.homedepot.com/s/close%20quarters%20drill?NCNI-5 This may be close enough, but maybe not: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-variable-speed-reversible-close-quarters-drill-60610.html it is cheap.

You would use something like a Fernco 3000-22 near that strap. But you would clamp your pipe to minimize stresses.

Regarding shower drain flexing, there might be something you could do about that.

I was able to get a borescope up around the pipe and did verify a crack right where it meets the tee. I like the idea of the Fernco + a strap to prevent this in the future.

My drill has clearance if I want to make the attempt. Does anyone have experience using a socket saver?

https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-Socket-Saver-Carded/dp/B000HE5E0A

Based on what can be seen in the picture, should I attempt this myself or leave it to a pro? I'm usually willing to attempt things like this but I see that maze of piping behind the tee and realize it could be a nightmare if I ream it out incorrectly.

Thanks!
 

Reach4

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Rambit, Wheeler Rex Pipe Hog, and Reed Clean Ream are other tools with similar function. Try the search box, above near Inbox, for comments.
 
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Helper Dave

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Socket savers are wonderful; you just have to be steady, plumb, and level as you drill out the pipe. If you're confident doing that, and cutting the pipe where it is, I say go for it.

I find, with ABS, that it helps to run your drill on low speed if you have the option, too. ABS melts more than it shreds with socket savers, so the low speed keeps it running smooth.
 
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